wc11

Funny how they don't tell you this at the dealer with brand new zero mile cars

Gofishracing

I always use old pads to bed new rotors.

Austin997.2

Exactly

Petza914

This is the exact process I use, but add a 3rd set of stops from almost stops from 60 or 70 mph, then the cool down drive from my bedding loop is about 3 miles where no braking is required. What probably makes you feel like their warped is that since they weren't bedded properly, you have uneven material transfer on the rotor from the pad material. The pad material to pad material on the rotor relationship is actually what give you that nice initial bite when you apply the brakes. In your case, you have some pad material properly bonded but other places where it's not or there isn't any, so as the rotor turns your getting a grab / release / grab / release effect which feels just like a warped rotor.

The rotors need to be fully cleaned from the current pad material - brake cleaner on a roloc pad on a drill is how I do it (it slings so do it outside with an old shirt on), then sand or file the surface of the brake pads (wear a respirator). The goal here is to get to a fresh layer of pad material that isn't already glazed - doens't take much - you want the shininess gone. Put it all back together and then bed them using the process in jfort's post and you should be good to go. Make sure to use either the OEM pad dampeners or an anti-squeal past on the BACKSIDE of the pad, not the friction surface. This will keep them nice and quiet so you don't get squeal when stopping.




If you need to bleed the ABS actuators and don't have a Durametric, you can just find a road with some loose dirt and do a few panic stops where you feel the pedal pulsing as that's the ABS pump working and will move the fluid through. A new home construction site is usually a good place where the trucks going in and out have left a bunch of dirt in the road.

zoiks

Go to the StopTech website, which evidently is now APCAUTECH.COM. (https://www.apcautotech.com/resource...ry=Whitepapers) Head to RESOURCES and then WHITE PAPERS. At the bottom of the first page are 3 white paper articles that do a good job explaining the bed in procedure. Start with the BED-IN THEORY paper then read through the stock and performance papers. These are pretty good write ups and help you understand the bed-in process. I've followed these guidelines for years and have not had any problems. Good luck!

Edgy01

Like they are suggesting, find a new shop. Better yet, do your brakes yourself if you have the time.

Fortunately for me, my brakes jobs are limited to bleeding the brake calipers and the clutch every two years. I'm still on factory pads at 115,000 miles. (PCCB)

NuttyProfessor

Not trying to add insult to injury, but I've experience two confirmed cases of warped rotors on my cars. And yes, it was from slamming on the brakes. Once on my car and once on my wife's car. My car had just installed brand new factory rotors. Took it up to the mountains and after slamming on the brakes to avoid an accident, I experienced the dreaded car shakiness when applying the brakes. Fortunately, the dealership replaced them under warranty, but confirmed that it was definitely "warped" or more specifically, the surface was NOT even around the circumference of the rotor. The other time was with my wife's large SUV. As in my case, she slammed on the brakes and then after that we started noticing vibration when lightly applying the brakes. The dealership confirmed a warped rotor, but since they're not under warranty, I'll have to pay to replace them. Not a big deal, but yes, frustrating.

Not trying to place blame on anyone here, but I've never heard of a break-in period for brakes, period. hahaha