Tracking the 997
12-16-2018, 01:40 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
Oh and I forgot. Tires will get really hot. Before you go out drop rears to about 30psi and fronts down to 25 rears. Right when you get off the track take the psi reading. Hot you should be running street performance tires at a max of 33/39 front/rear. Cup tires you will run about 30/30 front rear. If you don’t the tires will be really greasy (slippery).
This kind of depends on how hard you drive and the tires. You will most likely need to air down buy be careful because some tires don't have stuff enough sidewalls to support a turn without rolling the sidewalls on the first couple of laps. You need to just eek air out as needed until you know what your tires will do and if you need to do a few warm up laps before pushing it .
12-16-2018, 08:49 PM
#32
Three Wheelin'
So I am in the same boat as the OP. I drive a base 997.2 and need to replace brakes and rotors as they all are near the end of their lives. This is my daily driver too. I am leaning towards Hawk Ceramic pads and DBA rotors. Any other suggestions in pads or rotors? I am already running RBF600 fluid. Thanks.
12-17-2018, 01:08 AM
#33
Rennlist Member
I have been using Sebro Slotted rotors. They're reasonably priced and reasonably durable. Priced about the same as OE and last a bit longer. Or you could drop bigger coin on GiroDiscs, or RaceBrakes, stopTech ect. For pads, I'm digging the PFC08's. There's lots of choices and some trial and error may be needed to find what works for your needs.
12-17-2018, 09:36 AM
#34
Three Wheelin'
Thanks Hella. I will look into those too. I have zero friends or even acquaintances who track their cars. I grew up in Detroit racing strip cars, which is very different.
12-17-2018, 10:45 AM
#35
Rennlist Member
That'll change. I've made some great friends at the track.
12-17-2018, 02:25 PM
#36
Three Wheelin'
I have been using Sebro Slotted rotors. They're reasonably priced and reasonably durable. Priced about the same as OE and last a bit longer. Or you could drop bigger coin on GiroDiscs, or RaceBrakes, stopTech ect. For pads, I'm digging the PFC08's. There's lots of choices and some trial and error may be needed to find what works for your needs.
I run PFC 08 but I run ATE cross drilled because I purchased them from FCP Euro and have been using there lifetime replacement program. The 08's are hard on rotors but since i change rotors myself, it's not a big deal and the cost is right.
As a new driver, stick with Textar's or something like that. If the bug hits, you'll be on racing pads in no time. Everything in-between is a waste of money.
12-17-2018, 04:18 PM
#37
I'm gonna bring up a dead horse topic and get folks take on it - underdrive pulleys.
Pro-
Outfits like Pedro's Garage, LN Engineering, Mantis Sport, etc. all seem to support a smaller 4" size underdrive pulley and the PCA spec 996 class has it as an approved mod. I don't see these shops or organizations pushing much snake oil nor would I see them being in a successful business to push harmful products. That being said; there's plenty of UD pulley's that have failed from a variety of retailers. So I would venture to say do NOT get a lightweight one - it's the size that matters. I believe the Mantis Sport unit is even heavier than the factory unit while being smaller!
This thread got me thinking about things before the 2019 season. Still plenty to do like baffled deep sump oil pan, rear brake ducts, top mounts, etc. and I've never had an issue with the PS fluid, pump or otherwise but I haven't had an issue with oil starvation (as far as I know) either, doesn't mean it isn't a good idea to get ahead of it before it becomes a problem. So maybe it's a good preventative 'mod' to add to the list.
Pro-
- prevents the power steering pump from overheating and/or destroying lines
- frees up a few (4) horsepower in the mid-range due less accessory driven parasitic loss
- could theoretically be lighter; resulting in faster revving
- theoretically prevents cavitation from the water pump impeller
- proven to have the alternator charge less when under 2,000 rpms
- possibly slows down the coolant movement/volume over the same period of time (arguably extra dwell time in the radiator then, too)
- poorly made units can crack
- possibility of an imbalanced component hanging off and spinning from the engine (3.8l motor issue only?)
Outfits like Pedro's Garage, LN Engineering, Mantis Sport, etc. all seem to support a smaller 4" size underdrive pulley and the PCA spec 996 class has it as an approved mod. I don't see these shops or organizations pushing much snake oil nor would I see them being in a successful business to push harmful products. That being said; there's plenty of UD pulley's that have failed from a variety of retailers. So I would venture to say do NOT get a lightweight one - it's the size that matters. I believe the Mantis Sport unit is even heavier than the factory unit while being smaller!
This thread got me thinking about things before the 2019 season. Still plenty to do like baffled deep sump oil pan, rear brake ducts, top mounts, etc. and I've never had an issue with the PS fluid, pump or otherwise but I haven't had an issue with oil starvation (as far as I know) either, doesn't mean it isn't a good idea to get ahead of it before it becomes a problem. So maybe it's a good preventative 'mod' to add to the list.
12-17-2018, 07:51 PM
#38
Pro
Appraiser. Let me know about what u find out about the deeper baffled oil pan. I had my dealer order the X51 pan but when they got it and tried to put it in it didn’t fit. They were surprised actually. I am wondering if the later build 997.1s had an adjustment to alleviate this problem? Similar to the IMS issue which was resolved on the last 05s and up. I’ll start looking into the underdrive pulley.
12-17-2018, 08:09 PM
#39
Registered User
Pulley
The orginal overdrive Mantissport pulley will not crack, its billet. Proto type from 2006 is still being used. Deep Sump , Mantissport deep sump fits.
12-18-2018, 10:02 PM
#40
Racer
I just tracked my 997.2 for the first time with the POC at the streets of willow.
Just make sure your car is solid, you could take it to a shop and have it tech inspected.
Tell them you want to do a track day.
I took to the track the following.
Torque Wrench for my rims
A quart of oil
Mothers racing rubber remover, it easily removes all that melted tire rubber from the session
Glass cleaner
Paper towels
Blue Painters tape to coverup the headlights and put a number on your hood and doors
Folding chair
Ice chest
A lot of liquid, stay hydrated
munchies
I took a razor scooter to get around the pits
Get a small plastic bin that will fit in the frunk and that will be your track box
Driving gloves, I get sweaty and you don’t want a slippery steering wheel
have fun
mike