Check engine light, visit workshop
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Check engine light, visit workshop
Light came on as I was sitting in a bank drive through and noticed that the engine started running a litte rough. Not bad but noticeable. Drove the short distance home, shut the car down, cranked it back up and everything was back to normal. Any ideas?
#3
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You hit 60,000 miles right - there's your problem LOL
You'll need to pull the codes to see what they say. If multiple misfires on one bank could be the hall sensor (camshaft position sensor) starting to go bad. If all on one cylinder, then plug or coilpack,
You'll need to pull the codes to see what they say. If multiple misfires on one bank could be the hall sensor (camshaft position sensor) starting to go bad. If all on one cylinder, then plug or coilpack,
#4
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
When a coil went on my Boxster, the engine shook, car shook, ran rough. I shut it down, started up and all was fine. It was a bad coil. But.... gotta read the codes.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
Peace
Bruce in Philly
#5
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Told you...
Seems to be leaning that way. Wonder if a bad coil is covered by Fidelity Platinum or considered a wear and tear item like a spark plug. With a $250 deductible, basically a non issue though. Never had to replace a coil on any of my three 997's but I don't think they're expensive items.
#6
Rennlist Member
I had thoughts in that direction too. Light came on again today along with the same slightly rough running engine. Shut it down, started it up and back to normal just like yesterday. Trying to get an appointment with the dealer to sort this out.
Told you...
Seems to be leaning that way. Wonder if a bad coil is covered by Fidelity Platinum or considered a wear and tear item like a spark plug. With a $250 deductible, basically a non issue though. Never had to replace a coil on any of my three 997's but I don't think they're expensive items.
Told you...
Seems to be leaning that way. Wonder if a bad coil is covered by Fidelity Platinum or considered a wear and tear item like a spark plug. With a $250 deductible, basically a non issue though. Never had to replace a coil on any of my three 997's but I don't think they're expensive items.
https://www.suncoastparts.com/produc...91G3COILS.html
#7
Rennlist Member
Each time I read the policy exclusions, I seem to pick up on something new.. "exhaust system & cats" are not covered..
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#8
Rennlist Member
Dealer will charge you 250 min just to diagnose.
Go to any autoparts store and pull codes.
Coils and sparky ease to R&R. Fuel injectors can have this symptom also.
Post codes when you learn them.
Go to any autoparts store and pull codes.
Coils and sparky ease to R&R. Fuel injectors can have this symptom also.
Post codes when you learn them.
#9
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
If you end up needing to replace 1 coil, I'd change them all since the others probably aren't far behind and because you've never changed them.
#10
Rennlist Member
#12
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Not expensive - maybe $300 for a complete set of 6 - labor will be much more.
https://www.suncoastparts.com/produc...91G3COILS.html
https://www.suncoastparts.com/produc...91G3COILS.html
Good advice and that's the plan. Drove the car about 30 miles today around the city making multiple stops here and there. No problems. Light never came on again but I'm sure it's just a matter of time. Is any damage done driving the car to the dealer with the CEL on and the slightly rough running engine?
#13
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Good advice and that's the plan. Drove the car about 30 miles today around the city making multiple stops here and there. No problems. Light never came on again but I'm sure it's just a matter of time. Is any damage done driving the car to the dealer with the CEL on and the slightly rough running engine?
#14
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
If you're logging misfires, that means there's fuel being put into the cylinder that's not being ignited, so yea, not the best situation. As we all know fuel isn't a very good lubricant and if you're injecting it into the cylinder without it being ignited, it's mixing with the oil. I would say if it's running like it is now - smooth without any codes, that's the time to take it in rather than to try and limp it there with the CEL on and one cylinder not firing.