Paging Macster: keeper of the pre-purchase checklist
06-21-2017, 10:48 PM
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Paging Macster: keeper of the pre-purchase checklist
I'm looking at a '98 Boxter tomorrow; would like to know of anything specific to look out for (i think you own one?). I'll be googling tonight but appreciate a heads up on any common issues to avoid
111,000 miles - $5500
Viewing the car at 3pm mountain time.
111,000 miles - $5500
Viewing the car at 3pm mountain time.
06-22-2017, 10:36 AM
#2
Advanced
Thread Starter
https://www.autotrader.com/car-shopping/buying-a-used-porsche-boxster-everything-you-need-to-know-240380
The last section is helpful. Nice summary of things to look for
The last section is helpful. Nice summary of things to look for
06-22-2017, 11:25 AM
#3
Race Director
Sorry, was kind of short time yesterday and didn't make my usual visits...
I'll put something here but send you a copy via mail...
Here's a cut/paste of something I wrote regarding a Boxster check out:
What to watch out for? Everything. The Boxster is just a used car and a thorough used car check out can go a long way to helping you "know" the car.
Visit the car cold and be sure the CEL comes on when you turn the key on and goes off when you start the engine. Let the cold engine idle -- turn off the A/C for now -- while you walk around the car. Look at body panel fits and finish. Check the age of the tires. Porsche considers tires to be past their replace by date after 6 years. If the tires are not N-rated and matching you probably want to budget for new tires. If the tread wear is uneven budget for an alignment after having new tires mounted.
Check brake rotor condition. A 1mm lip around the edge of the rotor is a sign the rotor is worn out and new rotors and pads and other hardware will be needed.
Brake fluid (and if a manual clutch fluid) flush/bleed should be done at this time. This is due every 2 years.
Check the radiator ducts. If trash present and it wiil be budget for a front bumper cover removal to get that trash out.
If the radiators are full of trash odds are the body water drains are too. Bring along a Torx tool bit set (get the security bit set) and use the tool to remove the screw that holds the panel on either side of the battery -- under the front trunk lid -- so you can view the front body water drains. If the trash is there get this cleaned out first thing if you buy the car. If the trash is wet, or worse, water is standing in the basin you probably want to walk away. Water can overflow into the cabin and the security module is located on the cabin floor under the passenger seat and this gets wet.
To check the rear body water drain have the seller put the top in its "service position" and view the rear body water drains, one on each side of the car under the area the clamshell arms cover.
All the while you do whatever you do keep an ear tuned to the engine. It should not make any knocks, ticks, or other sounds other than those of a healthy engine. The idle should be smooth and shortly after you start the engine the idle speed should drop to near its normal hot idle level. The idle speed should be pretty stable.
Check the top. The window is glass so it should be clear and unscratched. The canvas top covering should be smooth. If it looks like it had bubbles under it this is a sign the rubber sheet under the canvas cover -- and it is the rubber sheet that seals the cabin from the elements -- is deterioating. A new factory top can run to $3K (I was quoted $2600 with a substantial discount for my 2002 Boxster top. I went with an aftermarket top for around $1400.)
After some stationary checks then have the seller take you on a test ride. The route wants to be 15 miles long (at least) and selected to give the driver a chance to demo the car as you intend to drive it.
Stop and go driving. Boulevard cruising. Once the engine is fully warmed up then a hard acceleration run up through 2 gears then some highway miles. You want a real mix.
Back at the starting point change seats and drive the car over teh same route the same way.
The clutch will have a rather high engagement point -- normal for these cars -- but the engagment should be very smooth. The clutch pedal effort should not be high but you need exposure to other examples to know what's normal.
Shifting the 5-speed is based on my experience very sweet. That is one smooth/fast shifting transmission. However, I can also tell you based on my experience if the brake/clutch fluid is past its change by date this can -- believe it or not -- affect the clutch operation *and* the shifting.
At some point put the transmission in 4th or 5th gear at around 2K and floor the gas pedal and hold for a while. You want to check if the clutch slips.
Back at the starting point if you still like the car give every system a check out. From the headlights to tail lights, brake lights. The spoiler. Let the engine idle and be sure the radiator fans come on and both blow hot air and the same amount. The engine compartment fan will probably come on and be sure it runs and blows a good amount of air out the bottom of the engine compartment.
Use your nose. You should not smell raw fuel or anti-freeze. If you do there's a fuel or coolant leak.
Might add the engine should still be free of any "scary" noises at this point as well as at any other time during the check out.
