To stud or not to stud. That is the question.
02-21-2019, 03:23 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
To stud or not to stud. That is the question.
Who has done a stud conversion to their 997 and what brands/sizes have you gone with?
I currently have 7mm spacers in the front and 15mm in the rear but want to go with 15mm in the front as well.
I've never really understood the measurements on these studs and how long to go with.
I don't want the stud/nuts sticking out.
I do plan on tracking the car(2-3 times/year) but not sure if I will invest in another set of wheels.
I probably will though in end. lol
I currently have 7mm spacers in the front and 15mm in the rear but want to go with 15mm in the front as well.
I've never really understood the measurements on these studs and how long to go with.
I don't want the stud/nuts sticking out.
I do plan on tracking the car(2-3 times/year) but not sure if I will invest in another set of wheels.
I probably will though in end. lol
02-21-2019, 05:00 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
Why do you want studs- just use longer bolts? FWIW i transferred my 15MM from the back to the front (replacing the 7MM on the front) Back went to 20MM after i had it lowered on Eibachs.
Noticed more steering wheel vibration/shimmy on the front afterward at 60+mph. Put back the 7MM on the front but paid special attention to making sure torqued correctly, star pattern, mating surfaces were clean and wheel fit on the hub correctly and now very smooth. Wheels were in perfect balance by the way. Point is make sure you pay attention to the reinstall; I may try putting the 15's back on the front again and being more cognizant of the correct install. Or could be the front end just doesn't like the 15MMs. Looks wise, not big difference.
Noticed more steering wheel vibration/shimmy on the front afterward at 60+mph. Put back the 7MM on the front but paid special attention to making sure torqued correctly, star pattern, mating surfaces were clean and wheel fit on the hub correctly and now very smooth. Wheels were in perfect balance by the way. Point is make sure you pay attention to the reinstall; I may try putting the 15's back on the front again and being more cognizant of the correct install. Or could be the front end just doesn't like the 15MMs. Looks wise, not big difference.
02-21-2019, 05:24 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
sigh, dont be that guy. you dont want the track to have to shut down to clean up your parts after a nut sheared off because it wasnt grabbing enough thread...simply because you're going for looks. car show is for looks. be safe on the track. longer studs = better. Look at MSI.
02-21-2019, 06:30 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
sigh, dont be that guy. you dont want the track to have to shut down to clean up your parts after a nut sheared off because it wasnt grabbing enough thread...simply because you're going for looks. car show is for looks. be safe on the track. longer studs = better. Look at MSI.
Why do you want studs- just use longer bolts? FWIW i transferred my 15MM from the back to the front (replacing the 7MM on the front) Back went to 20MM after i had it lowered on Eibachs.
Noticed more steering wheel vibration/shimmy on the front afterward at 60+mph. Put back the 7MM on the front but paid special attention to making sure torqued correctly, star pattern, mating surfaces were clean and wheel fit on the hub correctly and now very smooth. Wheels were in perfect balance by the way. Point is make sure you pay attention to the reinstall; I may try putting the 15's back on the front again and being more cognizant of the correct install. Or could be the front end just doesn't like the 15MMs. Looks wise, not big difference.
Noticed more steering wheel vibration/shimmy on the front afterward at 60+mph. Put back the 7MM on the front but paid special attention to making sure torqued correctly, star pattern, mating surfaces were clean and wheel fit on the hub correctly and now very smooth. Wheels were in perfect balance by the way. Point is make sure you pay attention to the reinstall; I may try putting the 15's back on the front again and being more cognizant of the correct install. Or could be the front end just doesn't like the 15MMs. Looks wise, not big difference.
May consider going 15 front and 20 rear (for daily driving) now that you mention it.... but not at the track.
02-21-2019, 06:52 PM
#5
Who has done a stud conversion to their 997 and what brands/sizes have you gone with?
I currently have 7mm spacers in the front and 15mm in the rear but want to go with 15mm in the front as well.
I've never really understood the measurements on these studs and how long to go with.
I don't want the stud/nuts sticking out.
I do plan on tracking the car(2-3 times/year) but not sure if I will invest in another set of wheels.
I probably will though in end. lol
I currently have 7mm spacers in the front and 15mm in the rear but want to go with 15mm in the front as well.
