Newbie 997.2 Winter Storage Questions
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Newbie 997.2 Winter Storage Questions
I’m looking for a little guidance and experience as we head into winter this year. Having bought a 2012 Cayenne S last Fall as my new winter DD, I’ll be storing my 2010 4S Cab for the first this winter so I have a few questions that I’d like your guys’ thoughts on. I’ll be storing it in an indoor, secured and heated garage in a new condo complex about 10 min away from us along with my ‘68 911L, so I’m hopping you guys can help me on a few questions I’ve got. While I’ve stored our boats and our snowmobiles over the years, I’ve never stored my 997 so here are a few questions I’m hoping you guys can help me wth:
1) Unfortunately, I won’t have access to a power outlet so I won’t be able to leave it on a trickle charger/battery tender to keep the battery topped up. Any suggestions on how to make sure that I don’t end up with a dead battery in April when I pull it out of storage? I’ll be pulling the battery from the ‘68 and leaving it on a battery tender at home, but I assume that with all the onboard electronics that isn’t an option for the 997.
2) I do plan to drive it occasionally - weather permitting - over the winter months. Any suggestions for ensuring that I do more good than harm if I pull it out and drive it occasionally (other than to make sure that I get the oil up to proper temp each time I take it out)?
3) I bought the premium indoor cover to keep it clean and dust-free, but is there anything special I need to do knowing that it may sit untouched for 3-4 months? Any problems/concerns with leaving the car closed up for that long in terms of lack of interior air circulation?
Sorry for the basic questions on winter storage, but any and all help is appreciated
1) Unfortunately, I won’t have access to a power outlet so I won’t be able to leave it on a trickle charger/battery tender to keep the battery topped up. Any suggestions on how to make sure that I don’t end up with a dead battery in April when I pull it out of storage? I’ll be pulling the battery from the ‘68 and leaving it on a battery tender at home, but I assume that with all the onboard electronics that isn’t an option for the 997.
2) I do plan to drive it occasionally - weather permitting - over the winter months. Any suggestions for ensuring that I do more good than harm if I pull it out and drive it occasionally (other than to make sure that I get the oil up to proper temp each time I take it out)?
3) I bought the premium indoor cover to keep it clean and dust-free, but is there anything special I need to do knowing that it may sit untouched for 3-4 months? Any problems/concerns with leaving the car closed up for that long in terms of lack of interior air circulation?
Sorry for the basic questions on winter storage, but any and all help is appreciated
#2
Rennlist Member
1) take the battery out and put it on a tender on its own unless you will be driving it every few weeks. Be sure not to close the frunk all the way. Crack the windows a smidge.
2) see above. You’ll need to install the battery each time but any codes will clear after you drive a short ways.
3) DO NOT PUT A COVER ON A DIRTY CAR. You’ll scratch your paint up very quickly. With the cover on crack the windows an inch or two.
2) see above. You’ll need to install the battery each time but any codes will clear after you drive a short ways.
3) DO NOT PUT A COVER ON A DIRTY CAR. You’ll scratch your paint up very quickly. With the cover on crack the windows an inch or two.
#3
Rennlist Member
With an indoor cover and heated locked storage I always leave the windows down to keep the interior from getting musty. If the battery is out you can’t lock the car anyway. Leave the doors latched but not fully closed. Keeps the seals from being compressed.
Driving the car is fine but salt dust is no good and stays on the roads a long time. I’d skip the drives especially if you’ve got to reinstall the battery. A few months sitting is nothing. Full fuel and Stabil but not a must for this short a period. Put 50 PSI in the tires and if you visit the storage roll the car by hand 1/4 tire turn if you can.
Been storing the 993 for 15 years 5 months a year and these are good tips.
Driving the car is fine but salt dust is no good and stays on the roads a long time. I’d skip the drives especially if you’ve got to reinstall the battery. A few months sitting is nothing. Full fuel and Stabil but not a must for this short a period. Put 50 PSI in the tires and if you visit the storage roll the car by hand 1/4 tire turn if you can.
Been storing the 993 for 15 years 5 months a year and these are good tips.
#4
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Put the windows down a little BEFORE disconnecting the battery. Once disconnected the microswitches that make the window drop for opening the door won't work and though it will open and flex the glass, it will be hard to get closed with the window all the way up.
Now is also the tine to change the oil and filter. It will be ready for you in the spring, and you won't have acid in the oil sitting in the crankcase all winter.
