Introduction: Motul
#76
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Porsche must be more conservative as my manual notes 5W down to -13F..... Anywho..... If Porsche says it is fine, then I have no problem using it in the winter.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
#77
Three Wheelin'
random thread to ask this question, I have a third radiator and now that it’s in the 50’s the oil struggles to get above this temp unless significant stop and go traffic. It get to about 200-205. Do you recommend covering it during the fall and spring? It’s great in the summer. I’ve been making a point of it to get it to 212 but it’s a chore putz’ing around town before I put the car away.
#78
Three Wheelin'
random thread to ask this question, I have a third radiator and now that it’s in the 50’s the oil struggles to get above this temp unless significant stop and go traffic. It get to about 200-205. Do you recommend covering it during the fall and spring? It’s great in the summer. I’ve been making a point of it to get it to 212 but it’s a chore putz’ing around town before I put the car away.
#79
Rennlist Member
random thread to ask this question, I have a third radiator and now that it’s in the 50’s the oil struggles to get above this temp unless significant stop and go traffic. It get to about 200-205. Do you recommend covering it during the fall and spring? It’s great in the summer. I’ve been making a point of it to get it to 212 but it’s a chore putz’ing around town before I put the car away.
I'll clarify thermostat operation as it was brought up by doclouie - the stock thermostat starts to open at 186F and isn't fully open until 210-215F. When coolant temperature lowers closer to 186F, the thermostat will start to close and will cycle between various shades of open during normal operation.
The low temperature thermostat starts to open at 160F and is fully open by 185F.
The gen 2 cars can be fitted with a low temp thermostat, however often it will trigger a pending CEL for cooling system. Nothing that will affect operation, but may cause a CEL. Porsche Motorsports sold one and we later had our own made for all our track cars.
981/991 use a computer controlled thermostat, so short of coding the car for Sahara (which apparently lowers the opening temp to 160F - I cannot confirm), coolant temp is managed by the ECU.
#80
Three Wheelin'
I'll second doclouie's sentiment. Just drive it. It will be very difficult in colder climates to get the oil to 212F. That's why I recommend more frequent oil changes on daily drivers in colder climates. The oil in my parent's GTI looks horrible after 3 months, but it only gets driven about one mile to and from our office, and rarely sees extended use. In the winter, the oil never gets hot.
I'll clarify thermostat operation as it was brought up by doclouie - the stock thermostat starts to open at 186F and isn't fully open until 210-215F. When coolant temperature lowers closer to 186F, the thermostat will start to close and will cycle between various shades of open during normal operation.
The low temperature thermostat starts to open at 160F and is fully open by 185F.
The gen 2 cars can be fitted with a low temp thermostat, however often it will trigger a pending CEL for cooling system. Nothing that will affect operation, but may cause a CEL. Porsche Motorsports sold one and we later had our own made for all our track cars.
981/991 use a computer controlled thermostat, so short of coding the car for Sahara (which apparently lowers the opening temp to 160F - I cannot confirm), coolant temp is managed by the ECU.
I'll clarify thermostat operation as it was brought up by doclouie - the stock thermostat starts to open at 186F and isn't fully open until 210-215F. When coolant temperature lowers closer to 186F, the thermostat will start to close and will cycle between various shades of open during normal operation.
The low temperature thermostat starts to open at 160F and is fully open by 185F.
The gen 2 cars can be fitted with a low temp thermostat, however often it will trigger a pending CEL for cooling system. Nothing that will affect operation, but may cause a CEL. Porsche Motorsports sold one and we later had our own made for all our track cars.
981/991 use a computer controlled thermostat, so short of coding the car for Sahara (which apparently lowers the opening temp to 160F - I cannot confirm), coolant temp is managed by the ECU.
#81
Rennlist Member
Charles, I will be changing out my 997.2 water pump and thermostat this winter. I want to run your low temperature thermostat, but wonder about the check engine light that most likely will come up. Will the CEL turn on one time and stay on forever until it is cleared by my scanner? Will the CEL turn on one time because it is taking long to heat up and the next time not at all? Thanks for your comments in advanced.