I've never really understood the measurements on these studs and how long to go with.
I don't want the stud/nuts sticking out.
I do plan on tracking the car(2-3 times/year) but not sure if I will invest in another set of wheels.
I probably will though in end. lol
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02-22-2019, 11:24 AM
#9
Just get extended lug bolts and be done with it. The black oxide coating on the rennline studs and nuts isn't very thick so they start to rust pretty easily. Because they're open back there's the possibility of water getting into the thread interface and rusting further. I haven't found anybody that sells zinc plated R14 lug nuts to mitigate the rust.
If you use an impact wrench it's easy to accidentally loosen a stud without realizing, and checking them is a hassle.
Studs make it easier to mount the wheel, but only marginally, and if you don't take your wheels off very often it hardly matters.
I like having studs, but there's reasons cars aren't sold with open-back black oxide nuts anymore. If you aren't positive that you want them, you probably don't.
If you use an impact wrench it's easy to accidentally loosen a stud without realizing, and checking them is a hassle.
Studs make it easier to mount the wheel, but only marginally, and if you don't take your wheels off very often it hardly matters.
I like having studs, but there's reasons cars aren't sold with open-back black oxide nuts anymore. If you aren't positive that you want them, you probably don't.
02-22-2019, 12:23 PM
#10
Don't want to hijack, but I have recently bought a set of 2007 Turbo OEM wheels to go on my C4S.
I am very interested in doing a stud conversion, but want to also consider spacers while I am converting. Should I go without spacers to maintain OEM performance? I read 7/15mm spacers are most common, but with my WB car and Turbo wheels, what would be best? I am not looking for my car to look 2Fast2Furious, but am curious as to what looks best, without impacting performance.
Thoughts?
I am very interested in doing a stud conversion, but want to also consider spacers while I am converting. Should I go without spacers to maintain OEM performance? I read 7/15mm spacers are most common, but with my WB car and Turbo wheels, what would be best? I am not looking for my car to look 2Fast2Furious, but am curious as to what looks best, without impacting performance.
Thoughts?
02-22-2019, 12:58 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
Look in my build thread. I talk about choices in moving to studs. On mobile or id link the post.
Only do studs if you plan to track the car more than two or three times a year. They are overkill otherwise. go MSI and get Teflon nuts. I read too much about Rennline’s breaking. Could be user error but didn’t want to be the guinea pig.
PSA: Change all studs and nuts every two years or two track seasons assuming 20-30 hrs/yr
Only do studs if you plan to track the car more than two or three times a year. They are overkill otherwise. go MSI and get Teflon nuts. I read too much about Rennline’s breaking. Could be user error but didn’t want to be the guinea pig.
PSA: Change all studs and nuts every two years or two track seasons assuming 20-30 hrs/yr
02-22-2019, 03:10 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
go on Rennline. Read footer on buy page for stud conversion set. Then call them and ask what size for your setup ie spacer size. They recommended I use 60mm front and rear with7mm/15mm spacers. Webpage implies 45mm should be fine especially for fronts, so I'd go 45/60, or 60/60mm if you don't mind the extra little over half inch on fronts.
Studs do make wheel changes easier, especially if you have spacers.
02-27-2019, 09:54 PM
#14
The most important thing that hasn't been mentioned yet (especially for safe use on track), is that every time you run the factory style wheel bolts in and out of the hub, you're using/thinning the threads. Along with stretching the bolts themselves while tightening. Now multiply that over years of use with regular wheel swaps and track maintenance.
I always install studs, which then transfers that wear to a more easily maintained /replaced item. Wheel hubs, or wheel studs... I know which one I would prefer to replace and trust regularly.
I always install studs, which then transfers that wear to a more easily maintained /replaced item. Wheel hubs, or wheel studs... I know which one I would prefer to replace and trust regularly.
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steveP911 (04-18-2022)
03-01-2019, 09:53 PM
#15
Rennlist Member
I installed a set of Apex Competition Systems bullet-nose wheel studs. I went with 80mm in front and 90mm in the rear. I am running 7mm spacers in front and 15mm rear. I run two sets of wheels/tires for summer and winter so having the studs makes it easier to swap the wheels. It's all personal preference. Just make sure you get longer wheel bolts if you are running spacers.