After all the above then ideally you want a PPI which among other things gets the car in the air so a thorough check for any leak sign can be made. Every gasket, seal, o-ring, CV boot, hydraulic line, line fitting, hose, hose connection, oil/water heat exchangers, radiator, steering rack lines and so on need to be checked for oil or water or other fluid leak sign.
A leaking water pump or radiator is not the end of the world but you have to factor the cost of addressing these or any other issues into your offer price.
Couple of things to close with. Price is not fact only an opinion.
And if you find something "wrong" with the car walk away. There is always another car.
I'll put something here but send you a copy via mail...
Here's a cut/paste of something I wrote regarding a Boxster check out:
What to watch out for? Everything. The Boxster is just a used car and a thorough used car check out can go a long way to helping you "know" the car.
Visit the car cold and be sure the CEL comes on when you turn the key on and goes off when you start the engine. Let the cold engine idle -- turn off the A/C for now -- while you walk around the car. Look at body panel fits and finish. Check the age of the tires. Porsche considers tires to be past their replace by date after 6 years. If the tires are not N-rated and matching you probably want to budget for new tires. If the tread wear is uneven budget for an alignment after having new tires mounted.
Check brake rotor condition. A 1mm lip around the edge of the rotor is a sign the rotor is worn out and new rotors and pads and other hardware will be needed.
Brake fluid (and if a manual clutch fluid) flush/bleed should be done at this time. This is due every 2 years.
Check the radiator ducts. If trash present and it wiil be budget for a front bumper cover removal to get that trash out.
If the radiators are full of trash odds are the body water drains are too. Bring along a Torx tool bit set (get the security bit set) and use the tool to remove the screw that holds the panel on either side of the battery -- under the front trunk lid -- so you can view the front body water drains. If the trash is there get this cleaned out first thing if you buy the car. If the trash is wet, or worse, water is standing in the basin you probably want to walk away. Water can overflow into the cabin and the security module is located on the cabin floor under the passenger seat and this gets wet.
To check the rear body water drain have the seller put the top in its "service position" and view the rear body water drains, one on each side of the car under the area the clamshell arms cover.
All the while you do whatever you do keep an ear tuned to the engine. It should not make any knocks, ticks, or other sounds other than those of a healthy engine. The idle should be smooth and shortly after you start the engine the idle speed should drop to near its normal hot idle level. The idle speed should be pretty stable.
Check the top. The window is glass so it should be clear and unscratched. The canvas top covering should be smooth. If it looks like it had bubbles under it this is a sign the rubber sheet under the canvas cover -- and it is the rubber sheet that seals the cabin from the elements -- is deterioating. A new factory top can run to $3K (I was quoted $2600 with a substantial discount for my 2002 Boxster top. I went with an aftermarket top for around $1400.)
After some stationary checks then have the seller take you on a test ride. The route wants to be 15 miles long (at least) and selected to give the driver a chance to demo the car as you intend to drive it.
Stop and go driving. Boulevard cruising. Once the engine is fully warmed up then a hard acceleration run up through 2 gears then some highway miles. You want a real mix.
Back at the starting point change seats and drive the car over teh same route the same way.
The clutch will have a rather high engagement point -- normal for these cars -- but the engagment should be very smooth. The clutch pedal effort should not be high but you need exposure to other examples to know what's normal.
Shifting the 5-speed is based on my experience very sweet. That is one smooth/fast shifting transmission. However, I can also tell you based on my experience if the brake/clutch fluid is past its change by date this can -- believe it or not -- affect the clutch operation *and* the shifting.
At some point put the transmission in 4th or 5th gear at around 2K and floor the gas pedal and hold for a while. You want to check if the clutch slips.
Back at the starting point if you still like the car give every system a check out. From the headlights to tail lights, brake lights. The spoiler. Let the engine idle and be sure the radiator fans come on and both blow hot air and the same amount. The engine compartment fan will probably come on and be sure it runs and blows a good amount of air out the bottom of the engine compartment.
Use your nose. You should not smell raw fuel or anti-freeze. If you do there's a fuel or coolant leak.
Might add the engine should still be free of any "scary" noises at this point as well as at any other time during the check out.
After all the above then ideally you want a PPI which among other things gets the car in the air so a thorough check for any leak sign can be made. Every gasket, seal, o-ring, CV boot, hydraulic line, line fitting, hose, hose connection, oil/water heat exchangers, radiator, steering rack lines and so on need to be checked for oil or water or other fluid leak sign.
A leaking water pump or radiator is not the end of the world but you have to factor the cost of addressing these or any other issues into your offer price.
Couple of things to close with. Price is not fact only an opinion.
And if you find something "wrong" with the car walk away. There is always another car.
