When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Was only kidding, I do like those V8's. I was actually thinking of going LS7 before I ended up getting the Turbo. Those C6 Z06's are lovely, so is the LS3 C6.
One thing that kept me away from the LS7 though was the valve issue.
Where do you think those mysterious slivers of aluminum come from in random oil filters? These are not coming from main or rod bearings, nor cylinder walls, not camshaft or lifter related. Maybe chains slapping against the housing?
Geesh. Not hardly.
The engine internal surface area is almost all aluminum. The crank/rods, and other steel parts don't represent that much surface compared to the engine, heads, camshaft covers, etc.
Cast aluminum is notorious for having rather small loosely attached flakes.
These are created as the molten aluminum flows into the mold. Molten aluminum is rather more fluid than you might believe.
These are small and thin pieces of aluminum that over time the action of the oil will cause to break loose and the pieces get into the oil and are carried along where they go through a scavenge pump and then -- if one finds any material in the oil filter element -- through the gear pump where they are smashed flat (much flatter than they were and they were not that thick to begin with) and break up into many smaller pieces. If one bothers to check he might find some few bits/flakes in the oil filter element.
The engine will or at least can once in a while shed these bits of aluminum until it spins its last revolution.
Well riddle me this geesh. Since you are contributing this to cast aluminum, why is it that none of the Mercedes filters I remove have these bits , slivers, pieces, parts? Are you saying that Mercedes does a better job at casting these parts? Or maybe Porsche does a poor job? Either way that's a poor excuse for what you think is happening. Wishful thinking though!
Was only kidding, I do like those V8's. I was actually thinking of going LS7 before I ended up getting the Turbo. Those C6 Z06's are lovely, so is the LS3 C6.
One thing that kept me away from the LS7 though was the valve issue.
I think they can be great track motors, the 434ci ls2 in my NASA ST1 car makes a easy non stressed 510 RWHP (I race it on 91 pump gas) It even broke a timing chain mid race once and didn't even damage the motor. I have those LS7 heads on mine with just a couple of upgrades and have had no problems with them. I wouldn't swap one into turbo of course but I will no problem dropping my LS6 I have into my sons high mile 951. I love the noises of the turbo motor especially on a hard pull!
Was only kidding, I do like those V8's. I was actually thinking of going LS7 before I ended up getting the Turbo. Those C6 Z06's are lovely, so is the LS3 C6.
One thing that kept me away from the LS7 though was the valve issue.
No worries, I have been doing these swaps for years, and have done 18 of them. Everything from rx7s to m3s to Mercedes r126 and 129. In each case the people who love these cars think I am committing a war crime. When I did the third gen Rx7 in 2000 those people really got their panties in a bunch, now it's a common swap that really improves the car in reliability and performance. If done correctly it improves this car as well. And best of all it is really quiet at an idle, and the coolant tubes don't pop out.
Bloody hell ,, two years of angst ,,, exhaust in and out,,the rattle ,,, turns out to be the part number 996 115 661 72. A thin protector plate that separates water pump hose and the fan belt going around the crank pulley. There are four screws that due to age ,, salt ,, gets eroded and comes apart. Worth checking .
My car sounds normal again apart, from Mezger symptoms.
Someone a couple years ago on this forum tore the mezger engine down to address this issue. He did everything he could think of, even used GT2 IMS gears etc, chain tensioners, new IMS bearings, etc with other things! Started it up noise was there!
Moral of the story, its not an issue, lets just put all this to bed!
My engine was "quietish" before rebuild, now loud as hell. Only mechanical difference is the oil pump, being now the GT3 one. Oil's Mobil 5w-50, but I might try 0w or 5w-40 next.
__________________
Pete
Power. Lots is good, more is better, too much is just right...
'87 951, RIP '00 996 C2 L92U AQ / IXAA IXRB IX54 M96/7.xx G96/7.88 M030 M375 M376 M436 M476 M601 M983 ... + 991 GT3 brakes, 997 GT3 sway bars, fully monoball'd suspension, Bilstein Cup Car coilovers, do88 Big Pack ICs. 10 & 12 x 19" BBS CH-R wheels with 265/30 & 325 /30 -19 MPSC2s.
timely mention of "noise". after shoveling 4 feet of snow off the top of the car this AM and realizing i had a nearly dying battery i let it idle for a good 1/2 hour to warm it up and melt ice etc and was shocked at how it just purred. fresh m1 5/50 @171k miles.
mezger motored porsche turbos are an engineering marvel.
oh yeah. new battery swapped with a 1/21 mfg date sticker lol
Hello Everyone, the thread has been very quiet, which I suppose is a good thing.
I am writing this only to see if there are any developments on the subject, I have only been able to drive my car about 1,500 miles since the last post and in preparation to drive it as a daily, I took it in for an oil change to find that 3 shops refused to do the job stating that they did not want to touch if for the liability if something went wrong after the change 🤦🏻♂️
Does anyone have new information on this noise? Has anyone heard of a noisy car having an engine failure?
Hello Everyone, the thread has been very quiet, which I suppose is a good thing.
