What is the proper method to diagnose a failed CV joint?
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
What is the proper method to diagnose a failed CV joint?
I have an increasingly noisy clicking up front on my Carrera 4. It began as clicking up front when making very tight turns to the right. I began researching it. Anecdotal evidence suggested that higher mileage 911s need CVs replaced eventually/often and that AWD cars have inherent noises in the front differential when making tight turns. I mentally made notes and kept an ear out for any increases in noise. Things stayed calm it seems until I lowered my car and increased the stiffness of ride. Add to that really terrible roads. A pronounced clicking emerged at highway speeds. I examined the car and found a badly cracked belly pan up front was likely flapping with greater air pressures hitting it on the highway. I replaced he belly pan. Noise reduced greatly. After a while it came back, but softer. It’s still there at 60mph +. It’s intermittently making the clicking noise at lower speeds, usually only on bad/rough roads. Some days nothing, some days clicking. When I bought the car in 2015 the CV boots were replaced. When I added my suspension this year I inspected everything closely, and there was no slung grease, tears in boots up front etc. The passenger side up front is the source of the noise I think, but how can a make certain before throwing parts and sweat at it? The conditions that produce the noise vary, and at this point I’ve perhaps confused myself! Any CV pros out there.....?
#2
Burning Brakes
Clicking when turning or accelerating, or inducing any unusual load, is a sign of CV joint failure. Don't keep driving until it seizes or breaks.
#3
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Find a parking lot and make some low-speed, tight left turns - that's when the load on the passenger side CV joint will be greatest. If it's bad, that will surely induce the clicking and popping sound. If it doesn't, you may need to look at your suspension top mounts, verify the springs are seated properly, etc
Do some right turns too. Sometimes sound transfers in the car and it seems like it's coming from a different place.
If it pops backing up when cold and the wheel is turned far to one side, that's completely normal and a byproduct of the front suspension geometry, called the Ackerman effect.
Do some right turns too. Sometimes sound transfers in the car and it seems like it's coming from a different place.
If it pops backing up when cold and the wheel is turned far to one side, that's completely normal and a byproduct of the front suspension geometry, called the Ackerman effect.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Never noisy when backing up, just tight right turns. On the highway the clicking seems to be front right.....
#6
Yes, I believe that it is unanimous. When constant velocity joints wear out they make a clicking noise due to the increased clearances. I believe that "clicking" is the first indicator of worn joints. I would not want to wait for the next indicator.
#7
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Bad clicking when making tight right handed turns. Left hand turns only a very slight click.
Probably very soon I’ll be swapping both front axles simultaneously to go back to factory springs. One is dead then the other can’t be far behind.
Question is which end of the CV has failed. Inner or outer? Inners are replaceable and liters are not. Might save me a bunch of cash if just an inner has failed. Something tells me outer drivers side is the culprit. 117k mi is a good service life for front CVs.
Probably very soon I’ll be swapping both front axles simultaneously to go back to factory springs. One is dead then the other can’t be far behind.
Question is which end of the CV has failed. Inner or outer? Inners are replaceable and liters are not. Might save me a bunch of cash if just an inner has failed. Something tells me outer drivers side is the culprit. 117k mi is a good service life for front CVs.
Last edited by ALEV8; 11-21-2018 at 03:05 PM.