91K-Man

Hi All, The Mantis solution if you want to reduce oil temperature , which I believe is too high also, 200-210 would be nice. Install a large oil cooler in front of one of the condensors, use a Tilton oil pump, tap into a Mantis sump, 2L sump.Install oil pump in tunnel, run oil lines in the tunnel also. Then you have a low pressure oil cooling system. We use a system like that on our race Cayman, since 2006 when we built it. Oil temps 210 F on a 70 F day. Also with oil lines/oil cooler that long you get even more oil capacity. Another 1.5 L so it takes longer for the oil to get HOT.

Deep Sumps are on sale right now 20% off and in stock. Oil cooler 8x11 $150.00 Tilton oil pump $210.00

cosm3os

Funny how the answer to the problem that doesn't exist escalates to "build it into a racecar."

kisik

Totally agreed. That is a world of compromises and tread offs. I will definitely start with simple "easy reversible". I need measurable results backup by data.

cosm3os

Why don't you start with the cheapest/simplest: a $20 oil analysis from Blackstone. If your oil isn't holding up, do the next cheapest/simplest: different oil.

Hella-Buggin'

The problem as I understand it is that if the gauge is saying 250, it's closer to 300 at the bearings. The oil temp sensor is located after the oil is circulated through the engine, heat exchange cooler and back into the sump. At these temps the oil is thinned and inadequate at transferring heat away from the bearings and lubricating properly. In the 997.1 cars, the oil pump is purely RPM based and doesn't compensate for thinning like the 997.2 to maintain proper pressures. Add in the scavenger pumps compromised ability to return oil to the sump during high G loads and you start having oil starvation issues.
The key to m96/m97 longevity is keeping the oil as cool and use good oil if you track. I've been looking into external coolers as well but haven't found an elegant solution. I'm anxious to see what you come up with.

KNS

He’s not saying that at all. Engine and Oil temps in modern cars run hot to help with emissions not engine longevity. Want to make your engine last a long time (street or track)? Bring the oil temp down, especially if you already live in a hot climate.

kisik

There are some locally placed elegant solutions without external oil pimps. Mostly for 3.4 Caymans since it is a track weapon of choice now. I will start with radiators and XP type oil for now. Will probably add deep sump 2 QT. If that is not enough I will have my local Indy to fab a new oil cooler set up just like air cooled 911s have been doing for years. Yes, 997.2s have slightly better cooling arrangement but not $15k better to switch.

Macster

That is false. Lab tests have shown with a decrease in engine operating temperature engine wear goes up. In a reference I have at 210F after 60 hours engine wear was 0.0003". At 180F the wear increased 0.0005". At 155F engine wear was up to 0.001".

Modern oils are designed to operate "hot". The "40" in 0w-40 is the oil's viscosity index at 212F.

docdrs

Can this lab test be accessed on the internet. I am curious as to the wear rates above 212F and to the 250F range.

Quadcammer

Completely irrelevant given the discussion at hand

Macster

Your post certainly is.

Macster

The info I posted is from a book on automobile technology. There might be some test results online somewhere but I have not bothered to search them out.

I might add there is an emissions benefit to the engine being warm. Gasoline consumption goes up as the engine temperature decreases. So keeping the engine up in the 200F range (my Boxster's radiator fans come on when the coolant gets to 212F) not only reduces engine wear but reduces fuel consumption.

kisik

My best mentor, instructor, and a founder of this forum is always saying: we are to help each other and all are students of this sport. Please post constructive suggestions supported by facts. Nobody is saying is that my goal is to push oil below 200F. Just staying under 230F would be nice.

vern1

Well i think part of the discussion is why you would want to get to under 230 if there is nothing wrong with running at 250 (which is the point a few people were trying to make i think)?

Quadcammer

Uh, no. You are talking about wear at 155 degrees. that is completely irrelevant to a discussion of oil temps at the track. your suggestion that trying to lower oil temps is wrong because wear is higher at 155 is so misplaced its not even funny.

Go back to writing 14 paragraph diatribes on buying guides or something you understand