Onwer's Manual - No warmup - Do you read?
02-20-2019, 08:50 PM
#16
Originally Posted by ManoTexas
Remote start for 10-15 min is far better option than I use on rental cars in cold weather. I use the rapid warm up process.
Get in. Start car and floor it and keep close to redline, heater blows warm air within 45-90 seconds. Even if 15 degrees outside. Takes practice to keep near redline, most cars now immeadiately try to drop rpm’s down to idle unless you feather the peddle correctly.
Within 3-4 min windshield warm enough to use washer fluid and wipers to clean off. Roll down/up all but drivers window and de snow/ice. Drive away!
The official term in car manual is RWU. The unofficial term is never buy a rental car coming out of service.
How we do synchronized power slides is another discussion but also reason not to buy rental car.
Get in. Start car and floor it and keep close to redline, heater blows warm air within 45-90 seconds. Even if 15 degrees outside. Takes practice to keep near redline, most cars now immeadiately try to drop rpm’s down to idle unless you feather the peddle correctly.
Within 3-4 min windshield warm enough to use washer fluid and wipers to clean off. Roll down/up all but drivers window and de snow/ice. Drive away!
The official term in car manual is RWU. The unofficial term is never buy a rental car coming out of service.
How we do synchronized power slides is another discussion but also reason not to buy rental car.
02-20-2019, 08:53 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
Could it be that our motors having horizontal pistons makes a difference in the warm up procedure,that is, the fuel has more of an effect in the piston chambers during the idling time as a result ?
02-21-2019, 08:45 PM
#18
For those who don't follow maintenance according to the owners manual, read up on Irv Gordon, a car owner who drove his vehicle over 3 million miles, his advise is dead simple, change things when the manual tell you, use recommended fluids, replace parts with oem, and don't let others drive your car. Even die hard Porsche guys don't always do 1 or more of these things. RIP Irv.
https://www.indystar.com/story/money...volvo/2908911/
https://www.indystar.com/story/money...volvo/2908911/
02-22-2019, 08:51 PM
#19
Advanced
Oh, I have some rent-a-rocket stories!
Had a Nissan Sentra for three weeks in Cape Town once. It was faster than any car on the road back then, and faster than any car I've ever owned.
The smoke! The glorious tire smoke! You could redline it in first, not lift, and smoke the tires all the way through second. And into third if you were lucky.
For those three weeks in 1999 it was indestructible.
Had a Nissan Sentra for three weeks in Cape Town once. It was faster than any car on the road back then, and faster than any car I've ever owned.
The smoke! The glorious tire smoke! You could redline it in first, not lift, and smoke the tires all the way through second. And into third if you were lucky.
For those three weeks in 1999 it was indestructible.
02-22-2019, 09:43 PM
#20
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Remote start for 10-15 min is far better option than I use on rental cars in cold weather. I use the rapid warm up process.
Get in. Start car and floor it and keep close to redline, heater blows warm air within 45-90 seconds. Even if 15 degrees outside. Takes practice to keep near redline, most cars now immeadiately try to drop rpm’s down to idle unless you feather the peddle correctly.
Within 3-4 min windshield warm enough to use washer fluid and wipers to clean off. Roll down/up all but drivers window and de snow/ice. Drive away!
The official term in car manual is RWU. The unofficial term is never buy a rental car coming out of service.
How we do synchronized power slides is another discussion but also reason not to buy rental car.
Get in. Start car and floor it and keep close to redline, heater blows warm air within 45-90 seconds. Even if 15 degrees outside. Takes practice to keep near redline, most cars now immeadiately try to drop rpm’s down to idle unless you feather the peddle correctly.
Within 3-4 min windshield warm enough to use washer fluid and wipers to clean off. Roll down/up all but drivers window and de snow/ice. Drive away!
The official term in car manual is RWU. The unofficial term is never buy a rental car coming out of service.
How we do synchronized power slides is another discussion but also reason not to buy rental car.
__________________
*Coming soon high temperature dust boots and piston seals!
Ohio Clothing
www.ohioperformancesolutions.com
2007 C4S F77 Aerokit / 2004 E46 M3 / 2018 M3 comp
Ohio Clothing
www.ohioperformancesolutions.com
2007 C4S F77 Aerokit / 2004 E46 M3 / 2018 M3 comp
02-26-2019, 06:52 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
I stick to the manual regarding start. Drive it direct, as little Idle as possible and then calm drive. But, i change oil every 5000 km not according to the manual.
02-27-2019, 04:28 PM
#22
In the winter time it is safer for me to let it idle until I can see through the frost on the windows vs driving blind.
I agree with what else was mentioned, the no idle statements are all related to emissions. Nothing to do with it being detrimental to the engine. Think about it, if idle was an issue, we would see failures for people stuck in traffic 30+mins every day.
I agree with what else was mentioned, the no idle statements are all related to emissions. Nothing to do with it being detrimental to the engine. Think about it, if idle was an issue, we would see failures for people stuck in traffic 30+mins every day.
02-27-2019, 04:35 PM
#23
Former Vendor
In the winter time it is safer for me to let it idle until I can see through the frost on the windows vs driving blind.
I agree with what else was mentioned, the no idle statements are all related to emissions. Nothing to do with it being detrimental to the engine. Think about it, if idle was an issue, we would see failures for people stuck in traffic 30+mins every day.
I agree with what else was mentioned, the no idle statements are all related to emissions. Nothing to do with it being detrimental to the engine. Think about it, if idle was an issue, we would see failures for people stuck in traffic 30+mins every day.
