spoiler
02-05-2017, 07:40 AM
#16
Three Wheelin'
I do offer a Rennlister discount, always have. You are hearing from a few of the original beta testers now. I'm guessing there are about 25 or 50 more of them that are occasionally on this forum. I'm proud to say these guys are awesome, and in return I've never let anyone down! Email or PM me for the coupon code.
Last edited by DaveCarrera4; 02-07-2017 at 08:28 AM.
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02-07-2017, 08:26 AM
#18
Three Wheelin'
02-07-2017, 09:59 AM
#19
Burning Brakes
Got tired of bleeding system and set in up position. Insert small aluminum 4"x1/8 rod into bottom of ram where hydro fluid enters. This is a $1.50 fix until I want to spend the money. Had shop turn off spoiler light (GT2).
02-07-2017, 08:49 PM
#20
02-10-2017, 06:40 AM
#23
Three Wheelin'
looks great, and I added your pic to the testimonials page! The pin wrench is a must for the 997 turbo as those are Loctite threaded connections to the wing. There is a work around for the 996 turbo, but also a risk of damage to the shafts or bodywork. I did get chewed out by a customer for not making a case for the pin wrench, after he struggled hard with the wing removal.
02-11-2017, 08:27 PM
#26
Three Wheelin'
02-14-2017, 04:25 PM
#27
Instructor
here's the re-bleed procedure for the umpteenth time. for anyone with skill and patience lol
1. Open rear deck-lid with spoiler in down position
2. Put towels/plastic over the engine to keep fluids from dripping onto engine or body parts.
3. Remove approx. one dozen bolts that retain shroud/fan to deck-lid
4. Loosen and remove 4 retaining acorn style nuts that hold pump onto shroud
5. Cut tie wraps that retain electrical wires and hydralic lines so pump can be removed
6. Lift pump off shroud, loosen and remove banjo fittings on driver's side of pump watch for fluid to leak out and catch in a paper towel or rag. I held pump with channel locks for a good hold while loosening
7. Remove the positiive and negative wires on the opposite end of the pump.
8. Unplug sensors on passenger side ram carefully as they are sensitive. They are under a plastic cover that pulls off
9. Turn pump upside down in proper waste recepticle to empty the fluid remaining
10. With 12 volt power source, connect positive and negative to pump connectors. You will feel the torque and hear the pump motor turning, have a towel ready to catch any remaining fluids
11. With pump in hand, slowly add fluid. The Lucas product has a snout that you can cut and place into recpticle. This took approx. 20 minutes of adding, waiting for it to seep into pump, add more, wait, add more, etc...until bubbles stop coming up. Pump should then be full
12. Carefully attach banjo fittings with pump held upright. A small amount of fluid will seep when attaching banjo bolts
13. Torque the banjo bolts snug
14. Place pump onto shroud, tighten acorn nuts and connect wires
15. Connect sensors to ram (I used a tie wrap to hold sensors in place)
16. Place shroud in position on deck lid and snug up the dozen bolts
17. Tie wrap the electrical wires to the shroud
18. Actuate spoiler from dash with key on to see if you get the warning light
it works.
1. Open rear deck-lid with spoiler in down position
2. Put towels/plastic over the engine to keep fluids from dripping onto engine or body parts.
3. Remove approx. one dozen bolts that retain shroud/fan to deck-lid
4. Loosen and remove 4 retaining acorn style nuts that hold pump onto shroud
5. Cut tie wraps that retain electrical wires and hydralic lines so pump can be removed
6. Lift pump off shroud, loosen and remove banjo fittings on driver's side of pump watch for fluid to leak out and catch in a paper towel or rag. I held pump with channel locks for a good hold while loosening
7. Remove the positiive and negative wires on the opposite end of the pump.
8. Unplug sensors on passenger side ram carefully as they are sensitive. They are under a plastic cover that pulls off
9. Turn pump upside down in proper waste recepticle to empty the fluid remaining
10. With 12 volt power source, connect positive and negative to pump connectors. You will feel the torque and hear the pump motor turning, have a towel ready to catch any remaining fluids
11. With pump in hand, slowly add fluid. The Lucas product has a snout that you can cut and place into recpticle. This took approx. 20 minutes of adding, waiting for it to seep into pump, add more, wait, add more, etc...until bubbles stop coming up. Pump should then be full
12. Carefully attach banjo fittings with pump held upright. A small amount of fluid will seep when attaching banjo bolts
13. Torque the banjo bolts snug
14. Place pump onto shroud, tighten acorn nuts and connect wires
15. Connect sensors to ram (I used a tie wrap to hold sensors in place)
16. Place shroud in position on deck lid and snug up the dozen bolts
17. Tie wrap the electrical wires to the shroud
18. Actuate spoiler from dash with key on to see if you get the warning light
it works.
I helped Beta Test this. Just do it and be done. Worked perfect, much faster deployment, priced at about what fixing the hydraulic ones will costs but they will fail again and again. Dave has GREAT instructions and great customer service. plus you can have it go up 4" now if you want, vs the stock 2".
I do offer a Rennlister discount, always have. You are hearing from a few of the original beta testers now. I'm guessing there are about 25 or 50 more of them that are occasionally on this forum. I'm proud to say these guys are awesome, and in return I've never let anyone down! Email or PM me for the coupon code.
I might be a future customer. This is a great idea.
02-14-2017, 05:18 PM
#28
Three Wheelin'
I have the factory spoiler removal tool if you need it. I was just finishing up some testing/adjusting with my spoiler this afternoon.
Yep I did a hardware fix as well, just finished it today actually.. .except I used threaded rod so it is manually height adjustable. I've had mine locked in raised position for a while and it would sag over time and got tired of re-bleeding it constantly... completely reversible too so its a plus.
I was gonna go another route and have been slowly working on a project to keep the active wing, but decided I am going to keep it simple and just get the GT2 decklid instead.. This temp fixed turned out better than I expected. I even got another inch or two of spoiler height out of it, but adjusted it back down a little until I take the car back to the track.
I've had my spoiler light bypassed for a while, forgot how I did it, was really simple though. Didn't require reprogram or new harness or anything.
I was gonna go another route and have been slowly working on a project to keep the active wing, but decided I am going to keep it simple and just get the GT2 decklid instead.. This temp fixed turned out better than I expected. I even got another inch or two of spoiler height out of it, but adjusted it back down a little until I take the car back to the track.
I've had my spoiler light bypassed for a while, forgot how I did it, was really simple though. Didn't require reprogram or new harness or anything.
02-15-2017, 04:19 AM
#29
Three Wheelin'
we are here when you decide to do a permanent fix and scrap the troublesome hydraulics. Not sure why, but 5 orders came in on Valentine's Day... roses for the wife and an eRam kit for me? A customer in Sweden made a pro shot time lapse video of the hydraulic extraction and eRam set install, should be up on the net shortly. 
02-15-2017, 02:21 PM
#30
Instructor
we are here when you decide to do a permanent fix and scrap the troublesome hydraulics. Not sure why, but 5 orders came in on Valentine's Day... roses for the wife and an eRam kit for me? A customer in Sweden made a pro shot time lapse video of the hydraulic extraction and eRam set install, should be up on the net shortly.
PS: Will the electric system work with a Misha wing? I'm contemplating getting one, but not sure how they mesh with existing. I'm not thinking about doing the whole GT2 replica hatch, just the blade, if that's possible.
Last edited by mark_schnell; 02-15-2017 at 05:50 PM. Reason: Misha wings?