#82
Three Wheelin'
It's not consistent. Sometimes it's a pending fault that doesn't throw a CEL and other times it sets a hard fault that requires it to be cleared out by a scanner. That's why we only install them in race cars in .2 cars. Regardless, it doesn't put the car in limp mode.
#85
Racer
Mr.Motul: I have a base model 996 with around 100k miles on it. Which oil would you recommend for the following usages:
1. Daily driver, no track
2. Week-end driver, 2-3 track days per year
3. Seldom driver, 2-3 track days per year
4. Seldom driver, no track.
5. Track days only
1. Daily driver, no track
2. Week-end driver, 2-3 track days per year
3. Seldom driver, 2-3 track days per year
4. Seldom driver, no track.
5. Track days only
#86
Burning Brakes
Also, if you can recommend the right oil types based on the previous post (below), that would also be great.
Mr.Motul: I have a base model 996 with around 100k miles on it. Which oil would you recommend for the following usages:
1. Daily driver, no track
2. Week-end driver, 2-3 track days per year
3. Seldom driver, 2-3 track days per year
4. Seldom driver, no track.
5. Track days only
1. Daily driver, no track
2. Week-end driver, 2-3 track days per year
3. Seldom driver, 2-3 track days per year
4. Seldom driver, no track.
5. Track days only
#87
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Mr.Motul: I have a base model 996 with around 100k miles on it. Which oil would you recommend for the following usages:
1. Daily driver, no track
2. Week-end driver, 2-3 track days per year
3. Seldom driver, 2-3 track days per year
4. Seldom driver, no track.
5. Track days only
1. Daily driver, no track
2. Week-end driver, 2-3 track days per year
3. Seldom driver, 2-3 track days per year
4. Seldom driver, no track.
5. Track days only
1. 8100 X-cess 5W40 in most cases, 8100 X-Max 0W-40 in colder climates.
2. Motul Sport 5W-40 contains Ester/PAO that holds up well to some track abuse and a longer drain interval (~5,000 miles), if okay with changing the oil every 3,000 miles then 300V is preferred.
3. Motul 300V, change after each track day
4. Motul Sport 5W40 if higher mileage with no warranty concerns, Esters bond to porous metals and offer great protection for cold starts after sitting for extended periods.
6. Motul 300V 0W-40 or 5W-40, ideally it should be changed after every track day.
This will depend on the car, but that would be the best recommendation for your 996 with that mileage. If you are running a built motor with higher horsepower than 300V would be recommended for any track use.
We are working out a deal for Rennlist members specifically later in the month.
Thank you,
Nolan
The following 3 users liked this post by Motul:
#88
Burning Brakes
Here is what I would recommend:
1. 8100 X-cess 5W40 in most cases, 8100 X-Max 0W-40 in colder climates.
2. Motul Sport 5W-40 contains Ester/PAO that holds up well to some track abuse and a longer drain interval (~5,000 miles), if okay with changing the oil every 3,000 miles then 300V is preferred.
3. Motul 300V, change after each track day
4. Motul Sport 5W40 if higher mileage with no warranty concerns, Esters bond to porous metals and offer great protection for cold starts after sitting for extended periods.
6. Motul 300V 0W-40 or 5W-40, ideally it should be changed after every track day.
This will depend on the car, but that would be the best recommendation for your 996 with that mileage. If you are running a built motor with higher horsepower than 300V would be recommended for any track use.
The best deal right now is during the RallySportDirect.com Cyber Week deal with 15% off, though shipping is only free with $200+ purchase and Amazon will have the best deals for smaller orders fo popular products like 8100 X-Cess 5W40.
We are working out a deal for Rennlist members specifically later in the month.
Thank you,
Nolan
1. 8100 X-cess 5W40 in most cases, 8100 X-Max 0W-40 in colder climates.
2. Motul Sport 5W-40 contains Ester/PAO that holds up well to some track abuse and a longer drain interval (~5,000 miles), if okay with changing the oil every 3,000 miles then 300V is preferred.
3. Motul 300V, change after each track day
4. Motul Sport 5W40 if higher mileage with no warranty concerns, Esters bond to porous metals and offer great protection for cold starts after sitting for extended periods.
