Metal Shavings in the Oil
06-13-2018, 08:51 PM
#31
06-13-2018, 09:04 PM
#32
well, if you drop the pan then i would definitely change oil again and inspect filter. There will be oil trapped in the oil canister with the filter. best to get that out and look again.
Come to think of it... I had a friend who had a similar situation. He did a couple of oil changes over a couple of weeks to clear out as many shavings as possible. His shavings cleared up and got cleaned out. He has not seen metal shavings like that again in his oil filters ever since and that was like a year ago and 2 more oil changes. He never cracked open the motor either, even though it's recommended. We have no idea how much time you have. It could be years, or maybe weeks. Hard to say.
This is where the "guessing" gets us in trouble. I would love to tell ya to drop the pan and search for any "larger chunks". If none are found then do a couple of oil changes in a short amount of time over a few days to get those shavings cleared out. If you don't see any shavings, then you may be in the clear for a little while. Do another oil change in a few weeks and inspect that. If all in the clear.. maybe go a bit longer.... etc.... etc... If all is good, maybe try to get a warranty. I am just thinking out loud at this moment.
The last thing any of us want to do is give you bad advice. I know the engine rebuilds are damn expensive and many of us have way better things to invest 25k in. We feel for ya and hope this is just a minor fluke . At some point in the future you will need to figure out the source of those shavings.
Come to think of it... I had a friend who had a similar situation. He did a couple of oil changes over a couple of weeks to clear out as many shavings as possible. His shavings cleared up and got cleaned out. He has not seen metal shavings like that again in his oil filters ever since and that was like a year ago and 2 more oil changes. He never cracked open the motor either, even though it's recommended. We have no idea how much time you have. It could be years, or maybe weeks. Hard to say.
This is where the "guessing" gets us in trouble. I would love to tell ya to drop the pan and search for any "larger chunks". If none are found then do a couple of oil changes in a short amount of time over a few days to get those shavings cleared out. If you don't see any shavings, then you may be in the clear for a little while. Do another oil change in a few weeks and inspect that. If all in the clear.. maybe go a bit longer.... etc.... etc... If all is good, maybe try to get a warranty. I am just thinking out loud at this moment.
The last thing any of us want to do is give you bad advice. I know the engine rebuilds are damn expensive and many of us have way better things to invest 25k in. We feel for ya and hope this is just a minor fluke . At some point in the future you will need to figure out the source of those shavings.
06-14-2018, 12:50 AM
#33
Most common failures are
1-IMS
2-bore scoring
Drop the pan
Scope the cylinders.
Neither is expensive and may give you a diagnosis
As for the extended warranty, not now. They ask if you have any problems or suspect anything. I guess you could lie and try to get away with it. Or keep driving it, do a couple more oil changes, hope the metal goes away and the engine does not blow. If both those happen you could get a warranty with a clear conscience.
When this happened to me, it was the IMS. I replaced the bearing and did frequent oil changes. I got messages from both LN and flat 6 that I was on borrowed time. They weren't try to sell me anything, just warning me about all the collateral damage and risking to core. So I went for the rebuild.
Don't feel bad about the cost. I invested over $40,000 in a 996 in 27 months.
1-IMS
2-bore scoring
Drop the pan
Scope the cylinders.
Neither is expensive and may give you a diagnosis
As for the extended warranty, not now. They ask if you have any problems or suspect anything. I guess you could lie and try to get away with it. Or keep driving it, do a couple more oil changes, hope the metal goes away and the engine does not blow. If both those happen you could get a warranty with a clear conscience.
When this happened to me, it was the IMS. I replaced the bearing and did frequent oil changes. I got messages from both LN and flat 6 that I was on borrowed time. They weren't try to sell me anything, just warning me about all the collateral damage and risking to core. So I went for the rebuild.
Don't feel bad about the cost. I invested over $40,000 in a 996 in 27 months.
