jpflip

Agree with Chris!!! Strange evaluation going in different directions....Replacing both camshaft actuators for a valve lift problem ???? Valve lift can be troubleshoot by looking at electric signal to the actuators and can be test easily with a PST2 or PIWIS or Durametric, all this before taking the engine out!!!!

uwrasta

This may clear some things up or make things more confusing. The owner sent me this text last Wednesday. I didn't think much of it but might or might not explain.

This is a direct copy and past of the text message::

Update on car: next Tuesday delivery (I pick up tues pm) confirming I had the actuators replaced as well more as a preventive maintenance for the future. These things go eventually. So while the engine was out, I took care of it. Along with the major service done last year, this thing should be right and tight. More to follow as I hear new info

jpflip

The posting has been deleted by its author. UWRASTA did you bought it?

uwrasta

Works not done yet. Supposed to be done Tuesday. This is another direct text quote. Maybe it's bs or???? But again I didn't think much of it. maybe others chime in about the actuator statement in the text:

Update: insurance inspector approved the lifters. Joe also told me the actuators could use replacing. Not a "need to have" but he said I should take care of it since the engine is out. I agreed to replace the two actuators as well. This way, the issue won't bite you down the road. They are looking to finish everything by Friday. so...in excited to get the car back. I'm honestly craving to drive it

T10Chris

It will throw codes and go into limp mode, eventually. Maybe not right away. When I was having that issue and troubleshooting it, I could clear the codes with my durametric and it would run fine again, until it didn't; the bank 2 actuator was failing intermittently on my car. Which could be the next drive, or the next 30 miles, or the next week... Judging by the codes, I think the bank 1 lift actuator is bad on this car... It doesn't hurt to replace the timing actuators, which they are doing, since those are impossible to replace with engine in the car, but I just don't think they are changing the right ones out.

As far as identifying the problem, it will probably drive fine at low-mid rpm, and low-mid throttle position, and it may take a few WOT pulls and variocam change over points for it to trigger the faults. When it realizes the variocam actuator isn't creating the correct effects based on data the computer gets back from the sensors, it triggers the misfire faults and will go into limp mode until you turn the car off and back on again and it resets, when it will drive fine again.

It isn't going to fall apart if this is the issue.. It's a couple hundred bucks for a lift actuator and is no more difficult than changing spark plugs to replace it.

T10Chris

Yeah, there are 4 total actuators and they are replacing the 2 that are not related to valve lift fault.. Odd...

My actuators would get signal with activations on durametric, they would change idle or could hear them click when car is off. Had to watch live data and compare to another functioning car to realize something was off.

T10Chris

uwrasta- I live in Bellevue not far from Cantrell/work in Redmond, if you want a 2nd set of unbiased eyes on it I'd be happy to help you look over the car before or after PPI also.

Carlo_Carrera

That what I am thinking. It could also just be a cracked variocam solenoid bracket. It is a $20 part and two-three hours of labor to fix.

T10Chris

Yep. This was my first thought on my problem. Then when it wasn't cracked, that is when some of the threads say "oh if it has those faults and no cracked bracket you need a rebuild"

Hopefully the shop will realize the bracket is cracked if that is the case. Maybe they knew it all along and the car is put together and the shop owner is enjoying it for a bit

uwrasta if you buy the car and it needs a new bracket I have a couple of spares that are in good shape, just took them off of my car and put fresh brackets on when I changed my actuators.

uwrasta

I would love to have you come over. I'll pm you my contact info!!!!

Third-Reef

So the brackets can be cracked and it causes a miss fire and some have said a stumble. But the solenoid does not leak oil? Just wondering because I have unresolved hickup/stumble and was wondering if the bracket/actuator could be the cause. How do you you check these, remove the heat shield and try to look in there? I have used the durametric to actuate them and I get a repeatable speed change.

jpflip

Good thread on the subject here: http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...-brackets.html

also here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

FRUNKenstein

So if the shop is wrong and it's a $300 fix to make it right, why is anyone saying to run away from a $32k X50 6 speed with a clear title in otherwise good condition? Salvage title value on that car "as is" right now is easily $25k+.

Carlo_Carrera

Yes, remove the heat shield. The bracket is right there In between the spark plugs. Two 10mm bolts hold in place.






If the brackets are fine there is a way to bench test the solenoids. I have not a bench test but I think some others here have. Maybe someone will chime in with that procedure.

Are you getting any codes?

jeanmarcboilard

Could be a $30, $300, or $3000 fix. The only way I'm betting $32k on an unsorted car like that is if Markski, Sam, or Kevin is doing the PPI. Might be a good deal for a professional DIYer but it's still a gamble.
I'm interested to hear the outcome on this one.