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Old 02-15-2017, 06:33 PM
  #31  
docboy
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Originally Posted by T10Chris
I have the factory spoiler removal tool if you need it. I was just finishing up some testing/adjusting with my spoiler this afternoon.
Thanks for the offer! Will let you know. I just need to decide what to do with my spoiler first: have it rebuilt, do Dave's eram kit, do the ebay $150 fix it kit, or get a GT2 spoiler.... conundrums! I'm getting tired of seeing the spoiler warning light lol.
Old 02-15-2017, 10:32 PM
  #32  
"02996ttx50
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Originally Posted by docboy
Thanks for the offer! Will let you know. I just need to decide what to do with my spoiler first: have it rebuilt, do Dave's eram kit, do the ebay $150 fix it kit, or get a GT2 spoiler.... conundrums! I'm getting tired of seeing the spoiler warning light lol.
i realize you and your buddy "tried" a re-bleed? but i would bet that if someone tried it again, it would remedy your uneven/inoperable spoiler.

or, alternately i'll sell you my never needed $150 ebay bag of pre-measured bolts for 100 that i bought before trying to re-bleed the system.
Old 02-15-2017, 11:53 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by "02996ttx50
i realize you and your buddy "tried" a re-bleed? but i would bet that if someone tried it again, it would remedy your uneven/inoperable spoiler.

or, alternately i'll sell you my never needed $150 ebay bag of pre-measured bolts for 100 that i bought before trying to re-bleed the system.
I am the buddy that helped him with it. Not everyone has been as lucky as you have been and re-bled once and never had problems again. I did mine 3 times in a year, the stop-leak fix didn't stop my leak on the left ram and eventually my wing always angled slightly lower on left side when fully raised. Sometimes the seals are too far gone

With docboy's car we removed pump and both rams, bled and re-bled the system outside of the car, cycled the rams outside of the car to make sure synced up/same height before reinstallation... There was a microswitch issue on his car caused by me; I broke one of his microswitch by mistake, and after not being able to source one in a timely manner gave him the microswitch from my car, and seems he's having problems still, as I did eventually.

I'm curious about what hardware is in the bag. I didn't even realize this is how that ebay kit worked, but I made an adjustable by hand version for like $20 and have enough material left over to do a couple more. Simple threaded rod and a few nuts.
Old 02-16-2017, 12:19 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by T10Chris
I am the buddy that helped him with it. Not everyone has been as lucky as you have been and re-bled once and never had problems again. I did mine 3 times in a year, the stop-leak fix didn't stop my leak on the left ram and eventually my wing always angled slightly lower on left side when fully raised.

With docboy's car we removed pump and both rams, bled and re-bled the system outside of the car, cycled the rams outside of the car to make sure synced up/same height before reinstallation... There was a microswitch issue on his car caused by me; I broke one of his microswitch by mistake, and after not being able to source one in a timely manner gave him the microswitch from my car, and seems he's having problems still, as I did eventually.

I'm curious about what hardware is in the bag. I didn't even realize this is how that ebay kit worked, but I made an adjustable by hand version for like $20 and have enough material left over to do a couple more. Simple threaded rod and a few nuts.
that's different and admirable then for the effort, as you did all you could or anyone would. given all you tried ( mine have been bled twice in 7 years and always done with all parts lying on the decklid ) ..and all continues to work ( for now anyway ). but still i have no bad parts in/on this 14 year old b*tch

so it sounds as if you had bad seals as they'd still leak, if not a pump issue? since there isn't much else that can fail beyond the switch. or the plastic piece.. or the... but yeah..

as to the bag of "hardware" for $150 the bag of bolts and i chuckled again when i looked at them today. i'll try to snap a pic for you tomorrow. laughable at $150, a deal at many sets for 20. threaded rods and a cpl nuts, yep

so, good for you for trying to sort it out with fluid before manually fixing them "up" or opting for the newest, albeit more expensive fix.

the esteemed 4" e-ram kit.
Old 02-16-2017, 01:16 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by "02996ttx50
that's different and admirable then for the effort, as you did all you could or anyone would. given all you tried ( mine have been bled twice in 7 years and always done with all parts lying on the decklid ) ..and all continues to work ( for now anyway ). but still i have no bad parts in/on this 14 year old b*tch

so it sounds as if you had bad seals as they'd still leak, if not a pump issue? since there isn't much else that can fail beyond the switch. or the plastic piece.. or the... but yeah..

as to the bag of "hardware" for $150 the bag of bolts and i chuckled again when i looked at them today. i'll try to snap a pic for you tomorrow. laughable at $150, a deal at many sets for 20. threaded rods and a cpl nuts, yep

so, good for you for trying to sort it out with fluid before manually fixing them "up" or opting for the newest, albeit more expensive fix.

the esteemed 4" e-ram kit.
First time I did mine, did it exactly as your write up actually, still on the decklid... Doing it that way brought it back to life from being completely non-functional so I owe ya a beer on that one

Then after a little while, one side is sitting higher than the other.. Took it all off and re-bled, all seemed fine.. Did the removal and re-bleed on another friend's car and it worked out also. Some point in here I helped out docboy with his while working with mine again, although mine wasn't sitting lower on one side, one side would start to go up sooner than the other and it would level out before they stopped moving.... and it just kept on happening for me, left side start sagging.

