bgoetz

kisik

This has been discussed a lot and not a subject of this tread. This is my way based on my last 8 years of track experience, risk tolerance, and knowing car frame metallurgy.

bgoetz

shekmark

GO CLEMSON !! Whoo whoo ( sorry, had to do it)

Petza914

Totally understandable 🐾

🙂

Para82

Owned and tracked a Shelby GT350 - epic driving experience - most unreliable car i've ever owned - had to dump it. I would recommend a C7 GrandSport instead - world class and bulletproof.

pghpp70

Hella-Buggin'

I can tell you that the power difference between an S and Non S is basically nothing on the rack. I have a good friend with an 08 Non S car and on the straights I can maybe make up
a few feet over a 1/4 mile straight. The main advantage to the S is the brakes. The S Calipers allow you to easily change pads because they're top loaders with a spring clip.
I believe you need to remove the caliper on the standard cars. That only matters when yu get to the point that you need track pads and street pads. I'm lasy so I just leave the track pads in.
Much to my wife's embarrassment as they squeal like a mad banshee on the street. The PASM is nice to be able to click the button and firm up the ride on the track but there's other ways to have a nice suspension.

3Series

2-3 track days is not a lot. How experienced are you? Will you be swapping pads and wheels/tires? Pushing the car?

If you are going to track with stock brakes and street tires, 2-3 times a year, go with any 997. .1 to save some cash or .2 well because it's newer with some improvements.
If you are going to track double digits each year, upgrade pads, tires etc...go with a 997.2 for reliability.

Either way, it's a win win.

Appraiser

Pad changes are the same one non-S and S cars if we're talking 997.1 different story on the the 997.2 which need to be removed to get to the pads. My understanding is the S cars had the 996 4S calipers front and rear. I think the non-S car was a smaller version specifically made for the 997 series unless it was part shared from elsewhere. I recently read a review (C/D?) where they tested a 911 S and base vs a bunch of other cars; turns out the non-S car stopped 3 feet shorter with the smaller brakes than the S car equipped with same wheels and tires, but I imagine the S brakes will hold up to repeated use much better.

OP - I was in a similar position, did it for 3 years. I'm a non-S car. The chassis and power are great and the car was/is comfortable for 1,000+ mile road trips. Did one a few months ago ending at Laguna Seca for an HPDE. Now it'll see 10 autocrosses this year.

Favorite mods so far; Motul RBF600, front GT3 brake ducts, GT3 rear sway bar, louder muffler, extended pedals and a 3rd radiator. I agree on the baffled oil-pan; haven't done it yet, will be doing it very soon with the extended sump plate to get a little extra capacity.

Petza makes a great suggestion, if you go with a PASM equipped car get the DSC module, everyone swears by it. I think the car rides pretty good as-is with the standard Bilstein's and I like a little bit of ground clearance over the gators and driving on any public road with, uhh, less than ideal conditions. Would rather give up an inch or two of height to avoid the debris or scrape body but different folks, different strokes.

My only gripe with the metal spin on oil filter is it'll be a pain in the butt to cut it open to see if you have bigger problems [shavings!]. Unless there's some sort of workaround to that?

These cars are great do-it-all. They certainly have downfalls; no fully defeatable stability management, high(er) running costs, Porsche tax on parts, and although I see it as the whole reason for the car but the driving style is an acquired taste for some. Once you're comfortable hustling it, doesn't matter if the PSM is on or off - you have an off or get that rear to swing it can be problem-city. Keep the car on the backfeet throughout and carry momentum like nobody's business is EYE opening and incredibly rewarding. I found it much more addictive/satisfying than a Miata or Mini Cooper on track. The motor has no problem playing and the chassis is competent over triple digits. Which is both good and bad - great because well, it's FAST, even without the GT3 goodies and badge, bad because, well, damn it, it's FAST. After 3 years, quicker speeds and a recent first born child I've become sketchy to it with only the three point and helmet to keep me in once piece and frame of mind: now it's time for a race car. But over the three years I kept trying to find something else to make a lateral move into but at $30,000 just for the sake of trying something different but these are hard to beat value sport cars. And I'll play devil's advocate to that; there are several track-day specials out right now which are superb at around $35,000 mark including the Camaro V6 1LE, Mustang Performance Pack, Civic Type R, Subaru BRZ tS or a slightly used C6 Grand Sport although this sucker is quick, too. And a bit further up the food chain; BMW M2 Competition, Corvette Grand Sport and Shelby GT350.

Petza914

I use this Longacre oil filter cutter -

Filter goes on with the open gasket side against the plate. Turn the screw handle until the rotary blade makes contact, then turn as you incrementally tighten like you're using a pipe cutter. The filter rolls in the bearings at the other end while the rotary cutter works it's way through the canister.