06-14-2018, 04:54 AM
#34
well, if you drop the pan then i would definitely change oil again and inspect filter. There will be oil trapped in the oil canister with the filter. best to get that out and look again.
Come to think of it... I had a friend who had a similar situation. He did a couple of oil changes over a couple of weeks to clear out as many shavings as possible. His shavings cleared up and got cleaned out. He has not seen metal shavings like that again in his oil filters ever since and that was like a year ago and 2 more oil changes. He never cracked open the motor either, even though it's recommended. We have no idea how much time you have. It could be years, or maybe weeks. Hard to say.
This is where the "guessing" gets us in trouble. I would love to tell ya to drop the pan and search for any "larger chunks". If none are found then do a couple of oil changes in a short amount of time over a few days to get those shavings cleared out. If you don't see any shavings, then you may be in the clear for a little while. Do another oil change in a few weeks and inspect that. If all in the clear.. maybe go a bit longer.... etc.... etc... If all is good, maybe try to get a warranty. I am just thinking out loud at this moment.
The last thing any of us want to do is give you bad advice. I know the engine rebuilds are damn expensive and many of us have way better things to invest 25k in. We feel for ya and hope this is just a minor fluke . At some point in the future you will need to figure out the source of those shavings.
Come to think of it... I had a friend who had a similar situation. He did a couple of oil changes over a couple of weeks to clear out as many shavings as possible. His shavings cleared up and got cleaned out. He has not seen metal shavings like that again in his oil filters ever since and that was like a year ago and 2 more oil changes. He never cracked open the motor either, even though it's recommended. We have no idea how much time you have. It could be years, or maybe weeks. Hard to say.
This is where the "guessing" gets us in trouble. I would love to tell ya to drop the pan and search for any "larger chunks". If none are found then do a couple of oil changes in a short amount of time over a few days to get those shavings cleared out. If you don't see any shavings, then you may be in the clear for a little while. Do another oil change in a few weeks and inspect that. If all in the clear.. maybe go a bit longer.... etc.... etc... If all is good, maybe try to get a warranty. I am just thinking out loud at this moment.
The last thing any of us want to do is give you bad advice. I know the engine rebuilds are damn expensive and many of us have way better things to invest 25k in. We feel for ya and hope this is just a minor fluke . At some point in the future you will need to figure out the source of those shavings.
Most common failures are
1-IMS
2-bore scoring
Drop the pan
Scope the cylinders.
Neither is expensive and may give you a diagnosis
As for the extended warranty, not now. They ask if you have any problems or suspect anything. I guess you could lie and try to get away with it. Or keep driving it, do a couple more oil changes, hope the metal goes away and the engine does not blow. If both those happen you could get a warranty with a clear conscience.
When this happened to me, it was the IMS. I replaced the bearing and did frequent oil changes. I got messages from both LN and flat 6 that I was on borrowed time. They weren't try to sell me anything, just warning me about all the collateral damage and risking to core. So I went for the rebuild.
Don't feel bad about the cost. I invested over $40,000 in a 996 in 27 months.
1-IMS
2-bore scoring
Drop the pan
Scope the cylinders.
Neither is expensive and may give you a diagnosis
As for the extended warranty, not now. They ask if you have any problems or suspect anything. I guess you could lie and try to get away with it. Or keep driving it, do a couple more oil changes, hope the metal goes away and the engine does not blow. If both those happen you could get a warranty with a clear conscience.
When this happened to me, it was the IMS. I replaced the bearing and did frequent oil changes. I got messages from both LN and flat 6 that I was on borrowed time. They weren't try to sell me anything, just warning me about all the collateral damage and risking to core. So I went for the rebuild.
Don't feel bad about the cost. I invested over $40,000 in a 996 in 27 months.
06-14-2018, 11:33 AM
#35
Three Wheelin'
Here is my post from last year on the aluminum bits I found and tips and steps to drop the oil pain.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...er-debris.html
Dropping the pan is pretty easy if you have jack stands and a expert in your area willing to assist, like Wayne Smith did with me. It will also give you the ability to scope the bottom of the cylinders, which is where the scoring is typically found, vs going through the plugs.