Yeah, I think once the seals or something in the ram itself is degraded past a certain point, stop leak won't stop the leak. Too many points of failure. Looked over the system with a friend that is an engineer at Boeing and we were working on another solution to keep the wing active and add some additional functions like air brake/variable angle of attack.... Decided I would rather invest my time into other projects at this point and was doing another re-bleed off the car and was holding the parts in my hand when an idea came to me to make it manually adjustable fixed wing using a thread in/thread out system... So here we are, until I buy GT2 decklid or do a GT3RS type induction decklid/metal uprights/wing, or decide I actually want to pick back up the active aero project.

Im not one to give up on things lightly haha I tend to engineer solutions myself vs buying kits, but I think the e-Ram is a great solution for most people. Porsche should have done it that way to begin with
Old 02-16-2017, 01:59 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by mark_schnell
PS: Will the electric system work with a Misha wing? I'm contemplating getting one, but not sure how they mesh with existing. I'm not thinking about doing the whole GT2 replica hatch, just the blade, if that's possible.
Yep, it works great with the Misha GT2 Add On wing.

Old 02-16-2017, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by kcattorney
Yep, it works great with the Misha GT2 Add On wing.

Excellent! Looks great too. I'll be going this route soon then.
Old 03-06-2017, 08:06 PM
  #38  
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Got my eRam kit, now I just need a link to instruction video to install it... I know I saw that link someplace...
Old 03-06-2017, 09:47 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by mark_schnell
Got my eRam kit, now I just need a link to instruction video to install it... I know I saw that link someplace...
congrats on that purchase..it would presumably work well with a strosek. pretty sure dave's install notes/diy are on his site?

i would've bought his kit long ago but my spoiler operability after rebleeding ( once or twice in the last 7 years ) is still strong like bull lol

it's probably lasted this long because the strosek is lighter than the oem ha. looking at kc's pic. the misha gt2 add on is fairly *aggressive* while the strosek ( or even a techart ) is about halfway more aggressive ( looking ) from oem. leaving completely aside any commentary on the respective aerodynamics of one over the other.
Old 03-07-2017, 03:14 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by mark_schnell
Got my eRam kit, now I just need a link to instruction video to install it... I know I saw that link someplace...
Dave should have sent it in an email attachment. If not i can try to fwd it to you. Its a fairly simple task.
Old 03-08-2017, 07:20 AM
  #41  
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I do send the extensive instructions once a kit is purchased. I want the installer to read through twice. I now have a video of the 997 TT wing removal, hydraulectomy and eRam install. That was possible because I purchased a 997 Turbo "company car", with a spoiler that "works intermittently". HA, that was a lie, it had not gone up in many years. Lots of PS fluid reminents from the hydraulic power pack all the way down to the lid latch, also the left side ram lid flange was soaked. It was so pleasing to remove the old junk, clean the lid up nice, and put in the new 4" eRam set. Factory Wing looks way better that high up. ...done rambling on.
Old 03-16-2017, 12:13 AM
  #42  
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My spoiler had a hard failure this weekend. I've had the error code but the unit has always raised and lowered at speed or from the cockpit and has never had a fluid leak. However, it no longer moves, I don't hear anything engaging and I no longer get an error code. Does anyone know if this is a catastrophic failure or a fuse?

Thanks.
Old 03-16-2017, 01:16 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by PaleAle
My spoiler had a hard failure this weekend. I've had the error code but the unit has always raised and lowered at speed or from the cockpit and has never had a fluid leak. However, it no longer moves, I don't hear anything engaging and I no longer get an error code. Does anyone know if this is a catastrophic failure or a fuse?

Thanks.
fuse is the most doubtful. the rams have probably simply *lost* enough fluid over time that beyond the spoiler alerts, nothing was noticed. you as i see them the choices depend wholly upon what you or any help you may have, are capable of, and whatever sense of aesthetics you have.

(1) a relatively *simple* rebleed of the system ( which porsche even has docs for ) which has been recounted here many times. ( cheap )

(2) buy daves e'ram kit ( best )

(3) just pay porsche $$ to have a new system installed from a dealer for 2k+. ( incomprehensible )

(4) install a fixed wing kit or spoiler eg gt2/3 etc. ( why not )

them there's yer options. gl w it!

i've stayed with ( cheap ) for years. no complaints.

Last edited by "02996ttx50; 03-16-2017 at 01:38 AM.
Old 03-16-2017, 01:32 AM
  #44  
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I was contemplating selling my hydraulic rams after I get the eRams installed, but might just box the hydraulics for the car's next owner. As option (4), it might be possible to find someone with a used set they're willing to sell for less $$$ than option (3)
Old 03-16-2017, 02:04 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by DaveCarrera4
I do send the extensive instructions once a kit is purchased. I want the installer to read through twice. I now have a video of the 997 TT wing removal, hydraulectomy and eRam install. That was possible because I purchased a 997 Turbo "company car", with a spoiler that "works intermittently". HA, that was a lie, it had not gone up in many years. Lots of PS fluid reminents from the hydraulic power pack all the way down to the lid latch, also the left side ram lid flange was soaked. It was so pleasing to remove the old junk, clean the lid up nice, and put in the new 4" eRam set. Factory Wing looks way better that high up. ...done rambling on.
Dave,

I am curious to know if it is possible to incorporate the steel posts on the OEM wing into your electric setup?

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