Zoefhaus

Hello all,

I read a ton of posts on the right way to jack up a 997, and gave it a try yesterday (need to get some curb rash on the rims fixed).
Aim was to jack up the rear only.
I am not sure about these two things though:

1.
I know I am not supposed to use any parts of the engine as jacking points, but rather use the suspension.
The issue is that I am not 100% sure on the right location though.
Below a picture from yesterday's "trial run".
Is this the right location for the jack?
On the pictures I found on the web, seems like more people are using the red circled area instead?


2.
I also read a lot about the need to put a hockey puck on top of the jack stand.
I actually only used the hockey puck with the jack, not with the stand (see picture below).
Using the hockey puck with the stand would mean the car would need to be jacked significantly higher.
Any harm in the "metal-on-metal" approach? It seemed pretty solid to me.



Thanks!

platinum997

Outside of the 4 jack locations at the rocker panels there are a couple areas.

Good article on pelican that may help.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...p_Your_Car.htm

Zoefhaus

Thanks, saw that one before, but now had a better look at the pictures.Looks like we have 3 different jack locations at the rear now Which one is the best / safest?Or are they all ok, and I simply worry too much?

And, for good measure, the unedited picture I borrowed from the internet:

matt997

I've been jacking the rear of the car where the lower control arm meets the rear subframe. I use a thick piece of rubber between the metals. To achieve this I first jack from the side using a Porsche jack adapter pad, once rear tire is off the ground I put my larger jack in from the rear, jack up enough to allow me to remove the side jack and replace side jack with a flat top jack stand, also with rubber pad. Then lower the rear jack so car is sitting on jack stand. I never keep the jacks in place for very long, just to lift and lower. All work done while car is on stands only. No metal to metal anywhere. This approach had proven very stable for my needs.

jhbrennan

Your owner's manual (maybe page 244 or thereabouts) shows the approved lifting points. I've always used these and have never had any issues.

Zoefhaus

Thanks - so you use the lift point indicated by the green circle in my photo above.
No need to lift on the cross-brace itself then (i.e. further inwards), as Pelican Parts recommends?

Zoefhaus

Thanks, but the manual (naturally) only refers to the lifting points on the rocker panels.
But if you use these to take off the wheels, you can't get your jack stands under these lifting points.
(Unless if you use the fancy Jackpoint stands.)

So you could put the jack stands under the cross brace (suspension), but from what I read it is better to lift from the cross brace and put the jack stands under the lifting points in the rocker panels.
The car can then remain on the jack stands placed on the intended lifting points for weeks/months.
Leaving the jack stands under the suspension for a long period seems less advisable.

Bruce In Philly

FWIW.. my friend who is an executive at Ford on the dealer service side and who worked his way through engineering school as a Jaguary dealer tech..... well he will throw a jack under any car and wail away. He said something like any of the structural members where the suspension attaches to are fine. True? I dunno..... but when I watch him do this... and did this to my 911, I kinda chuckle at the neurosis on the forums. Now to be fair, jacking is serious business, but still.... I think my friend's advice is actually "better" (whatever the heck that means) than using body panels such as the rockers. I mean, look where Matt is putting his jack... that member supports the engine/chassis/suspension.... that thing is sustaining massive forces.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

Zoefhaus

Understood
Worry less, work on car more

linderpat

Ha! It's all fun and games until it comes down and crushes you like a bug

Wayne Smith

Metal on metal is slippery, thus unstable. Always, and let me emphasize ... ALWAYS, put a piece of rubber or wood between. I'll never lift any machine if it is metal on metal. The same goes for getting anywhere near a raised machine. Yes, I've witnessed accidents created by the work method of others.

One exception ... interlocking mated surfaces ... but please use caution.

And yes, the suspension parts carry major loads when in use. They should be able to lift the car ... but if the parts you select to lift at are angled, or become angled during the lift, the jack can slide. Look for a place that the cup of the jack can nest around the jacking surface.

jeebus31

This is how I jack up the rear as well. Good info/description, matt997.

ManoTexas

linderpat

Liftbars are your friend. Easiest way to lift the car, and safest way to keep it in the air once up. Short of an actual lift, the liftbars are the way to go. I've been using them for years with all of my Porsches (928s, Boxster and 997). Just be sure to get the correct ones for your car. Here's how they work: http://liftbars.com/

You may have to first jack the car from one of its jack points to raise the suspension so that you can get the first liftbar under. What I do is jack from either lift point to unsettle the suspension. Sit the car back down and pull the jack out. At this point, because the suspension is unsettled the car sits slightly higher. I can then put the liftbar on the jack, slide it under, align the locating pins in the liftbar to the underside of the car, then lift to the desired height. No need to unsettle the other side at that point. The jack with liftbar will slide right under so that you can raise that other side in one step.

Petza914

... and if you do remove a wheel stick it under the car somewhere near the lifted area. Better to scratch a wheel or bend a fender and have the car stay up so you can get out, rather than the other.