For anyone with pinned coolant lines.
01-25-2016, 10:41 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
For anyone with pinned coolant lines.
Going to weld mine this spring when I pull the motor. Having welded a lot of cast aluminum heads/transmissions/manifolds, it just take a lot of care and proper filler rod. I XRF'd a TT trans that I wanted to save and had some custom filler rod made. Worked perfect.
02-02-2016, 02:17 PM
#32
Race Car
I've heard this from other outside sources as well, though rarely discussed on these forums.
Specifically, for non-failed connections, to add a fillet of marine JB weld at the base of the pipe/casting interface much like one would do with a weld. This is instead of pinning.
Pinning, does not in itself prevent a failure. It just prevents a catastrophic failure. The original glue/seal can still fail from which point a pinning fitting will weep.
Theoretically, a fillet of JB weld will hold the pipe pretty darn well and add to the seal.
Anyone had experience doing it this way?
Specifically, for non-failed connections, to add a fillet of marine JB weld at the base of the pipe/casting interface much like one would do with a weld. This is instead of pinning.
Pinning, does not in itself prevent a failure. It just prevents a catastrophic failure. The original glue/seal can still fail from which point a pinning fitting will weep.
Theoretically, a fillet of JB weld will hold the pipe pretty darn well and add to the seal.
Anyone had experience doing it this way?
I think a "fillet" of JB weld around the seal would work, my concern is that in back of your mind you would always 2nd guess it's reliability. To do it you would have to clean it really well and have to take the motor out to do that. Then why not pin it too?
02-02-2016, 07:59 PM
#33
You could certainly try, but this seems a futile effort. As stated before, the pinning only somewhat anchors the nipple into the housing. The fitting, since it is actually about 2mm smaller than the housing can still flex around because it is only pinned from one side.
This repair essentially turns the glue, that originally was designed to hold and seal, into just a seal. There is still a chance that the unpinned side of the fitting can move when the hose puts pressure on it.
If the fittings were easy to get to, which they really aren't, I would say go ahead, but since there isn't much surface area to glue to, and the surface area won't provide much mechanical adhesion, it may just make you feel better.
This repair essentially turns the glue, that originally was designed to hold and seal, into just a seal. There is still a chance that the unpinned side of the fitting can move when the hose puts pressure on it.
If the fittings were easy to get to, which they really aren't, I would say go ahead, but since there isn't much surface area to glue to, and the surface area won't provide much mechanical adhesion, it may just make you feel better.
02-20-2016, 01:43 AM
#34
Rennlist Member
Started pinning the fittings the other evening and did a couple easy ones.
Once you pull intake the inner ones are pretty easy to get at but it's the type of job that you look at and don't really want to start because you know it will take a few. Pretty sure they'd have been fine unpinned now that I've created a bunch of work for myself
Once you pull intake the inner ones are pretty easy to get at but it's the type of job that you look at and don't really want to start because you know it will take a few. Pretty sure they'd have been fine unpinned now that I've created a bunch of work for myself
02-20-2016, 11:44 AM
#37
Rennlist Member
Engine out, I wouldn't even try it in. Makes it easy to change some hoses that although fine, were still 12 years old. Taking the opportunity to completely refresh all coolant hoses and the radiators, figure it gets me to 2030 or better resale.
02-21-2016, 01:32 AM
#38
Rennlist Member
Anyone have an easy method of getting the 2 upper water hoses by heat exchanger back on the fittings? Hand soap on inside of hoses may help but they are not easy to access. Look at the one in this pic with the clamp off it. The other end goes back to the water pump.
I've only pulled the intake manifolds/TB and left everything else on so the hoses look like a PITA to snake back on.
I've only pulled the intake manifolds/TB and left everything else on so the hoses look like a PITA to snake back on.
02-21-2016, 06:41 PM
#39
911mhawk, looks like you're doing this at the same time I am. I just bought a drill flex extension and will tackle that particular fitting mid-week without pulling the intake distributor. Though I'm reconsidering now as it doesn't look too hard to pull it off?
Looks like you're using jbweld on the screws instead of red loctite?
Looks like you're using jbweld on the screws instead of red loctite?
02-22-2016, 04:19 AM
#40
Rennlist Member
911mhawk, looks like you're doing this at the same time I am. I just bought a drill flex extension and will tackle that particular fitting mid-week without pulling the intake distributor. Though I'm reconsidering now as it doesn't look too hard to pull it off?
Looks like you're using jbweld on the screws instead of red loctite?
Looks like you're using jbweld on the screws instead of red loctite?
Just pull the intakes with a flex drive 7mm and reposition the hose clams when it's off for access from the sides for easier reassembly.
Good time to replace some hoses too, the ones on top by heat exchanger weren't as bad as I thought to get on with long angled needle nose and angled hose pliers.
I used red locktite and put a fine bead of JB under the head and around the edges to seal it up.
Also thought of doing it without pulling manifolds but wanted to do the hoses and put a paper towel in the hole to catch any metal shavings.
02-22-2016, 09:07 AM
#41
Burning Brakes
I would change the seals on the Oil cooler on top of motor. My C2's was leaking coolant. Also the oil pressure sensor, I have seen go bad on all three 996 i had.
02-22-2016, 02:07 PM
#42
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I had a coolant blowout on track last fall. Luckily no one, or thing, was hurt. The following week, I had all the fittings pinned and re-glued with JB weld.
The funny part is that I was going to have it done as preventative maintenance in Decemeber.
The funny part is that I was going to have it done as preventative maintenance in Decemeber.
02-22-2016, 04:25 PM
#43
Rennlist Member
Which one blew?
02-22-2016, 06:56 PM
#45
Rennlist Member
I read several posts before doing this and the time for project was not clear to me/all over the board. To get back to pic below, it took me four 3 hour sessions. Did 7 pins with red locktite and JB weld. JB welded the seam of one below power steering reservoir since I didn't want to pull it off. Paper towel in holes and grease on drill bit with a vac going to prevent shavings. Replaced the belt and water hoses and cleaned up everything while in there.
If you add the hour or so I spent thinking about the PIA the project will be while staring at and cleaning the motor, it takes just that much longer! Smaller hands would be helpful and if your motor is particularly dirty or has more than the 18k mine does, you may spend longer cleaning and replace more parts. Other than fluid changes, brake pads and some dog bones/LCAs, it's the first real project I've done on this car(other than pull the motor). My previous experience is decent but nothing special so it is certainly something you can do if you take the time. Thanks for the UMW pins Kevin!
If you add the hour or so I spent thinking about the PIA the project will be while staring at and cleaning the motor, it takes just that much longer! Smaller hands would be helpful and if your motor is particularly dirty or has more than the 18k mine does, you may spend longer cleaning and replace more parts. Other than fluid changes, brake pads and some dog bones/LCAs, it's the first real project I've done on this car(other than pull the motor). My previous experience is decent but nothing special so it is certainly something you can do if you take the time. Thanks for the UMW pins Kevin!
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