No start problem
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
No start problem
Took the 996TT out for a drive today. I have not driven the Porsche since Monday, so six days. Stopped by to see my parents. When I was leaving, turned the key and nothing, just the starter clicking. Voltage when I left home on the cluster read 14V. When I failed to start, it read 12V.
Put a jump box on the battery, it started and drove home.
After a 15 minute drive home and into the garage, voltage as follows:
Engine 0ff: 12.52V
At idle, no load: 13.65V
At idle, with low beams and ac on: 13.13V
No voltage drop across either terminals.
I am assuming, it is either the voltage regulator, alternator, or the battery itself.
If you could help me troubleshoot this problem, I would appreciate it.
Thanks in Advance!
Put a jump box on the battery, it started and drove home.
After a 15 minute drive home and into the garage, voltage as follows:
Engine 0ff: 12.52V
At idle, no load: 13.65V
At idle, with low beams and ac on: 13.13V
No voltage drop across either terminals.
I am assuming, it is either the voltage regulator, alternator, or the battery itself.
If you could help me troubleshoot this problem, I would appreciate it.
Thanks in Advance!
#3
Race Director
The battery voltage readings when the engine was running and with various electrical loads is about par for the course based on what I see from my car's battery voltage gage.
Turbo battery life is not very good. The car must be driven frequently -- if one can't use a battery maintainer -- to keep the battery charged.
If one goes too long between uses the battery gets low on charge and while if the car is driven enough gets replenished the low charge condition takes its toll on the battery.
Also, 12.52V is not that good of a charge. Better than 75% but not up to 100%.
So off hand I'd say the battery is the problem.
Turbo battery life is not very good. The car must be driven frequently -- if one can't use a battery maintainer -- to keep the battery charged.
If one goes too long between uses the battery gets low on charge and while if the car is driven enough gets replenished the low charge condition takes its toll on the battery.
Also, 12.52V is not that good of a charge. Better than 75% but not up to 100%.
So off hand I'd say the battery is the problem.
#6
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I think you should full charge your existing battery and then drive to an Autozone for a free and complete charging system check.
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#8
The battery voltage readings when the engine was running and with various electrical loads is about par for the course based on what I see from my car's battery voltage gage.
Turbo battery life is not very good. The car must be driven frequently -- if one can't use a battery maintainer -- to keep the battery charged.
If one goes too long between uses the battery gets low on charge and while if the car is driven enough gets replenished the low charge condition takes its toll on the battery.
Also, 12.52V is not that good of a charge. Better than 75% but not up to 100%.
So off hand I'd say the battery is the problem.
Turbo battery life is not very good. The car must be driven frequently -- if one can't use a battery maintainer -- to keep the battery charged.
If one goes too long between uses the battery gets low on charge and while if the car is driven enough gets replenished the low charge condition takes its toll on the battery.
Also, 12.52V is not that good of a charge. Better than 75% but not up to 100%.
So off hand I'd say the battery is the problem.
I would definitely start with the battery test. Good luck.
Last edited by Montescew; 07-03-2016 at 10:17 PM.
#9
Race Director
Also, I would hazard a guess the alternator is while not weak let me just say undersized. Probably to reduce weight and parasitic losses. But a result is it takes longer to replenish the battery after an engine start and many owners just don't drive the car that much after an engine start. Definitely not the car to use for short hops and errands.
You start it you drive it. Miles.
I use my Turbo 2 or 3 times a week and at least 2 of those times I drive it to work and back, 60 miles.
Just thinking out loud next time I have to replace a battery in the Turbo I'm going to explore getting one with more AH's. The stock Turbo battery is the same "size" one that's in my Boxster and for the Boxster the battery is superb. For the Turbo, not so much.
#10
Hmm. After 4 or more days not driving my (new to me) 996 turbo, the remote unlock on my key doesn't work. I have to manually unlock the car, then reset the little dash button that says the alarm went off. Maybe I need to look into testing my battery...
#12
Rennlist Member
Normal, car goes into sleep mode to save the battery after 5 days of inactivity.
#13
Race Director
In this case what you can do is use the key blade to unlock the door then within something like 10 seconds insert the key into the ignition and turn the key to the 1st position. This prevents the alarm from sounding.
Just to reinforce this: If you are finding the car's security system refusing to recognize your key's door unlock signal you are not driving your Turbo enough. Either drive it more frequently and for enough miles to fully replenish the battery or consider using a battery maintainer/conditioner to keep the battery healthier from lack of regular use.
#14
short jaunts do nothing to maintain the integrity of the battery in this volt hog. that the ecu deigns to put the REMOTE to "sleep" is porsche's version of an impish prank. a trickle charger is a must.
#15
Pro
Thread Starter
I changed the battery a couple of days ago. Everything seems fine now. In the middle of another car project. Just got the point where we have to wait for parts so will be checking for the phantom draw this week.
Thanks for all the help.
Thanks for all the help.