Suspension
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Suspension
Preamble
So I love my TT. Wanted to get a nice one and keep it stock, but was fixated on green so I bought one with 997 rims and an exhaust on it.
Got a set of original wheels back on and put in a tune, which makes it nearly as fast as my modded 68 Triumph, so it's quick enough.
The problem is that it's a bit floaty on some of the local twisty bits. Which can be disconcerting when there's adverse camber and your right foot involved.
Oh and it's bloody loud. Stupid exhaust...
The shocks and springs are original but are working ok. Local specialist said they were fine. Car has 40k of light use.
The question
I want it to stay stock looking. It isn't likely to get tracked and I'm not looking to compromise compliance when I'm not hoofing it. I have one car that's a roller skate, I don't need two.
What's my best bet to upgrade so I can get through an S bend without sea sickness that doesn't require a second mortgage but that still looks stock?
So I love my TT. Wanted to get a nice one and keep it stock, but was fixated on green so I bought one with 997 rims and an exhaust on it.
Got a set of original wheels back on and put in a tune, which makes it nearly as fast as my modded 68 Triumph, so it's quick enough.
The problem is that it's a bit floaty on some of the local twisty bits. Which can be disconcerting when there's adverse camber and your right foot involved.
Oh and it's bloody loud. Stupid exhaust...
The shocks and springs are original but are working ok. Local specialist said they were fine. Car has 40k of light use.
The question
I want it to stay stock looking. It isn't likely to get tracked and I'm not looking to compromise compliance when I'm not hoofing it. I have one car that's a roller skate, I don't need two.
What's my best bet to upgrade so I can get through an S bend without sea sickness that doesn't require a second mortgage but that still looks stock?
#2
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You could start with a good alignment and a set of sway bars from GMG, H&R or Eibach. I prefer the GMGs because of their combination of light weight and stiffness. The OEM front bar is very weak. That in combination with the soft USA spec front springs gives the car its floaty feel.
If you want to go further than that you do a set of H&R springs or ROW OEM Porsche springs or onto a full set of coilovers. But some nice aftermarket sway bars and alignment might be all you need to make you happy.
If you want to go further than that you do a set of H&R springs or ROW OEM Porsche springs or onto a full set of coilovers. But some nice aftermarket sway bars and alignment might be all you need to make you happy.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Agreed with Carlo_Carrera.
If you want to keep the stock look, go with sway bars and alignment. I've rode in a car with sway bars vs my stock suspension car and it is a pretty big difference. IF you wanted to stay all OEM you could even go for GT3 sway bars (my plan).
You could also seek out the non-US spec suspension components to tighten up the handling to how the rest of the world gets to experience the car. I think the outside of US suspension does change the ride height slightly, but it is still OEM so while it would look different, it wouldn't look extremely off if it changes.
edit: RE: alignment-- I believe the poster above and I are referring to a more "performance/handling" oriented alignment than standard alignment... I think your biggest change will be sway bars, though.
If you want to keep the stock look, go with sway bars and alignment. I've rode in a car with sway bars vs my stock suspension car and it is a pretty big difference. IF you wanted to stay all OEM you could even go for GT3 sway bars (my plan).
You could also seek out the non-US spec suspension components to tighten up the handling to how the rest of the world gets to experience the car. I think the outside of US suspension does change the ride height slightly, but it is still OEM so while it would look different, it wouldn't look extremely off if it changes.
edit: RE: alignment-- I believe the poster above and I are referring to a more "performance/handling" oriented alignment than standard alignment... I think your biggest change will be sway bars, though.
#5
Rennlist Member
H&R coil over kit for about $1600?
Bilstein sports and some springs and bars from Eibach?
Not sure of reviews on these but they would be at the lower end of cost, unless you pick up some used Pss10s.
I run the Pss10 on the Street and track but would prefer adjustable compression for our lovely Seattle roads.
Bilstein sports and some springs and bars from Eibach?
Not sure of reviews on these but they would be at the lower end of cost, unless you pick up some used Pss10s.
