How do I lock CAMs - replacing IMS Flange and removing seal.
#1
How do I lock CAMs - replacing IMS Flange and removing seal.
I have a 2008 997s with 190K miles. The IMS Flange is seeping and I want to replace the seal and as long as I'm in this area, remove the IMS seal per forum recommendation.
I can also inspect the bearing and just in case I caught it right before complete failure, I will still have a core to rebuild. Engine was running perfect prior to removing transmission for clutch replacement so hopefully the seeping isn't a sign of vibrating IMS.
Issue. I'm having trouble understanding how to lock the CAMS to allow for IMS Flange removal. I've seen the 996 engine post and understand procedure, but the M97 engine is different.
The CAM locking tools that I see are completely different from the post and videos (see pic).
Question: 1. Does anyone have a good procedure on how to lock CAMs on a 997 or a place to find procedure.
I've tried looking at Workshop manuals, but didn't see how to do it.
2. Can I do this with engine in car?
3. Do I have to lock both CAMs?
4. I see in the LN Engineering write up they use bolts threaded into the IMS flange bolts to lock the sprocket. Should I do this?
5. How do you I check timing when completed with the flange replacement.
All help, opinions, and recommendations appreciated.
I can also inspect the bearing and just in case I caught it right before complete failure, I will still have a core to rebuild. Engine was running perfect prior to removing transmission for clutch replacement so hopefully the seeping isn't a sign of vibrating IMS.
Issue. I'm having trouble understanding how to lock the CAMS to allow for IMS Flange removal. I've seen the 996 engine post and understand procedure, but the M97 engine is different.
The CAM locking tools that I see are completely different from the post and videos (see pic).
Question: 1. Does anyone have a good procedure on how to lock CAMs on a 997 or a place to find procedure.
I've tried looking at Workshop manuals, but didn't see how to do it.
2. Can I do this with engine in car?
3. Do I have to lock both CAMs?
4. I see in the LN Engineering write up they use bolts threaded into the IMS flange bolts to lock the sprocket. Should I do this?
5. How do you I check timing when completed with the flange replacement.
All help, opinions, and recommendations appreciated.
#2
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
For starters, you need the proper cam lock tool. I'll try to see if I have other photos of these installed on the motor.
#3
Rennlist Member
I would recommend watching the Bentley Publishers video going over the procedure:
http://imsretrofit.com/ims-retrofit-procedure-overview/
Then if you follow the Single Row Pro IMS instructions, that will get you through the procedure.
http://imsretrofit.com/wp-content/up...nual-03-23.pdf
http://imsretrofit.com/ims-retrofit-procedure-overview/
Then if you follow the Single Row Pro IMS instructions, that will get you through the procedure.
http://imsretrofit.com/wp-content/up...nual-03-23.pdf
The following users liked this post:
losblancos (04-13-2022)
#4
Thanks for the reply. You helped! I had viewed the Bentley Video, but not the IMSR-pro-manual.
These are the specialty tools that I was going to buy. Saw this on ebay for $50. Cheap enough not to try and manufacture the tools myself.
The tools left to right are: The Retaining Tool - 9685, Adjusting Gauge - 9686, and Locating Pin -9595.
Questions: I see only one Adjusting Gauge, Do I need to lock only one CAM?
If locking one CAM, from the IMSR-Pro Manual it says right side. I assume you lock the CAM from pulley side of engine?
If I lock both CAMs, is it the same Adjusting Gauge, because the IMSR pro manual looks like they have a half size too.?
These are the specialty tools that I was going to buy. Saw this on ebay for $50. Cheap enough not to try and manufacture the tools myself.
The tools left to right are: The Retaining Tool - 9685, Adjusting Gauge - 9686, and Locating Pin -9595.
Questions: I see only one Adjusting Gauge, Do I need to lock only one CAM?
If locking one CAM, from the IMSR-Pro Manual it says right side. I assume you lock the CAM from pulley side of engine?
If I lock both CAMs, is it the same Adjusting Gauge, because the IMSR pro manual looks like they have a half size too.?
#6
Rennlist Member
I did it several years ago so you may want to refer to my thread on Renntech.
https://www.renntech.org/forums/topi...diy-questions/
hop on this helps.
Johan
https://www.renntech.org/forums/topi...diy-questions/
hop on this helps.
Johan
#7
I wanted to give everyone an update. I was successful in locking the CAMs with everyone's help and removed the IMS bearing seal. Had to put my project on hold for the Summer. Actual time to remove bearing seal, replace IMS flange seal, rms seal, transmission mount, new clutch kit and flywheel was 3 1/2 good weekends or around 60 hours of labor and 100 hours of studying to make sure I was doing the job correctly. I'm slow when doing something for first time. Next time, I could probably do everything in less than 20 hours.
Inspecting the bearing. Didn't look like any grease remained. Hard to tell the condition of bearing, but it turned smoothly and there was no play when spinning the bolt.
Anyway, I thank everyone for their help. I've put another 1.5K miles on car. Running great and upto 182K miles total now.
Inspecting the bearing. Didn't look like any grease remained. Hard to tell the condition of bearing, but it turned smoothly and there was no play when spinning the bolt.
Anyway, I thank everyone for their help. I've put another 1.5K miles on car. Running great and upto 182K miles total now.
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#8
I bought the same toolset off eBay, but I didn't find that it worked very well. There are four components in the set, but only one of them was useful and it required modification. The tool that I used was the blade like thing that goes into the slots in the end of the camshafts. It didn't initially fit, so I filed down the edges. Neither of the pin tools were the correct length. The shorter one isn't long enough to reach through the pulley and into the case, and the longer one is too long to fit between the pulley and body. I ended up cutting down a drill bit instead. I could have cut down the longer pin tool to work, but I already had the drill bit in place so I didn't bother. The fourth tool in the set, I don't know what it is for but it is not used when locking cams on a 2006-2008 997 engine. I would like to have had another blade like tool for the other side of the engine to ensure that the other cams don't turn, but the kit doesn't include one.
#9
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I know, but one doesn't actually exist. Tony Callas actually cuts apart the one side that's available and then rewelds it back together the opposite way to make his own for the other bank. Brilliant idea.
#10
Rennlist Member
The tool to lock the other side is part of our tool kit 106-29 that is designed for shops working on these cars:
https://lnengineering.com/m96-faultl...ne-v8-9a1.html
https://lnengineering.com/m96-faultl...ne-v8-9a1.html
#11
Thanks for sharing the information. Based on your experience and the observed condition of the bearing in your car, I feel much better with my decision to leave the original IMS bearing in my car as-is.