Motive power bleeder 0 psi
#1
Motive power bleeder 0 psi
Any motive power bleeder users can please help me out.
first time power bleeder user, as per instruction I was dry testing my new bleeder to see if it will hold 10-12 psi but even after pumping 50 times the gauge is stuck at zero psi. What could be wrong? No obvious leaks detected. It’s the European black version with the stainless steel cap.
return for refund or anything to troubleshoot first?
first time power bleeder user, as per instruction I was dry testing my new bleeder to see if it will hold 10-12 psi but even after pumping 50 times the gauge is stuck at zero psi. What could be wrong? No obvious leaks detected. It’s the European black version with the stainless steel cap.
return for refund or anything to troubleshoot first?
#2
Rennlist Member
Any motive power bleeder users can please help me out.
first time power bleeder user, as per instruction I was dry testing my new bleeder to see if it will hold 10-12 psi but even after pumping 50 times the gauge is stuck at zero psi. What could be wrong? No obvious leaks detected. It’s the European black version with the stainless steel cap.
return for refund or anything to troubleshoot first?
first time power bleeder user, as per instruction I was dry testing my new bleeder to see if it will hold 10-12 psi but even after pumping 50 times the gauge is stuck at zero psi. What could be wrong? No obvious leaks detected. It’s the European black version with the stainless steel cap.
return for refund or anything to troubleshoot first?
BTW - I use this dry connection when I want to do a quick pressure test and small volume bleed and have never had a problem. It also make for a quick clean up since you don't add brake fluid to the canister/reservoir.
#3
If you are set on using the power bleeder dont let me dissuade you but as an FYI I have found them to be more of a PITA to use than they are worth. As long as you dont run the MC dry and introduce air into the system you can gravity bleed while adding new fluid and it is super easy. Something to consider.
Mike
Mike
#4
If you are set on using the power bleeder dont let me dissuade you but as an FYI I have found them to be more of a PITA to use than they are worth. As long as you dont run the MC dry and introduce air into the system you can gravity bleed while adding new fluid and it is super easy. Something to consider.
Mike
Mike
My bleeding tip, I first loosen the bleed screw with a breaker bar and six sided socket to reduce risk of striping the bleed screw with a box end wrench or flare wrench. With a breaker bar I can loosen the screw then barely tighten it down before any brake fluid comes out. Then after I attach my bleeding tube, I can easily open the screw with a box end wrench - Enjoy.
#5
I had trouble with the first one I bought - same thing - wouldn’t build pressure. I disassembled the pump and found that the little diaphragm on the end of the plunger had broken off. I took a picture of it and sent it to them. They shipped me a new pump.
#6
Contacted motive who replied fast. The grease on the white plastic piston on the end of the metal shaft had fallen into the bottom of the pump cylinder blocking the 4 small holes. Cleaned it out, added new grease and it works but it’s really hard to pump it above 10psi.
Also have a small leak where the gauge attaches which I need to fix next.. For $70 I’d say the quality control and build is not upto the mark.
This was supposed to make brake bleeding a lot easier but I spent 2hrs just getting the damn thing to work as it should. Hopefully it will last a few more brake bleed jobs.
Also have a small leak where the gauge attaches which I need to fix next.. For $70 I’d say the quality control and build is not upto the mark.
This was supposed to make brake bleeding a lot easier but I spent 2hrs just getting the damn thing to work as it should. Hopefully it will last a few more brake bleed jobs.