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Have an issue with error code regarding reverse light.
I had a change to LED plate lights o er winter, so I got new standard units and installed them.
Error still there. Hm.
Did the old trick and looked in real life, ok, the one on the driver side was black. Guess error code was correct.
Tried with new bulb, no luck.
Now I measured the bulb connectors, no 12V at all.
The otherside of cars reverse light is working fine.
Anyone has had issues with reverse light on one side only??
The bulb control module will sometimes shut off the output to a circuit upon finding an error, but it would be odd for the other to work. I'd pull the taillight on that side and examine the wiring, connector, and bulb socket. If you don't see anything there, disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes may reset the module and then when reconnected will send the voltage to that side again, providing you have a normal, good bulb in that side at the time and it doesn't sense the same error.
DON'T LATCH THE FRUNK WITH THE BATTERY DISCONNECTED.
Today was ever worse...now the radio unit starts to go on and off randomly....
I guess it all has to do with the new front running daylight LED unit I put in.
The car is a 997.1 so I wanted an update for the looks. Stupid it seems.
It does not feel good at all with this random codes and stuff, and tomorrow is the first trackday of the season...
Today was ever worse...now the radio unit starts to go on and off randomly....
I guess it all has to do with the new front running daylight LED unit I put in.
The car is a 997.1 so I wanted an update for the looks. Stupid it seems.
It does not feel good at all with this random codes and stuff, and tomorrow is the first trackday of the season...
You put in front LED lights or dome type of LED module. Lots of us are running front led lights without similar issues, but if you wired in some type of module, that could be the issue.
Similar to this, its a replacement unit with running day lights and so on.
Those should be fine. I think that style is all made in the same place. Had them on both my 997s until I went to the turbo style on my silver car.
Did you do anything with the DRL hack behind the headlight switch or any work g changes, or just hooked them up the normal way as replacements for the originals?
Yes that is the same type. And I did put in a RunningDayLight relay, that feels when the voltage goes up as you start the engine, and then lights up the RDLs. As I am in Sweden we must have lights on also during daytime, hence the RDL stuff.
Could it be the relay?
Yes that is the same type. And I did put in a RunningDayLight relay, that feels when the voltage goes up as you start the engine, and then lights up the RDLs. As I am in Sweden we must have lights on also during daytime, hence the RDL stuff.
Could it be the relay?
Which lights in the front were you trying to use as the DRL, the horizontal less bright var that's normally the parking lights or the bright white LEDs that are normally the fog lights? If the horizontal bar, that's a fiber optic non led light and draws too much amperage for the current sensing DRL module and will fry it the first time you start the car. Ask me how I know. If you want to use those lights, you have to hook the current sensing module to an SPDT relay and then power the lights directly from the battery through the relay. Depending on how that current sensing module cooked, it could cause all kinds of canbus errors in the network and cause all the strange behaviors you're describing.
The best DRL setup is the $2 hack using a diode on the wires behind the ignition switch. Search for $2 DRL hack.
Which lights in the front were you trying to use as the DRL, the horizontal less bright var that's normally the parking lights or the bright white LEDs that are normally the fog lights? If the horizontal bar, that's a fiber optic non led light and draws too much amperage for the current sensing DRL module and will fry it the first time you start the car. Ask me how I know. If you want to use those lights, you have to hook the current sensing module to an SPDT relay and then power the lights directly from the battery through the relay. Depending on how that current sensing module cooked, it could cause all kinds of canbus errors in the network and cause all the strange behaviors you're describing.
The best DRL setup is the $2 hack using a diode on the wires behind the ignition switch. Search for $2 DRL hack.
sorry for you troubles op. Thanks very much for posting this. I was considering these lights and im not an electronics guru so im going to bookmark this
Yes they are installed so that the white led bulbs are on at RDL and the long beam/bar is not. Perhaps its the relay that does this things. I guess it has to be a canbus issue.
And it is installed with a relay directly onto the battery. It also made some interesting blinking when my ctec charger was on...., had to get away with the fuse to the relay, it looked like a dicso in the garage from outside
Update; It all was a gigant misstake!, great at the end of the day.
As I was disconnectin all the front LED stuff, nothing changed to the better, still issues with tail light. I started to do old school troubleshooting and noticed one of the connectors in the rear light was not perfect, after some adjustment of them, all is good with the reverse lights now��.
The radio, well I finally took out the navagation cd and also took the fuse out for some time, now its back in business as usual!
At the end of the day it seems this was just a big misstake, with my suspicions against the newest gadgets.
So by all means go ahead and install the DRLs and also the relay for it, works great!
04-20-2018, 05:50 PM
One reverse light blacked out
