Dang 2 year old battery is going..... "I'm not dead yet!"
#1
RL Community Team
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Thread Starter
Dang 2 year old battery is going..... "I'm not dead yet!"
2009 C2S 121K miles
This is really annoying..... this cold snap is deadly.... My two year old Duralast Gold (Autozone) battery is dying..... this is the 2nd Duralast to die within the warranty period for me... my wife's Lexus IS250 ate one last month... Autozone was great... took her battery in.. they attached some sort of device and it read a low voltage... they just handed me another. Now to my C2S battery.... New Year Eve it was very cold... I left the party, and the car had that scary slow "wum....wum.....zooom" start.... oh oh.... Home, I put it on the CTEK charger.... 6 hours later it still did not light the green light. I took it out and Autozone's device said it had a 100% charge. I guess the CTEK is more picky. Back in the car it went. I ran a refubish cycle on the CTEK and plug the CTEK in every night now. After a drive, it now takes about four hours on the CTEK but will now light the green. (I swear I heard the battery say "I feel happy".)
I guess I will have to wait until it is really dead to take it back. Where is that guy with the cart... 9 pence should do it.
Any estimates for how long it will take to be fully dead? If the ambient temps return above freezing, will the battery last another year? Did the refurb cycle bring it back to life?
Peace
Bruce in Philly
This is really annoying..... this cold snap is deadly.... My two year old Duralast Gold (Autozone) battery is dying..... this is the 2nd Duralast to die within the warranty period for me... my wife's Lexus IS250 ate one last month... Autozone was great... took her battery in.. they attached some sort of device and it read a low voltage... they just handed me another. Now to my C2S battery.... New Year Eve it was very cold... I left the party, and the car had that scary slow "wum....wum.....zooom" start.... oh oh.... Home, I put it on the CTEK charger.... 6 hours later it still did not light the green light. I took it out and Autozone's device said it had a 100% charge. I guess the CTEK is more picky. Back in the car it went. I ran a refubish cycle on the CTEK and plug the CTEK in every night now. After a drive, it now takes about four hours on the CTEK but will now light the green. (I swear I heard the battery say "I feel happy".)
I guess I will have to wait until it is really dead to take it back. Where is that guy with the cart... 9 pence should do it.
Any estimates for how long it will take to be fully dead? If the ambient temps return above freezing, will the battery last another year? Did the refurb cycle bring it back to life?
Peace
Bruce in Philly
Last edited by Bruce In Philly; 01-07-2018 at 11:29 AM.
#2
Rennlist Member
Bruce,
Not sure which CTEK you are using and type of battery. On my CTEK Multi US 3300, the manual recommends using the "Snowflake" Mode 14.7V/3.3A charge setting for "battery at temperatures <41F. It is also recommended for many AGM batteries...."
Not sure which CTEK you are using and type of battery. On my CTEK Multi US 3300, the manual recommends using the "Snowflake" Mode 14.7V/3.3A charge setting for "battery at temperatures <41F. It is also recommended for many AGM batteries...."
#3
Rennlist Member
Some new batteries air on the shelf for a long time. I’ve replaced bad batteries with new bad batteries. Always check for the manufacture date. I wouldn’t get anything older then 3 months. Costco has Interstate brand I believe and dates.
#4
Bruce my Interstate H49 Megatron did this exactly the same way and I wasn’t going to replace a two year old battery. I finally got sick of the charger dance in 20 degree weather and traveling with a Mac tools jumper kit. Red top 34R Optima went in last week and it’s worth it. Kick that that SLA battery on down the road. Optimas also will last twice as long. Don’t even screw with that gold top another second. Oh and it’s 30 + pounds lighter too or thereabouts.
Last edited by ALEV8; 01-09-2018 at 07:13 PM.
#5
Rennlist Member
Bruce my Interstate did this exactly the same way and I wasn’t going to replace a two year old battery. I finally got sick of the charger dance in 20 degree weather and traveling with a Mac tools jumper kit. Red top 34R Optima went in last week and it’s worth it. Kick that that SLA battery on down the road. Optimas also will last twice as long. Don’t even screw with that gold top another second. Oh and it’s 30 + pounds lighter too.
#6
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Optima 34Rs in both my 997s too. I've been using Optima since the mid 90s and never had one die before it was 5 years old. There's better tech out there - make the leap.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Had a duralast gold on my cayenne and replaced it with the h9 agm from autozone. Better much better as it held charge more, but it’s at the shop now getting a new alternator bc it kept measuring be 11.1v to 13.0v
#9
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Not based on my direct, personal experience. I have 5 in my cars (red top) and 2 in my boat (blue top). I also installed one in my old QX56 years ago that my Dad now owns, and no issue with that one either. In the Cayenne I had to use a different kind as Optima doesn't make one large enough, so it has a Napa Gold AGM in I think and H9 size.
#10
I just replaced an Interstate Megatron Plus with the same type yesterday. Being just past the 30-month free-replacement period, I only got 50% credit toward a new one, but it was a lot cheaper than buying a new battery no matter what brand.