6. Motul 300V 0W-40 or 5W-40, ideally it should be changed after every track day.
This will depend on the car, but that would be the best recommendation for your 996 with that mileage. If you are running a built motor with higher horsepower than 300V would be recommended for any track use.
The best deal right now is during the RallySportDirect.com Cyber Week deal with 15% off, though shipping is only free with $200+ purchase and Amazon will have the best deals for smaller orders fo popular products like 8100 X-Cess 5W40.
We are working out a deal for Rennlist members specifically later in the month.
Thank you,
Nolan
--shyam
#89
Racer
Thank you very much for the recommendation.
Your recommendations crashes a bit with my knowledge of oils and I think I need to have my oil-knowledge updated a bit.
From my understanding it is advisable to use a heavier oil when you expect a hotter engine, like in the case of track driving/hot weather, so I would assume a 50 weight oil is more suitable for that. The same goes for old engine which is worn and have larger clearances, a heavier oil would be recommended.
I also thought that the winter weight had no play when the engine was at working temperature but I see your recommendations for track just differs in winter weight which I would assume makes no difference except for cold start.
Is it the modern oils and their additives that makes this knowledge a bit out date?
Your recommendations crashes a bit with my knowledge of oils and I think I need to have my oil-knowledge updated a bit.
From my understanding it is advisable to use a heavier oil when you expect a hotter engine, like in the case of track driving/hot weather, so I would assume a 50 weight oil is more suitable for that. The same goes for old engine which is worn and have larger clearances, a heavier oil would be recommended.
I also thought that the winter weight had no play when the engine was at working temperature but I see your recommendations for track just differs in winter weight which I would assume makes no difference except for cold start.
Is it the modern oils and their additives that makes this knowledge a bit out date?
Here is what I would recommend:
1. 8100 X-cess 5W40 in most cases, 8100 X-Max 0W-40 in colder climates.
2. Motul Sport 5W-40 contains Ester/PAO that holds up well to some track abuse and a longer drain interval (~5,000 miles), if okay with changing the oil every 3,000 miles then 300V is preferred.
3. Motul 300V, change after each track day
4. Motul Sport 5W40 if higher mileage with no warranty concerns, Esters bond to porous metals and offer great protection for cold starts after sitting for extended periods.
6. Motul 300V 0W-40 or 5W-40, ideally it should be changed after every track day.
1. 8100 X-cess 5W40 in most cases, 8100 X-Max 0W-40 in colder climates.
2. Motul Sport 5W-40 contains Ester/PAO that holds up well to some track abuse and a longer drain interval (~5,000 miles), if okay with changing the oil every 3,000 miles then 300V is preferred.
3. Motul 300V, change after each track day
4. Motul Sport 5W40 if higher mileage with no warranty concerns, Esters bond to porous metals and offer great protection for cold starts after sitting for extended periods.
6. Motul 300V 0W-40 or 5W-40, ideally it should be changed after every track day.
#90
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
With a modern engine, say 1990s and newer, the tolerances in the engine are typically made for a 40 weight and will actually create more heat with the 50 weight because you are causing added friction by forcing a thicker oil through an engine designed with 40 weight in mind. We do recommend something like a 4100 15W50, 300V 15W50, or our Classic Performance 20W50 in the older Porsches as they have wider engine tolerances, designed for a 50 weight and needed a thicker product at running temps. The use of strong modern materials like Esters offer protection that was once compensated for with a thicker weight (due to lower-quality oils that would break down quicker) or extreme levels of zinc.
My recommendation of a 300V 0W40 or 5W40 for track use is simply because you can use both, with a slight protection advantage on the 0W40 in colder climates if tracking the car and having less than adequate warm up time. If you drive the car to the track or let it reach running temp as you should, then you are right and there is no measurable difference.
My recommendation of a 300V 0W40 or 5W40 for track use is simply because you can use both, with a slight protection advantage on the 0W40 in colder climates if tracking the car and having less than adequate warm up time. If you drive the car to the track or let it reach running temp as you should, then you are right and there is no measurable difference.