I am writing this only to see if there are any developments on the subject, I have only been able to drive my car about 1,500 miles since the last post and in preparation to drive it as a daily, I took it in for an oil change to find that 3 shops refused to do the job stating that they did not want to touch if for the liability if something went wrong after the change 🤦🏻♂️
Does anyone have new information on this noise? Has anyone heard of a noisy car having an engine failure?
Thank you for your comments.
I own a 80K mile 2002 X50 modified Twin Turbo and the engine noise/rattle was so loud and annoying it was embarrassing. Cold or warm, all I heard was the ticky ticky ticky coming from the center of the engine.
I own a Porsche restoration and service shop so (in my spare time) I pulled the engine and disassembled it only to find that the rearmost sprocket on the IMS shaft was loose and rocking back and forth. I could actually move it by hand. Porsche seemed to have machined the IMS shaft a bit too small enabling the sprocket to move wearing the keyway and galling the shaft. I ended up grabbing a spare IMS shaft from a 911 SC, drilling and tapping the end for the drive for the oil sump, installed the original steel gear and pressed the sprockets back on. I also put new ramps and chains in, along with ARP rod bolts, bearings etc. Rebuilding the engine was a pain compared to the old air cooled engines, tons of un layering just to even get to the block, and also tons of special tools were necessary. But, the engine is a quiet as it should be now so the effort was worth it. So if anyone has this type of situation it's not something that will cause a catastrophic failure, just more of an irritation having to listen to it.
I own a 80K mile 2002 X50 modified Twin Turbo and the engine noise/rattle was so loud and annoying it was embarrassing. Cold or warm, all I heard was the ticky ticky ticky coming from the center of the engine.
I own a Porsche restoration and service shop so (in my spare time) I pulled the engine and disassembled it only to find that the rearmost sprocket on the IMS shaft was loose and rocking back and forth. I could actually move it by hand. Porsche seemed to have machined the IMS shaft a bit too small enabling the sprocket to move wearing the keyway and galling the shaft. I ended up grabbing a spare IMS shaft from a 911 SC, drilling and tapping the end for the drive for the oil sump, installed the original steel gear and pressed the sprockets back on. I also put new ramps and chains in, along with ARP rod bolts, bearings etc. Rebuilding the engine was a pain compared to the old air cooled engines, tons of un layering just to even get to the block, and also tons of special tools were necessary. But, the engine is a quiet as it should be now so the effort was worth it. So if anyone has this type of situation it's not something that will cause a catastrophic failure, just more of an irritation having to listen to it.
Good evening, thank you so much for this information, this is the first time that I read something that makes sense and for that I am very grateful.
Quick question and not that I am considering doing so but how much would you think is the cost of doing the job?
I own a 80K mile 2002 X50 modified Twin Turbo and the engine noise/rattle was so loud and annoying it was embarrassing. Cold or warm, all I heard was the ticky ticky ticky coming from the center of the engine.
I own a Porsche restoration and service shop so (in my spare time) I pulled the engine and disassembled it only to find that the rearmost sprocket on the IMS shaft was loose and rocking back and forth. I could actually move it by hand. Porsche seemed to have machined the IMS shaft a bit too small enabling the sprocket to move wearing the keyway and galling the shaft. I ended up grabbing a spare IMS shaft from a 911 SC, drilling and tapping the end for the drive for the oil sump, installed the original steel gear and pressed the sprockets back on. I also put new ramps and chains in, along with ARP rod bolts, bearings etc. Rebuilding the engine was a pain compared to the old air cooled engines, tons of un layering just to even get to the block, and also tons of special tools were necessary. But, the engine is a quiet as it should be now so the effort was worth it. So if anyone has this type of situation it's not something that will cause a catastrophic failure, just more of an irritation having to listen to it.
I randomly came across this post and was wondering if either @993GT or @powdrhound has seen a loose rear gear on the IMS during an engine rebuild like this fellow did?
typically its the main drive gear that can get loose(bolted on with stock IMS) but if the wrong circlip(different thicknesses used by Porsche) is used or machining tolerances were wrong on the chain drives it could as well
What 993GT said. I will say that I've never heard of the IMS gear bolts coming loose on a 6TT/GT2. I think it happened once on a 997TT if I recall. It's extremely rare and I wouldn't loose sleep over it.
With that said, the marbles in a can rattle you hear on basically all 6TT/GT2 is a result of the different harmonics these engine have due to the heavier TT crankshaft on these motors. There is nothing you can really do about it. My stock 3.6TT Mezger had the rattle. The same engine rebuilt as a 3.8 turbo Mezger used the ligher RSR crankshaft and the stock TT IMS and there was no rattle. My current 4.0 uses the latest version 991Cup crankshaft along with the RSR IMS and it also does not have any rattle associated with it and both the engine and gearbox are hard mounted to the chassis. The 4.0 is even quiter than the 3.8 was but all the pistons/wristpins are matched within 1g of each other.
None of the Mezger GT3 or Cup engine have the rattle you hear on the TT. They all use some form of the RSR/GT3 crank. Long story short, don't worry about the noise (unless it noticeably changes) and drive the car.
Last edited by powdrhound; 05-28-2023 at 02:45 PM.
04-07-2017, 08:14 PM
