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I have no idea. Without an engine coolant sensor, I'm loathe to romp on it. For all I know, the thermostat's stuck closed and a couple of good pulls is all it'd take to overheat the engine. Besides, I promised my wife I WOULDN'T get speeding tickets!
The good news about the electrical is that it all belonged to one aftermarket accessory. I'm missing the screws that hold the fusebox to the kick panel, but all those wires are gone now. All of the fuses that're in there are un-popped. From what I can see, the only missing fuse is B-8, which, from my research, has to do with the PDK... I've got a stick, and an '08 wouldn't have PDK anyway.
I discovered that my wheels have spacers on them. I'm not really a spacer fan, but they're easy enough to remove, I'm sure.
-rear H&R 3095716 15mm
-front H&R 1495716 7mm
I'm not really a big fan of the TechArt side skirts either. It looks like when they put them on, they only used one screw - in the rear wheel well. So that should (hopefully) be another easy removal with minimal damage.
The good news about the electrical is that it all belonged to one aftermarket accessory. I'm missing the screws that hold the fusebox to the kick panel, but all those wires are gone now. All of the fuses that're in there are un-popped. From what I can see, the only missing fuse is B-8, which, from my research, has to do with the PDK... I've got a stick, and an '08 wouldn't have PDK anyway.
Sell the remotetop accessory. Could easily get $150.
Sorry to hear about your troubles. Keeping the car or returning it? Did mechanic at car lot do the PPI or was it a different person?
Hoping to keep the car. Every old car is going to have SOME sort of troubles. As long as I know what they are, I can gradually fix them myself. I'm set up for anything short of an engine-out, and I'd love an excuse to buy a lift for my garage.
I picked the car up against the repair shop guy's wishes because I had some errands to run today. I get to drop it back off to be finished tomorrow @ 0730. He still has to ohm out the coolant sensor and test the cruise control. Then he can start writing up the repair estimate. From what the guy told me so far, it's not gonna be cheap! I'm crossing my fingers that the dealership will do right by me.
edit: Remembered some more about what the repair shop guy said. The motor for the driver's seat is stripped. The rear wing is leaking hydraulic fluid. The guy can turn on the fog lights via his diagnostic tool, but the computer in the car instantly shuts them back off.
Last edited by TeeJayHoward; 02-26-2019 at 09:39 PM.
So sorry to hear about all the troubles. It sounded like it was a big and exciting leap for you to enter the 911 Turbo world, it's a shame it's not going more smoothly, and I know electrical issues can be some of the most stressful to sort out. Hopefully you at least got a solid deal on the car to help make up for all the shortcomings.
I'm withholding certain information until I find out how the dealer is going to handle all this. As for the deal? I don't think it was too bad. It was appropriate for a higher-mileage car, but not amazing or anything.
Took the car back in to the repair shop so the guy could finish up his work. What a day for the fog lights to not work!
Got the estimate and got home just in time for the dealership to close. The estimated repair cost?
$9398.28
That's not a small sum. And I noticed on the drive home that under full lock the front wheels rub. I hate spacers. 7mm on stock wheels and correctly-sized tires and the freaking things are rubbing.
Dealer has yet to refund my deposit. Bit grumpy about that, but it could be the bank's fault and not the dealership. The $9.3K would fix:
1) Engine coolant temperature sensor
2) Rear wing leaking hydraulics
3) License plate bulb
4) TPMS sensors (all four dead)
5) Driver's seat motor gears
6) Fog lamps
It would NOT fix:
1) Tail lights
2) Passenger door microswitch
3) Center console
4) Missing valve stem caps
5) Old cracked low-tread loud mismatched tires
On a side note, I drove it to my Mother-In-Law's house tonight. On the way, I tried the PASM switch. Holy moly. It ACTUALLY MAKES A DIFFERENCE! My SS had three different suspension settings and I couldn't tell the difference at all. This thing is a whole new animal with the button lit up. I thought it was a gimmick. Nope. I'm impressed. I mean, I still prefer it with PASM on normal because road conditions, but... Wow.
If it were me, and I was stuck with the car (and was not getting any "help" from the dealer, I would:
1st List:
1) DIY, have not done before, but procedure is listed on 6speed, $25 part.. (assumes it is JUST the sensor and not the wiring harness)
2) DIY, send the cylinders to kevin to have rebuilt, keep stock function.
3) Is this just a bulb? Seems too easy..
4) Get done when you get all 4 tires done (5 on your bottom list)
5) Let shop fix
6) Let shop fix
2nd List:
1) Buy used pair of OEM and swap in
2) DIY - not a bad repair to pull the door panel off and replace switch
3) DIY - I've done many of these, buy a used stock one online or upgrade to a bumperplugs painted one.
4) DIY - find some on ebay
5) See # 4 above.
If the dealer would cut you a 9K check, you could get all this stuff done if you were to DIY some of it as above..
Sorry your car is in such neglected state.. certainly not a good way to start a 997TT (or any Porsche for that matter) ownership experience..
What's the breakdown on that estimate, by the way? $9.3k seems excessive for what's on your list. I know you said they've spent 11 hours on the coolant sensor, but just from my experience, a good indy can drop the entire engine to get to it in 5-6 hours. The rear wing hydraulics can be replaced with Ultimate Motorworks' rebuild kit for a few hundred bucks and not a ton of labor. License plate bulb and TPMS are trivially easily and parts aren't expensive. The driver's seat motor gears may be a bit of a hassle from a labor perspective but you could also find a replacement seat for $700. Fog lamp replacements shouldn't be too expensive, assuming that fixes that issue and they don't have to redo all the wiring.
FOr the life of me I cant think of why someone would put a center console from a cab into a coupe.. Unless the original one was trashed and the cab one was lying around or the "cheapest" one could find..
And then this:
I ripped out the extra wiring, only to discover a "M4C-RK997". A dohickey that lets you control your convertible top with your key. I did not buy a Cab. WTF.
I would have already contacted an attorney. There is no excuse for that many issues to be missed on a PPI. I am skeptical that they even looked at the car at all.
Seems like there is more to this car's history with these parts. Where did the car come from? Maybe some type of unreported not shown in carfax flood damage and they replaced everything with parts from a cab? Just speculating here.
02-26-2019, 12:21 AM
