32krazy!

i think many people fail to see the reasons or differences between welding and pinning.

welding is a more permanent way to solve the issue BUT requires the individual parts to be removed fittings pulled out cleaned reinstalled and then welded and pressure tested. once this is done the fittings are done for life. engine removal,new gaskets and orings were needed and time spent removing the parts and reistalling them all add to the cost.

pinning can be done with all the parts remaining on the engine. fittings removed cleaned new expoxy applied reinstalled drilled and pinned. cost is much lower and the fix once done should last at least 10-15 yrs based on the epoxy used. some folks have done this with the motor in but best if done motor out.

each way has its pros and cons but EACH way will work for likely longer then any one person will own the car

Carlo_Carrera

Perfectly said.


I would add that if I did not track my car I wouldn't bother pinning or welding. From my experience the chances of serious incident occurring on the street because of the OEM fitting blowing is almost zero. This is JMHO.

manimal

What if the engine were already out for other reasons?

I thought there had been a few guys on here reporting street driving failures, at this point.

"02996ttx50

i was once driving leisurely up a canyon road while folllowing a pal uphill when his blew. all at 55 mph.
mine's at 156k miles and, i ain't worried in the least. the cars track days, are behind it also. if i had to though, i'd jb weld and be done.

Carlo_Carrera

Are you going to track the car?

manimal

I plan to track it once I get everything sorted. My current thought is to pin them whenever the engine has to come out.

Really just curious to hear everyone's opinions, though. I'm glad it turned into a religious debate as always.

PaleAle

I thought there had been a few guys on here reporting street driving failures, at this point.[/QUOTE]

I'm your huckleberry. I blew mine on a city street at about 4500 RPMs. Right after telling my 12 year old, after he asked if it were safe to wind it, "it's a Porsche, made to drive hard". When I stopped at the stop light a cloud of coolant steam rolled over the car.

Ahh, memories.

FWIW, after following the SharkWerks solution we regularly go higher, for longer periods of time. MUCH longer.

32krazy!

The reason for pinning/welding a stock street car would be piece of mind. If your in the middle of a 6 lane interstate running 70 mph in heavy traffic and a fitting blows or in a long construction zone with no place to pull off you could burn the motor up or lift a head in a short amount of time. Since there's no rhyme or reason as to when it will pop it's best to just get it done and forget about it

s65e90

Pinning without removing the fitting to re-glue just means it won't shoot out. It can still leak from around the fitting itself and just won't lose all the coolant at once. IMO weld em and forget em.

Third-Reef

This is a good explanation.

https://www.blackcanyonperformance.c...t-pipe-welding

coffeehead

Is anyone welding or pinning these on an exchange basis?

32krazy!

its unlikely since the cost of the parts even used would be thousands. the water pump assembly alone is 1200 new oil cooler assembly is over 1000$

wross996tt

FWIW, welding has its own issues. The welds can have pinholes and also can crack. Most likely due to not preparing the surfaces correctly or over heating the materials. Best to have it done by someone with experience.

carguy999

Five years late but dang, never say never lol.

I'm bumping this because I have a dumb question - why don't other makes or models need to do this? What's special about TT/GT3 in these generations? I have a 997 C2 and would assume the coolant system is at least similar - radiators up front, engine in the back, with a lot of piping in between. Why shouldn't I get my lines pinned or welded if I were to track?

Carlo_Carrera

996/997 TTs and GT3s use a completely different engine from the ones used in the Carrera models.