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Is this something I can go in my driveway or I need a lift ? Do I need to remove the motor mounts and just lower it a few or the trans has to be separated from Engine? Are there 2 valves or 3 total? What was your issue for changing them? Curious if it's the same as me....Thank you for the heads up. Might need to bring her in.....Joe
Originally Posted by powdrhound
I have all the valves in the front right fender if you need those. To change the purge valve in the engine compartment you simply need to drop the engine a couple of inches. I did this a few weeks ago. There is no way to reach this without a drop.
You can drop the motor a few inches without having the car on the lift. support the engine with a jack and remove the nuts from the engine mounts. You can then slowly lower the engine.
while the two monitors ( evap & cats ) staying in "not ready" mode seem to be the most problematic, when re-setting you'll need to determine the cause of the cels. here in CA you cannot have had "recent" cels let alone any active cels in order to pass a smog test.
irrespective of the code you have you'll need to both "drive cycle "reset" as jhbrennan suggests but also have driven long enough ( 100 miles min? ) in order the obd reader at the smog tester doesn't show a "recently" cleared cel. if your car is difficult to start and keeps throwing cels, then presumably you have issues that probably need to be resolved before you pass smog. but thats just a "guess".
the whole thing can be a daunting process. in case you don't know it, here's the BMW drive cycle reset protocol which is the same for our cars. sometimes it works? and sometimes it leaves the ( evap and cats ) still "not ready" as has recently happened to me.
do you know/remember the reset protocol? it's a pita but try it first, is what i would do.
here it is: follow it to the letter or it will not work.
Start engine, let idle for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Then:
Idle in Neutral for 5 mins. (manual trans.)
During the drive cycle, do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph.
I still don't understand why I never need to do the drive cycle. All of my readiness monitors always show PASS even when I have a CEL. Must be something with my tune that forces all of them to PASS no matter what. I just fixed the broken wire going to the EVAP valve, the CEL extinguished and I drove to get my emission test done today. Simple OBD test which showed everything as PASS. They also checked the gas cap and looked to see that there is no CEL displayed. They never checked under the car for cats and did not even open the engine bay lid. The whole process took about 5 minutes most of which was them taking pictures of the car. I asked them for the criteria and apparently all engine readiness monitors must show pass and no CEL can be present.
you were lucky john, as i just recently went thru hell w the drive cycle, but it was because i re-installed the cats, and then compounded by the fact i was unable to sequentially complete the "cycle" in the prescribed order.
but it turns out, there is ( thankfully ) more than one way to skin a cat *not ready* monitor! or else the car might be parked with a current certification of "non operation" ha.
Thank you Hawk! I need that and its a lot of info! I'm gonna hunt that valve down and change it out! I see theres another valve right in the same housing. It looks like theres 2 cut off valves. one in the valve housing and one in the carbon canister? Im sure its a good idea to replace all of them while I'm in there? Thanks again, I would have never found it unless i had that pic..... Joe
You bet, glad to see you're getting along with working on the car yourself.
I tend to replace more than necessary at times "while I'm in there".
If the parts aren't expensive and would be a pain to get at again, chances are I'll replace it on an older car.
Vacuum lines, check valves, zip ties, etc. are cheap and save you from going back in for bs you should have just done.
Get it to pass inspection, spend an initial hundred hours or so online researching the type of car you now own and you'll have a good handle on things
Tell more about your car like mileage, mods if any, records of service/repair/parts replaced, etc. and you'll get lots of help here.
I figured I would try to to attempt The Drive Cycle but when I checked the monitors there was still 2 inc. No check eng lite yet but Evap system monitor inc also catalyst system inc. I tested both valves under right fender and tested good also changed the fuel vent valve and new gas cap. She runs so strong but need to pass my inspection. Im still trying to find the engine Purge valve for vuel canister and regeneration valve located by alternator? Do I need to take the air box out? Thanks to all who have helped me so far.....
Amazing machine just do want to bring it in if I can help it. Thanks JoeThese are the two incompleted monitors.