If you sit in traffic for 30 minutes the engine is at temperature, it is not stuck on “cold start” or “just started” fuel maps.
These two fuel maps advance ignition timing, change valve timing, and change enrichment, all to light off the catalyst process for better emissions.
As a byproduct of this process the additional (unburned) fuel enters the engine and acts as a solvent.
The issue with startup and immediate idle is the engine warms too slowly, and stays on fuel enrichment too long.
Idle speed beyond these two fueling profiles isn’t part of the equation.
02-27-2019, 05:21 PM
#24
Three Wheelin'
In the winter time it is safer for me to let it idle until I can see through the frost on the windows vs driving blind.
I agree with what else was mentioned, the no idle statements are all related to emissions. Nothing to do with it being detrimental to the engine. Think about it, if idle was an issue, we would see failures for people stuck in traffic 30+mins every day.
I agree with what else was mentioned, the no idle statements are all related to emissions. Nothing to do with it being detrimental to the engine. Think about it, if idle was an issue, we would see failures for people stuck in traffic 30+mins every day.
Incorrect.
If you sit in traffic for 30 minutes the engine is at temperature, it is not stuck on “cold start” or “just started” fuel maps.
These two fuel maps advance ignition timing, change valve timing, and change enrichment, all to light off the catalyst process for better emissions.
As a byproduct of this process the additional (unburned) fuel enters the engine and acts as a solvent.
The issue with startup and immediate idle is the engine warms too slowly, and stays on fuel enrichment too long.
Idle speed beyond these two fueling profiles isn’t part of the equation.
So what do you do in Qwksnke's case? Ace Ventura it?
02-27-2019, 07:28 PM
#25
Advanced
+1
MY MECHANIC SAID IDLING IS WHAT HELPED THE EARLY CARS BLOW THE IMS...I LET THE REVS DROP THEN DRIVE EASY UNTIL THAT OIL TEMP GAUGE IS AT NORMAL RANGE....3500 IS MY MAX UNTIL THEN AS WELL...OH! I CHANGE OIL EVERY 5K...
MY MECHANIC SAID IDLING IS WHAT HELPED THE EARLY CARS BLOW THE IMS...I LET THE REVS DROP THEN DRIVE EASY UNTIL THAT OIL TEMP GAUGE IS AT NORMAL RANGE....3500 IS MY MAX UNTIL THEN AS WELL...OH! I CHANGE OIL EVERY 5K...
02-27-2019, 08:09 PM
#26
Incorrect.
If you sit in traffic for 30 minutes the engine is at temperature, it is not stuck on “cold start” or “just started” fuel maps.
These two fuel maps advance ignition timing, change valve timing, and change enrichment, all to light off the catalyst process for better emissions.
As a byproduct of this process the additional (unburned) fuel enters the engine and acts as a solvent.
The issue with startup and immediate idle is the engine warms too slowly, and stays on fuel enrichment too long.
Idle speed beyond these two fueling profiles isn’t part of the equation.
I'll admit, its been several years since I have done EEC tuning but on the EECs I fooled with, the preset fuel enrichment tables were only used until the 02s were heated up and operating properly (open loop condition ,120 seconds max). After that the 02s and MAF worked in harmony to control the proper air/fuel mixture
02-28-2019, 01:57 PM
#27
Drifting
In addition to the start-up enrichment, the primary reason not to idle to warm up is that it takes significantly longer for the coolant and (especially) the oil temps to reach operating temperature at 700-800 rpm than it does at 2000-3000 rpm while driving at moderate speeds and variable rpms. The latter method is the best way to reach operating temperature.
Since the majority of engine wear is due to friction that occurs at start up and before warm-up, anything you can do to optimize warm-up time while minimizing friction is good for the car.
I used to listen to Car Talk on NPR and I vaguely remember Tom and Ray saying that each start-up of a car wears the moving parts in the engine in an amount roughly equivalent to 30 minutes of warmed-up highway driving.
Since the majority of engine wear is due to friction that occurs at start up and before warm-up, anything you can do to optimize warm-up time while minimizing friction is good for the car.
I used to listen to Car Talk on NPR and I vaguely remember Tom and Ray saying that each start-up of a car wears the moving parts in the engine in an amount roughly equivalent to 30 minutes of warmed-up highway driving.
04-16-2019, 04:10 PM
#28
I am going to pull a grammar police move here. I just want to point out that the section of the Owner's manual referred to by the OP is regarding failing to start after 10 - 15 seconds of cranking. It is a remedial step; not an operating step. The colon and subsequent bullet marks are key. I bet it is to get the RPMs up to recharge the battery for a subsequent start and nothing to do with musing going on in this thread. I bet Porsche doesn't want you to idle the car after a long crank because the battery will not be adequately recharged, potentially leaving you stranded with a dead battery if you shut the car down without driving it. By indicating the car needs to warm up, they are implying you need to drive it.
Alternatively, Porsche could also be thinking that warming it up by driving could also clear whatever was causing the long crank to begin with.
Or another alternative is that whatever caused the long crank could be identified by the on-board sensors with the engine at operating temp at a higher RPM.
Alternatively, Porsche could also be thinking that warming it up by driving could also clear whatever was causing the long crank to begin with.
Or another alternative is that whatever caused the long crank could be identified by the on-board sensors with the engine at operating temp at a higher RPM.
Last edited by JWILLI; 04-16-2019 at 04:27 PM.