Carlo_Carrera

Knock on wood, my pump/tank are fine. I was just curious. Thanks for the info.

Also by chance did the new tank come a green plastic info label on the pressure relief cap? If yes, you do still have the old label? And do you want sell one of the green labels to me?

mffarrell

I just ordered mine, so I am not sure.

Maybe Dan could chime in.

911mhawk

You gotta pay the "expedite" fee, or order a bunch of stuff!

mffarrell

Ok, good to know thanks!

danspach

Sorry....no clue on that one.

If we find a source, I'd like one too.


- Dave

(I just realized I don't have a signature line like I do with other forums.)

s65e90

Yes the new tank comes with the green tag. Carbone Liveries makes OEM stickers, ID tags, etc. Maybe they would be able to reproduce them if enough interest.

mffarrell

Does the ps system need to be bled after replacing the ps reservoir? If so, is there a procedure?

Thanks!

32krazy!

it will self bleed. fill the res up and turn the steering wheel lock to lock a few times check the level do this a few times and you should be fine.

mffarrell

Thanks 32!

mrtoro

I am aware this is a very old thread and most reservoirs have been updated by now. Mine wasn’t. Had to pay the more inflated price for the reservoir, $1100. I am in the middle of this work and wanted to share an incredible time saver for anyone else who might need to complete this job.

The culprit for the tea kettle whistle is the valve which is on the upper part of the reservoir. I don’t see why anyone would need to remove the entire reservoir, lower half of the reservoir is the metal canister. nothing can go wrong with it. Skip removing the air box and Ypipe. Those parts need to removed so you can get to the three bolts that mount the lower half of their reservoir. Skip removing the lower half. Remove the four hydraulic lines. Remove the four torx bolts. Take the upper part of the brand new reservoir you received in the mail. Swap the upper parts. Should be a 30 minute job. You don’t even need to worry about pentosin as all the fluid is safely held in the lower part of the reservoir.

mffarrell

I thought about replacing mine per your process, but I didn’t want to open the new reservoir just in case…

TeCKis300

What's the symptoms of needing to replace this and is it required?

I think I get a high pitched whine largely on cold start which I think is more the secondary air pump.

I'm getting fluid transfer from the PS reservoir to the frunk clutch reservoir and it's overflowing. Is that just the clutch slave?

My clutch is also slipping but I think it's just worn after 30k miles at ~600hp.

mffarrell

My original reservoir made a whistling noise like a tea pot. Replaced it with the 997 version 7 years a go.

Lazurus

Your start-up whine is not like the tea kettle whistle of the failing valve in the P.S. reservoir. That "whistle" only occurs if the valve is failing and when "hot". That's how you'll know it's "teatime". Pressing the clutch eliminates the whine.

The recent post outlining how simple it is to replace just the valve rather than the entire reservoir is helpful In my case years ago, the reservoir was replaced under warranty and was years before the mother of invention necessitated any DIY short-cuts. But that post regarding just removing the failed part is really helpful info. Props for ingenuity.

As to your fluid migration into the frunk, your hunch that it's a failing clutch slave is highly probable. Although if your clutch is already ( only 30k miles? ) slipping, then you clearly have other ( clutch or associated ) parts failing. Clutch slip as you know requires inspection of all of "it". But, buy a new slave & accumulator and master cylinder and all the component parts associated to save yourself some grief if you only swap the clutch.

Was yours a stock OEM Sachs after some power add on mods? I ask because 600 crank HP is just, but barely above, the capability of the stock clutch if not thrashed by ones driving style. I was once able to keep a stock OEM Sachs for about 75/80k miles with just the usual bolt on's nearing 550hp or so. But then, it's the Tq that kills them.

TeCKis300

Thanks, that helps. It's not the PS tea kettle whistle then.

I have the SRE 764 pressure plate with GT3 solid disk clutch. I'm on A28s turbos at 1.3 bar so yes, it's likely the torque that's stressing it. Stock clutch had no chance holding.

Don't love doing the clutch, but that looks to be in my future.