Originally Posted by "02996ttx50
while the two monitors ( evap & cats ) staying in "not ready" mode seem to be the most problematic, when re-setting you'll need to determine the cause of the cels. here in CA you cannot have had "recent" cels let alone any active cels in order to pass a smog test.
irrespective of the code you have you'll need to both "drive cycle "reset" as jhbrennan suggests but also have driven long enough ( 100 miles min? ) in order the obd reader at the smog tester doesn't show a "recently" cleared cel. if your car is difficult to start and keeps throwing cels, then presumably you have issues that probably need to be resolved before you pass smog. but thats just a "guess".
the whole thing can be a daunting process. in case you don't know it, here's the BMW drive cycle reset protocol which is the same for our cars. sometimes it works? and sometimes it leaves the ( evap and cats ) still "not ready" as has recently happened to me.
do you know/remember the reset protocol? it's a pita but try it first, is what i would do.
here it is: follow it to the letter or it will not work.
Start engine, let idle for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Then:
Idle in Neutral for 5 mins. (manual trans.)
During the drive cycle, do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph.
i feel your pain. i just went thru this EXACT same headache with my car last smog test.
some say the drive cycle needs not only to be followed to the "letter", but also fully completed ( from start to finish ) a cpl times. that was not my previous experience four years ago, when i had "not ready" monitors and they all "set" the first "drive cycle reset".
more recently i was engaged in the "drive cycle from hell" that lasted over 600 miles and finally cats were "ready, while the "EVAP" never going "ready" but that being the only item "not ready" that is "still" allowable ( but for how long?? ) in California.
the irony is a porsche dealership would be having this same issue! they HATE trying to reset a customer car. there is a way to "hard/force" reset the monitors but i don't know it and couldn't share it if i did. but it might well be an "option" though. this depends on your level of fortitude, patience, and resourcefulness in finding someone that can ( will ) do it.
HI fpb111, i lowered my motor this weekend and i could not find the purge valve in the engine. i did find valve 16 and 14 in the link you sent me?Is that what your talking about?
#14-996 110 129 72 vent valve
#16-996 110 135 70 check valve
is this the two valves your talking about. i removed the charcoal canister to verify I'm not missing and valves inside it. I'm so wanting to fix this myself and i feel I'm so close. Thank in advance, Joe NY
The protocol you guys are speaking of just sounds like bull****. Why would Porsche engineers make it so difficult to perform? It does not sound like something any engineer would concoct. Simply my opinion. If it works, than it works.
Do you have a tune? I bought my car in FL and failed when I got back to NY. The EPL tune had the parameters set so that three monitors, (cat, O2 Heater, and EVAP) would never appear ready. I contacted EPL and they loaded a new file. I drove 5 miles and all monitors were set. I never did have a cell though. You can pass in NY with one monitor not set.
Do you have a tune? I bought my car in FL and failed when I got back to NY. The EPL tune had the parameters set so that three monitors, (cat, O2 Heater, and EVAP) would never appear ready. I contacted EPL and they loaded a new file. I drove 5 miles and all monitors were set. I never did have a cell though. You can pass in NY with one monitor not set.
Not sure what you mean? How will I tell if it has EPL Tune in it? Is that an upgrade to the ECM? CHIP?
Yes that is a Chip/ECU tune. My car has a FVD tune on it and to get it to pass emissions here in Colorado FVD had to send me a new program so it would set those monitors as ready. Went right thru emissions at that point. In CO they don't care what is coming out of the pipe as long as the modules are "Ready". The silly thing is after it passed emissions I swapped exhausts and saw that at some time somebody hollowed out the cats......there was nothing in them So I passed emissions without cats. Just nuts.
The protocol you guys are speaking of just sounds like bull****. Why would Porsche engineers make it so difficult to perform? It does not sound like something any engineer would concoct. Simply my opinion. If it works, than it works.
This protocol is definitely not BS and is not specified by Porsche. It is an OBDII standard and it applies to all OBDII compliant cars. The cycle is designed to have the car perform in a wide range of different operating conditions so as to check that all systems are working properly. You can't just check to see that everything works immediately. It doesn't usually have to be performed because the average user will not disconnect their battery before having an emissions test done.
^ well put, and it works perfectly.. when it works.
actually IIRC? it's ( drive cycle reset ) known a BMW proprietary procedure, but is exactly the same for our cars. presumably, for the reasons you mention.
05-13-2017, 09:16 AM
Engine drop a few inches?
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