Now is also the tine to change the oil and filter. It will be ready for you in the spring, and you won't have acid in the oil sitting in the crankcase all winter.
#6
Rennlist Member
So to be clear, it is okay to disconnect the battery for an extended period of time? I pulled mine off and put a trickle charger on it. I recall with my Boxster that some said one should not leave the battery disconnected fro a long period on these modern Porsches. I have always pulled and warm stored my battery from my 78 928, with no issues whatsoever. My 997.1 is now in long term winter slumber, but if I need to go back and re-connect the battery, I will do that.
#7
Rennlist Member
Yes, you're fine. I've done this and will be next week when it goes to storage. Many many others do this where power is not available in storage.
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
Google "Storing your Porsche by Pedro P. Bonilla". I believe many of his articles are in the Pelican Parts tech articles section.
#9
Rennlist Member
Put my 997.2 c2s away... First time winterizing a vehicle. After the oil change is it necessary to start and run the fresh oil through? I know it has to get hot to burn off water vapor so I just refilled the oil but never started the engine and took it out (because my insurance policy was up).
#10
Rennlist Member
[QUOTE=Jett911;14643043]Put my 997.2 c2s away... First time winterizing a vehicle. After the oil change is it necessary to start and run the fresh oil through? I know it has to get hot to burn off water vapor so I just refilled the oil but never started the engine and took it out (because my insurance policy was up).[/QUOT
Warm it up just long enough to verify that your oil level is correct - via the on board computer. Follow the owners manual. You do NOT want to overfill.
Warm it up just long enough to verify that your oil level is correct - via the on board computer. Follow the owners manual. You do NOT want to overfill.
#11
Drifting
Pulling the battery is fine (assuming you will just park it for 3 months ). IF you pull/disconnect the battery - DO NOT close the frunk, in fact put something in the way to prevent it from accidentally being closed... unless you have tested and mastered the art of powering and popping the frunk from the special post inside the fuse panel first. I'd make sure I understand how that fuse panel process works, test it out first, and THEN close the frunk.
#12
Rennlist Member
[QUOTE=bheit1;14645278]
Thanks for the reply. My question was intended to be whether or not I should do that or wait until Spring to start it and top it off (I left out the last quart). Since I will not be able to get the engine HOT, I was concerned about issues with creating moisture prior to the engine sitting for 3-4 months.
To the OP, a list I found on the forum regarding winterization:Detail (wash, clay and wax) car
Condition leather
Clean and re-seal cab roof
Oil change
Stabil fuel stabillizer
Full tank of non-ethanol gas
Inflate tires to 52 psi
Parking brake off
Block wheels to keep from rolling
Indoor car cover
Battery tender (Porsche or CTEK) plugged into cigarette lighter
Dessicant (silica) in interior and trunk --- I bought DampRid at Home Depot
Seats full forward (springs off tension in manual seats)
Steel wool in exhaust tips --- I put masking tape over mine
Remove all but theft, fire, vandalism insurance
Rodent repeller (plug in) in garage ---- I put mousetraps with peanut butter around the perimeter
Roll car few inches every 2-3 weeks
Put my 997.2 c2s away... First time winterizing a vehicle. After the oil change is it necessary to start and run the fresh oil through? I know it has to get hot to burn off water vapor so I just refilled the oil but never started the engine and took it out (because my insurance policy was up).[/QUOT
Warm it up just long enough to verify that your oil level is correct - via the on board computer. Follow the owners manual. You do NOT want to overfill.
Warm it up just long enough to verify that your oil level is correct - via the on board computer. Follow the owners manual. You do NOT want to overfill.
To the OP, a list I found on the forum regarding winterization:Detail (wash, clay and wax) car
Condition leather
Clean and re-seal cab roof
Oil change
Stabil fuel stabillizer
Full tank of non-ethanol gas
Inflate tires to 52 psi
Parking brake off
Block wheels to keep from rolling
Indoor car cover
Battery tender (Porsche or CTEK) plugged into cigarette lighter
Dessicant (silica) in interior and trunk --- I bought DampRid at Home Depot
Seats full forward (springs off tension in manual seats)
Steel wool in exhaust tips --- I put masking tape over mine
Remove all but theft, fire, vandalism insurance
Rodent repeller (plug in) in garage ---- I put mousetraps with peanut butter around the perimeter
Roll car few inches every 2-3 weeks