What area do you live in? Maybe we can get some local volunteers to help out.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...er-debris.html
Dropping the pan is pretty easy if you have jack stands and a expert in your area willing to assist, like Wayne Smith did with me. It will also give you the ability to scope the bottom of the cylinders, which is where the scoring is typically found, vs going through the plugs.
What area do you live in? Maybe we can get some local volunteers to help out.
06-14-2018, 12:36 PM
#36
Rennlist Member
Swap your engine + a bit of cash (i'd say $10-15k) with the guy who wants to build a 4.0 here from a perfectly good 997.1 2006 C4S X51 engine
???
Edit:
After thinking about this a bit the ONLY downside I see for either of you is no longer having matching engine numbers to your chassis.
You get a (assuming) perfectly good UPGRADED X51 engine and he gets his build nearly half subsidized. And obviously you split the cost to R&R the swapped engines.
???
Edit:
After thinking about this a bit the ONLY downside I see for either of you is no longer having matching engine numbers to your chassis.
You get a (assuming) perfectly good UPGRADED X51 engine and he gets his build nearly half subsidized. And obviously you split the cost to R&R the swapped engines.
06-14-2018, 01:35 PM
#37
Three Wheelin'
Swap your engine + a bit of cash (i'd say $10-15k) with the guy who wants to build a 4.0 here from a perfectly good 997.1 2006 C4S X51 engine
???
???
06-14-2018, 01:45 PM
#38
Three Wheelin'
Swap your engine + a bit of cash (i'd say $10-15k) with the guy who wants to build a 4.0 here from a perfectly good 997.1 2006 C4S X51 engine
???
Edit:
After thinking about this a bit the ONLY downside I see for either of you is no longer having matching engine numbers to your chassis.
You get a (assuming) perfectly good UPGRADED X51 engine and he gets his build nearly half subsidized. And obviously you split the cost to R&R the swapped engines.
???
Edit:
After thinking about this a bit the ONLY downside I see for either of you is no longer having matching engine numbers to your chassis.
You get a (assuming) perfectly good UPGRADED X51 engine and he gets his build nearly half subsidized. And obviously you split the cost to R&R the swapped engines.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the engine number doesn't match the VIN anymore (at least on the 997)? Other then it being replaced from the factory and stamped "AT", there is no way to officially tell it's a matching numbers car.
06-14-2018, 02:35 PM
#40
Rennlist Member
That's a win-win for both parties and very great idea if both can agree on each other's terms.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the engine number doesn't match the VIN anymore (at least on the 997)? Other then it being replaced from the factory and stamped "AT", there is no way to officially tell it's a matching numbers car.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the engine number doesn't match the VIN anymore (at least on the 997)? Other then it being replaced from the factory and stamped "AT", there is no way to officially tell it's a matching numbers car.
06-14-2018, 02:50 PM
#41
Three Wheelin'
06-14-2018, 03:11 PM
#42
Rennlist Member
I can't say this is very ethical, but you could trade it in. In fact, given that you don't really know anything is wrong with it at all for certain, you could almost rationalize it ethically.
Find a nice 997.2 at a Porsche dealer and rock out?
Find a nice 997.2 at a Porsche dealer and rock out?
06-14-2018, 03:31 PM
#43
Rennlist Member
I checked my CoA and it’s on there but that was from back in 2014
06-14-2018, 05:06 PM
#44
Rennlist Member
I think everyone here is getting there panties in a bind.
That oil filter debris doesn't look that bad - I've seen 996's with worse and cause was just normal wear with no possibility of a bad engine or in need of rebuild.
Change the oil, have fun and drive it and then check out the filter after 3K miles
That oil filter debris doesn't look that bad - I've seen 996's with worse and cause was just normal wear with no possibility of a bad engine or in need of rebuild.
Change the oil, have fun and drive it and then check out the filter after 3K miles
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