I run the Pss10 on the Street and track but would prefer adjustable compression for our lovely Seattle roads.
#7
Instructor
Agreed with Carlo_Carrera.
If you want to keep the stock look, go with sway bars and alignment. I've rode in a car with sway bars vs my stock suspension car and it is a pretty big difference. IF you wanted to stay all OEM you could even go for GT3 sway bars (my plan).
You could also seek out the non-US spec suspension components to tighten up the handling to how the rest of the world gets to experience the car. I think the outside of US suspension does change the ride height slightly, but it is still OEM so while it would look different, it wouldn't look extremely off if it changes.
.
If you want to keep the stock look, go with sway bars and alignment. I've rode in a car with sway bars vs my stock suspension car and it is a pretty big difference. IF you wanted to stay all OEM you could even go for GT3 sway bars (my plan).
You could also seek out the non-US spec suspension components to tighten up the handling to how the rest of the world gets to experience the car. I think the outside of US suspension does change the ride height slightly, but it is still OEM so while it would look different, it wouldn't look extremely off if it changes.
.
regarding the euro suspension set up, the something-30 (clarify the title of that suspension package designation, someone?) I found a set a few months back locally here on CL list for cheap $600. I never did look at the set up in person, but what I found was the shocks were not rebuildable, like the OE US versions. I was reluctant to buy what were described as a 30k mile, 10 year old set up as I figured they were tired, and again not rebuildable. I passed on the sale deciding to save more for the ultimate coilover goal. so any 030(?) set up at this point could likely have tired shocks. the springs might still be sound if not rusted at contact points or other knicks from extended usage at 10+ years old..
jb
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#8
Three Wheelin'
ive installed the GMG sways and will be getting the adjustable rear toe link and lock out kit soon as finances allow over the next few months working toward a coilover set up. I'm trying to do bits at a time to not beat the credit cards too bad all at once. the sways did seem to help and was a logical 1st step after researching a ton here.
regarding the euro suspension set up, the something-30 (clarify the title of that suspension package designation, someone?) I found a set a few months back locally here on CL list for cheap $600. I never did look at the set up in person, but what I found was the shocks were not rebuildable, like the OE US versions. I was reluctant to buy what were described as a 30k mile, 10 year old set up as I figured they were tired, and again not rebuildable. I passed on the sale deciding to save more for the ultimate coilover goal. so any 030(?) set up at this point could likely have tired shocks. the springs might still be sound if not rusted at contact points or other knicks from extended usage at 10+ years old..
jb
regarding the euro suspension set up, the something-30 (clarify the title of that suspension package designation, someone?) I found a set a few months back locally here on CL list for cheap $600. I never did look at the set up in person, but what I found was the shocks were not rebuildable, like the OE US versions. I was reluctant to buy what were described as a 30k mile, 10 year old set up as I figured they were tired, and again not rebuildable. I passed on the sale deciding to save more for the ultimate coilover goal. so any 030(?) set up at this point could likely have tired shocks. the springs might still be sound if not rusted at contact points or other knicks from extended usage at 10+ years old..
jb
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Forest green.
I want it to look totally stock. I went nuts on the Triumph, and I'm trying to avoid going down the same - extremely expensive - path with this one.
I'll look at swaybars - and see if that dials it back.
Edit: These?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...UPG996_pg4.htm
Seem cheap. And if that's really how they attach, look ridiculously easy to install.
I want it to look totally stock. I went nuts on the Triumph, and I'm trying to avoid going down the same - extremely expensive - path with this one.
I'll look at swaybars - and see if that dials it back.
Edit: These?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...UPG996_pg4.htm
Seem cheap. And if that's really how they attach, look ridiculously easy to install.
#10
Instructor
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Canuck living in Bergen County, NJ
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#11
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I'll look at swaybars - and see if that dials it back.
Edit: These?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...UPG996_pg4.htm
Seem cheap. And if that's really how they attach, look ridiculously easy to install.
#12
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
#14
RL Community Team
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#15
Race Car