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Was not familiar with this option. Main question I have is what all the additional cables are all about. On the OEM lead acid battery there's a positive and a negative terminal and that's it (besides the drain line). A lot more going on in your picture. What are all those additional cables for and what looks like an additional terminal?
You wont have any extra cables. Looks like 1 cable is for the battery tender quick connects. The others may be for aftermarket audio or something. But for you, if you are going to replace it yourself..
Just buy ANY battery that is made for the car.. AGM / Lead / LI / AA / AAA / D.. whatever.. get yourself a 10mm and 8mm wrench and swap away. It will take all of 3 bolts to R/R a battery in our cars.
Was not familiar with this option. Main question I have is what all the additional cables are all about. On the OEM lead acid battery there's a positive and a negative terminal and that's it (besides the drain line). A lot more going on in your picture. What are all those additional cables for and what looks like an additional terminal?
Alex is correct on some of it. One + and - is for the Battery Tender quick connect pigtail that comes out at the air vent in-front of the hood. Another is for the auxiliary compressor and related relay for the front cargraphic AirLift noselift system, and another pair if for the relay and current sensing DRL module I use to illuminate the parking lights of my front LEDs whenever the engine is running as Day Running Lights. That module senses the voltage change from 12.5 to 14 volts and then trips the relay that pulls current from the battery to turn on the lights. There are easier ways to do this like the $2 DRL hack thread, but that uses the fog light LEDs as the DRLs and I wanted to use the parking light surround LEDs instead.
Current Sensing DRL & Relay
Front DRLs on
Closeup of front DRLs
cargraphic AirLift
AirLift Installed - raises body up on strut when engaged by filling the black airbags with air from the auxiliary compressor.
You wont have your extra cables. Looks like 1 cable is for the battery tender quick connects. The others may be for aftermaket audio or something. But for you, if you are going to replace it your self..
Just buy ANY battery that is made for the car.. AGM / Lead / LI / AA / AAA / D.. whatever.. get yourself a 10mm and 8mm wrench and swap away. It will take all of 3 bolts to R/R a batter in our cars.
Alex is correct on some of it. One + and - is for the Battery Tender quick connect pigtail that comes out at the air vent in-front of the hood. Another is for the auxiliary compressor and related relay for the front cargraphic AirLift noselift system, and another pair if for the relay and current sensing DRL module I use to illuminate the parking lights of my front LEDs whenever the engine is running as Day Running Lights. That module senses the voltage change from 12.5 to 14 volts and then trips the relay that pulls current from the battery to turn on the lights. There are easier ways to do this like the $2 DRL hack thread, but that uses the fog light LEDs as the DRLs and I wanted to use the parking light surround LEDs instead.
Got it. Thanks to both Alex and Petza. Will definitely look into this. My main gripe with the lead acid battery on the 997 is how it quits with little or no warning when its life is over. The last one quit with no warning. Had a busy day, running around all day. No starting problems. Not even a hint of hesitation. Next morning, dead, and no.....nothing using electricity was accidentally left on overnight.. The previous one went the same way as I recall it.
I am a fan of Optima batteries. Have used them previously. Their site doesn’t show a fit for my 997.2. Anyone has specifics?
The AGM battery from Suncoast is an interesting choice.
I still have my original battery in my 2010 997.2S.
I'm pretty sure the battery setup in the .2 is the same as the .1 so you would need the Optima 34R too. With this smaller battery, you'll need to put a nut under the tray hole in order to secure the mounting bolt as there isn't one welded under there like in the normal position for the regular size battery. You can just tape an M8 nut to your open end wrench, slide it under the tray to line it up with the hole, put the bolt through from the top and once tightened, slide the wrench out from underneath - don't use the closed end of the wrench.
I just installed a Bosch Platinum AGM (Part#: 94R800BAGM) that I ordered online and picked-up at my local Pep Boys. The final cost was $176.51 - $18 core = $158.51 including tax. Took me about 10 min to replace the battery. Perfect fit, no adjustments needed.
Why not go to the much lighter (by 35-40lbs?) lithium batteries being promoted. You gain "significant" H/P to weight (plus have reserve power to jump start yourself) ratio for less than $200. Any downsides?
on my 997.1 I used the odyssey PC920 and that worked for me . It's much lighter but you will want to drive the car often or have it on a tender more often than not.
Danny.
I've posted this in other threads... but as an FYI. The Walmart Platinum Plus battery is the same as the Bosche is the same as Banner (stock Porsche) and others that have the EXACT SAME CASE. That is because they are made by one of the four major factories. Johnson Control actually is the largest Market share and these companies just buy from the same and just relable them. If they have the exact same case then they are the same batteries. The factories don't waste time or money making the same case with a different interior cell make up. And other manufacturers will not mimic the tooling of another. I could go more into this but you can see... just look at the handles and if our looking to match the Banner,... go with Walmart Platinum or Bosche and I think Duralast from Autozone has the same model too.
Additionally we do or did alot of Tradeshows like SEMA and tons of others.... the Optimas by far have the biggest complaints and claims of only lasting a year or two. Just saying that is what we get all the time at Tradeshows since we do alot of the performance Car shows.
But if interested in Lithium, a much longer lifespan and a battery with built-in Jump starting that will prevent you from ever being locked out of your frunk. Then take a look at what we offer.
I've posted this in other threads... but as an FYI. The Walmart Platinum Plus battery is the same as the Bosche is the same as Banner (stock Porsche) and others that have the EXACT SAME CASE. That is because they are made by one of the four major factories. Johnson Control actually is the largest Market share and these companies just buy from the same and just relable them. If they have the exact same case then they are the same batteries. The factories don't waste time or money making the same case with a different interior cell make up. And other manufacturers will not mimic the tooling of another. I could go more into this but you can see... just look at the handles and if our looking to match the Banner,... go with Walmart Platinum or Bosche and I think Duralast from Autozone has the same model too.
Additionally we do or did alot of Tradeshows like SEMA and tons of others.... the Optimas by far have the biggest complaints and claims of only lasting a year or two. Just saying that is what we get all the time at Tradeshows since we do alot of the performance Car shows.
But if interested in Lithium, a much longer lifespan and a battery with built-in Jump starting that will prevent you from ever being locked out of your frunk. Then take a look at what we offer.
Didn't Johnson Controls sell their battery division back in 2019??
uuhh thats what the quotes are for, tongue in cheek-get it? But seriously, why not not lose 40 pounds for an extra 2 hundos if no downside? My car feels "faster" when I don't carry my mini spare, you know, just like the fabric door pulls in some premium models ( that I'll never understand - can't imagine how grimy they will look in a few years, for what a quarter pound savings, ohh but they are so cool and they make the car "faster")
09-06-2018, 11:41 PM
