jas997

Welcome to the Forum, have been using your product for several years now, as recommended by my indy, great products, look forward to specials !

Scalp_em

I accidentally posted this on the 991 forum ( not that my question would matter what generation);

Motul or anyone else that can give me an educated answer..

Maybe a dumb question, but I want to make sure since the formula is different....
I know when I had my 997 at the Indy last, I had them change the oil while it was in and they put in x-cess 5w-40.( not sure if it was gen 1 or 2 ) .... will it matter if it was Gen 1 they did the change with and I top it off with Gen 2 5w-40?

anewman

You can safely top off gen 1 w gen 2 ( or vice versa). It on the motul website somewhere. The gen 2 just has a slightly improved additive pack to meet updated manufacturers emission spec.

AlexGR_

Hello @Motul

Motul fan here also from Greece 🇬🇷 😁

I need to ask, i used to have 0w40 to my Porsche but to last servicing my tech uses motul 10w60

The engine it's quite a lot, i like it better, also no tik tik sounds from lifters, but i feel the engine lost some performance, not throttle so fast as before.

Also i see more smoke at startup, for more seconds instead of 0w40

And has more oil consumption i think with 10w60 which looks strange to me.

So my concerns are :

1) are all those i saw and feel with 10w60 normal?

2) As i have some oil consumption, can i top up with 0w40 xmax or i should continue with 10w60 power until the next service interval?

Thanks a lot in advance,
Alex

Petza914

10w60 is really too thick for these cars. The highest I'd go is a 5w50 and that's for hot weather use and a 5w40 for normal weather use. The change in engine performance you're feeling is because you're getting more parasitic drag on the engine internals from the 60 hot viscosity oil so the motor is using up some of it's power just to move that around. Think about trying to suck molasses through a straw vs water. The 10 cold viscosity is also a little too thick to pump well for cold starts.

Charles Navarro

10w60 is too thick for these engines. You've increased the pumping losses by putting in a thicker oil - that's why it revs slower and is making less power. Also, the low tension oil controls on the pistons can't handle the increased viscosity let alone there probably aren't enough oil drain backs in the pistons.

You'd have to build an engine with clearances adjusted for the thicker oil along with higher tension oil controls and more drain backs.

Really a 15w50 is the thickest oil you probably want to run and that's only if you are tracking the car AND you have sustained oil temps regularly over 240F. A 5w50 isn't a big change over a 5w40 as 5w50s tend to shear down to a 5w40 relatively quick, so I'd say a 5w40 or 5w50 are the only viscosities you should be considering.

I'd change the oil now and put in the proper viscosity before you cause damage to your engine. I've seen more than one person blow up their M96 engine running 10w60 on the track.

8x57IRS

I also run Motul X-Power 10W-60. It was specifically recommended to me after the repair and my oil consumption is currently at 0.1l/1000km. My oil temperature reaches almost 120°C on the Autobahn at warm temperatures and longer high speed runs. Btw, Porsche itself now recommends a 10W-60 for the 996 (!).
Question for Motul: My oil analyses show high but steadily decreasing copper values from change to change (80/70/50mg/l since 30.000km), the rest of the wear values are completely unremarkable. Their comment to the analysis was:
Copper is higher than expected. Possible causes: Copper corrosion on oil cooler, oil tank or piping, reaction of oil with brass or bronze. All other wear values determined are within the permissible or expected values. You should observe the further change on the basis of the next analysis. There is no evidence of increased water content or the water content is less than 0.1%. The fuel content is negligible. The viscosity has decreased compared to the fresh oil. The base number BN (indicator of alkaline reserve) has slightly decreased compared to the fresh oil. According to your information, the oil has already been changed.

Question now: Is there a possibility of copper corrosion with X-Power 10W-60?

Carreralicious

Where are you seeing Porsche recommending a 10w-60 for the 996? According to their own website, they recommend and make a 5W-50 for the 996….

https://www.porsche.com/internationa...ghts/motoroil/

8x57IRS

You are right, it's 10W-60 from 3.0l on in 911 but 5W-50 for 996.

Carreralicious

Yeah, those are for the air cooled models, not our cars. Highest you should use is 5W-50. Porsche does not recommend any 10w-60 oil for our water cooled cars.

Carreralicious

Reviving this thread to note that in my last oil change, on a whim, I decided to switch from Mobil 1 5W-50 to Motul 8100 Xcess 5W-40 Gen 2, as I read that the Motul was a 100% synthetic oil (group IV POA based vs the Mobil “full synthetic” which is made from group III refined Dino). To my surprise, the claim from Mr. Motul in this thread that using their oil would yield less oil usage is true. I am experiencing about 30-35% less oil burn with the Motul.

Mr. Motul claimed that the lower oil usage would be due to the higher flash point of the Motul, which I don’t really see is much different from the Mobil 1, as both have flashpoints of around 450F, but I do find it interesting that I essentially switched from a heavier 50 weight oil to a 40W, and yet the oil burn is less which is contrary to folks saying if you go to a heavier weight oil, you will likely burn less oil. I haven’t done any oil analysis on either brands and also have not added any MoS2, as I don’t believe in adding any additives to my oil but am liking this Motul. The car feels peppier with this oil and pulls stronger than with the M1 I feel. I’m also getting slightly better fuel economy on it.

Charles Navarro

I have always been a fan of 8100 X-Cess for their A40 approved oil.

The 5w50 M1 has lots of viscosity modifiers, so it often will shear out of grade rather quickly from what other users have reported after performing used oil analysis.

There are greater pumping losses with the thicker oil, so for sure it would feel less peppy with the 5w50 vs the 5w40. I've seen some try using 10w60 and that is way too thick for these engines unless the clearances have been adjusted during a rebuild, specifically the rod bearings since those clearances are so tight, and have had failures as a result.

The only exception where we ever run an Xw50 is if it is in a track car and it's really hot out and they are expecting sustained oil temps as a result.

For most of us a 5w40 is the appropriate viscosity to run.

It is also worth mentioning that we have seen similar reductions in oil consumption from those running LM2040 (Liqui-Moly A40 5w40), but without any MoS2 or Ceratec additive.

Using a highly friction modified oil will likely result in increased oil consumption for the trade-off of improved wear performance, specifically for the Lokasil (or later Alusil) cylinders.

Carreralicious

Thanks for your thoughts on this Charles. Now that I am liking this oil, I am even thinking to try out Motul’s Sport 5W-40 line which is supposed to sit in between the Xcess and 300V line as it has some esters in it. 300V doesn’t really last more than 3000 miles due to it not having the detergent package required for a long drain interval but the Sport line is supposed to be good for 5000 miles per year which would be ok for me. Just not sure why no one talks about their sport line of oils. Maybe it’s hard to source?

Charles Navarro

I too would like to see a UOA for Motul Sport. Looks like a very interesting product trying to fit a difficult application being mixed use.

For years I would run a blend of Driven's DT40 and XP9 to give me a streetable race oil in my daily that I would track :-)