Two years ago shortly after the battery was new, my car sat six months in the shop awaiting a new engine. I'm skeptical they put it on a trickle charger, probably just let it die and left it dead, then gave it a fast charge the day I picked it up. Then earlier this year it went back for another couple months, and then just recently was in the paint shop six weeks. When I picked it up it had a "system fault" and a bunch of unrelated codes needed clearing. Drove it home, didn't really drive it much for three weeks, tried starting it and it was completely flat, no idea how many days it had sat like that. Put my charger on it overnight (it's a Sears microprocessor one, but almost 30 years old), looked like it was taking a charge when I went to bed but was only showing 10V under load in the AM. I think the battery was pretty well damaged (sulfated) already, and/or my charger failed to trickle down and that was the coup de grace.
My next step is researching a new charger/tender. I don't want to hardwire it because I need it for my other car as well. Plus I want one that plugs in the power outlet if possible, as the frunk light stays on unless I trip the latch, which is a PITA (as is messing with the battery cover panel each time). I'll be searching the forum, but any recommendations are welcome!
Two years ago shortly after the battery was new, my car sat six months in the shop awaiting a new engine. I'm skeptical they put it on a trickle charger, probably just let it die and left it dead, then gave it a fast charge the day I picked it up. Then earlier this year it went back for another couple months, and then just recently was in the paint shop six weeks. When I picked it up it had a "system fault" and a bunch of unrelated codes needed clearing. Drove it home, didn't really drive it much for three weeks, tried starting it and it was completely flat, no idea how many days it had sat like that. Put my charger on it overnight (it's a Sears microprocessor one, but almost 30 years old), looked like it was taking a charge when I went to bed but was only showing 10V under load in the AM. I think the battery was pretty well damaged (sulfated) already, and/or my charger failed to trickle down and that was the coup de grace.
My next step is researching a new charger/tender. I don't want to hardwire it because I need it for my other car as well. Plus I want one that plugs in the power outlet if possible, as the frunk light stays on unless I trip the latch, which is a PITA (as is messing with the battery cover panel each time). I'll be searching the forum, but any recommendations are welcome!
#11
Rennlist Member
I just replaced an Interstate Megatron Plus with the same type yesterday. Being just past the 30-month free-replacement period, I only got 50% credit toward a new one, but it was a lot cheaper than buying a new battery no matter what brand.
Two years ago shortly after the battery was new, my car sat six months in the shop awaiting a new engine. I'm skeptical they put it on a trickle charger, probably just let it die and left it dead, then gave it a fast charge the day I picked it up. Then earlier this year it went back for another couple months, and then just recently was in the paint shop six weeks. When I picked it up it had a "system fault" and a bunch of unrelated codes needed clearing. Drove it home, didn't really drive it much for three weeks, tried starting it and it was completely flat, no idea how many days it had sat like that. Put my charger on it overnight (it's a Sears microprocessor one, but almost 30 years old), looked like it was taking a charge when I went to bed but was only showing 10V under load in the AM. I think the battery was pretty well damaged (sulfated) already, and/or my charger failed to trickle down and that was the coup de grace.
My next step is researching a new charger/tender. I don't want to hardwire it because I need it for my other car as well. Plus I want one that plugs in the power outlet if possible, as the frunk light stays on unless I trip the latch, which is a PITA (as is messing with the battery cover panel each time). I'll be searching the forum, but any recommendations are welcome!
Two years ago shortly after the battery was new, my car sat six months in the shop awaiting a new engine. I'm skeptical they put it on a trickle charger, probably just let it die and left it dead, then gave it a fast charge the day I picked it up. Then earlier this year it went back for another couple months, and then just recently was in the paint shop six weeks. When I picked it up it had a "system fault" and a bunch of unrelated codes needed clearing. Drove it home, didn't really drive it much for three weeks, tried starting it and it was completely flat, no idea how many days it had sat like that. Put my charger on it overnight (it's a Sears microprocessor one, but almost 30 years old), looked like it was taking a charge when I went to bed but was only showing 10V under load in the AM. I think the battery was pretty well damaged (sulfated) already, and/or my charger failed to trickle down and that was the coup de grace.
My next step is researching a new charger/tender. I don't want to hardwire it because I need it for my other car as well. Plus I want one that plugs in the power outlet if possible, as the frunk light stays on unless I trip the latch, which is a PITA (as is messing with the battery cover panel each time). I'll be searching the forum, but any recommendations are welcome!
#12
Rennlist Member
My next step is researching a new charger/tender. I don't want to hardwire it because I need it for my other car as well. Plus I want one that plugs in the power outlet if possible, as the frunk light stays on unless I trip the latch, which is a PITA (as is messing with the battery cover panel each time). I'll be searching the forum, but any recommendations are welcome!
You can buy pigtails separately and install them on multiple vehicles.
I've ruined a battery for my boat by storing it with a cheap trickle charger over the winter. Hard to beat CTEK and BatteryTender (I own both brands) with a preference to CTEK.
#13
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Try this thread. Two different ways to hard wire. https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...rger-lead.html
You can buy pigtails separately and install them on multiple vehicles.
I've ruined a battery for my boat by storing it with a cheap trickle charger over the winter. Hard to beat CTEK and BatteryTender (I own both brands) with a preference to CTEK.
You can buy pigtails separately and install them on multiple vehicles.
I've ruined a battery for my boat by storing it with a cheap trickle charger over the winter. Hard to beat CTEK and BatteryTender (I own both brands) with a preference to CTEK.
#14
Nordschleife Master
Good experience with Optimas here too. Red tops do need to be always charged, so routine use of a Ctek maintainer is necessary.