Warehouse33.net

The Bremi's are $119 not the Bosch.

-Jason

"02996ttx50

i realized that. my bad. but i an genuinely thinking the bremi may BE the bosch with bremi's "name" on it, wouldn't be the first time there is a licensing agreement. its essentially the same part no? but rob's trying one too, so he'll tell us whats what. thx for clarlifying.

Kevinmacd

If you do go with a so called performance filter just use a dry filter and not oiled. If the filter gets oversaturated with oil it becomes a mist and forms a film on the maf wire, causing it to burn out and if you are lucky sometimes a cleaning will work. Most times they fry!

Warehouse33.net

Well that might just be true, plus Bremi is an OEM brand on a lot of parts on our cars. Made in Germany too!

-Jason

Jeremy Wight

---

wross996tt

Just so everyone understands, the hypotheses about the performance of the BMC or K&N filters is just that....,all conjecture, NO DATA. If you check out the K&N site, there is a significant study they conducted about causal relationships with blown MAFs and their filters...NO relationship (Yes they have data which is more than I can say about anyone else posting in this thread.) I have been using a BMC filter for over 10 years with dual snorkel intake and other modifications. Also, I am at high altitude..Still on same MAF!!!! I blew through 3 MAFs using the EVOMS intake...but that's another story.

"02996ttx50

lol..passive aggressive much?

lots more people ( according to myriad numbers of anecdotal reports easily found and read on 996 turbo forums ) suggest a definite correlation way beyond numbers ( that would even support ANY notion of them being coincidental ) to the fouling of mafs and the use of olied k&n or bmc filters. even you ( yes wross,.. i'm talking to YOU DIRECTLY! lol ) will HAVE TO concede that? no?! ( assuming you understood the sentence? )

you and your "data". no better or worse than mine, i'll grant you that, and yet, you will accept some company's "DATA" as gospel and or undisputed "truth"?! or you rely solely upon your OWN experiential "data"?? no, you mention some filter that sells oiled filters company's "advertising"! way to go champ!

you can do better.

yes, "we" get it. you like your bmc oiled filter and it's been trouble free in direct opposition to many many equally yet opposite well known reports from OTHER USERS.

in the future don't be so shy!! it's obvious to whom you were referring ( ME! duh.. lol ) without directly contradicting MY posting referencing MY experiences with them. grow some ba*ls, man. surely it's time?

Fishey

Bremi is one of the largest OEM manufactures for European cars with 90 years of proven reliability and quality.

That being said I am sure the products they produce are absolutely ****.

Yea, like I said K&N Filters even when properly oiled still do not filter at the same level as an OEM filter. This means more contaminates get into your intake and those contaminates hit the hot wire maf these particles act as isolation. They keep the airflow from cooling the MAF wire leading to a degradation in the MAF sensor's ability to properly read the airflow. Given that the MAF wire is usually around 200-300F these particles pretty much meld with the wire and no amount of cleaning will remove the insulation caused by debris.

I would also like to point out that taking someones evidence as fact when they have a vested interest in the outcome is a pretty bad idea.

993GT

just wanted to report the Bremi MAF, 996-606-124-00 / Bremi# 30197, seems to be working well

"02996ttx50

that very encouraging. same part number as the 996 bosch AND bremi is an oem supplier. more and more looks like typical "brand name" subterfuge. i'd sure buy the bremi. thx for posting the results.

Kevinmacd

I dont buy the oil filters do not degrade the mafs! I know others who used oiled filters and they had to replace mafs multiple times! They were not even porsches. All that failed were downstream of the filters. If you you do a search on rennlist, you will see those who had maf issues, a good portion were oiled performance filters. Keep in mind kn research was probably under controlled circumstances. Throw in consumers and how much they saturate the filters vary! So i stand by oiled filters have a negative effect on downstream mafs, Im sticking to it!

"02996ttx50

me too lol

993GT

+1, I've had great luck with Bremi parts in the past.
Have no hesitation running one in my car. If any issues arise in the near future I will post about it...

Jeremy Wight

Since we are now on the topic of MAF's, what is the expected "life-span" of an MAF, and what are the symptoms of one going out if not receiving a CEL? I saw in a post above referencing LTFT and some sort of count?

"02996ttx50

thats "long term" VS "short term" fuel trim stuff...
( http://www.obd-codes.com/faq/fuel-trims.php

... and for many beyond the scope of what can be determined unless your skill level is such that you CAN read your logs, as many here can and do. i'm not one! however, though i have a passable understanding of "them".

as to "maf life" there really IS no definitive answer to that other than to say without progressing any argument, they will "*SEEMINGLY*" last a whole lot longer without being subjected to conditions that change when one uses an aftermarket air filter VS a paper oem mahle. but the "debate" rages on ( is it STILL?! a debate!? lol ) nah, perhaps not

but symptomatically failing mafs are usually associated with rough running, idle fluctuation, some hiccuping or in the worst cases, the car can run in "limp mode" but that is USUALLY gonna be something far more serious than simply a failing air flow meter! and will often accompanied by abs/psm dash error messages and a code reader will often show a P0102 ( maybe an associated P0103, P0104 etc ) the P0102 which i got IMMEDIATELY yesterday when i removed my MAF intentionally to do a throttle body reset, and the abs/psm xmas lights on the dash were instantly visible once the maf had been disconnected! ( you also will want to get at least a cheap code reader if not a full on durametric ) so that you can YOURSELF! turn OFF check engine lights ( CELS ) and the like and READ CODES! this is VERY important!. MOST but NOT ALL codes can be turned off/cleared with a 50$ actron unit code reader or one similar. a MUST HAVE device for this car!

this below is from a "pelican parts" "how to" on mafs. i think it's a "boxter" "how to"? but much of the info and in point of fact, the MAF for boxter is the same as "ours" though they do NOT share the same part number, they ARE interchangeable and LOOK the same! but MY advice? is to always use a BOSCH# 996-( and ends with ) 124.00 ! i do, anyway..... ( or as rob here has confirmed? a BREMI MAF is also fine as many of us are now suspecting it MAY? be a bosch at half the price and branded/made by BREMI! which IS an OEM supplier to porsche! so check that when searching/pricing/buying a new one!

read this stuff below. the maf is VERY common source of minor issues for folks, but once you have a new one, and are doing what you can to eliminate the added potential for MAF contamination? a new bosch MAF could well last you a decade or more. easily. if you have a minute? read the pasted stuff below to give yourself a quick tutorial. pelican has them and i'm sure that RL? here has them too ( i would think?? ) but perhaps you'd need to be a paying member to read em if they even exist.. but i digress.. read up on mafs. dont get caught up in the never ending oiled filter VS paper filter debate ( it is circular and will NEVER end LOL ) and enjoy your car!

from pelican:

The first indicator that you might have a problem with the MAF is the presence of a check engine light (CEL) on your dashboard. The check engine lamp can be caused by a wide variety of problems with the engine: you need to read the codes from the computer to get a starting clue as to what the problem is (see Project 20 for details on reading the codes). It's perfectly safe to continue to drive the car while the CEL light is on, as long as it is not flashing. However, the engine will not be operating at peak efficiency, and you will most likely experience a loss in power and a decrease in gas mileage as a result. It's best to get the problem taken care of relatively quickly, as running the engine in this condition can potentially cause damage to other components like the catalytic converters.

The computer will know if something is wrong with the MAF because it will compare the values being output by the sensor to "expected"' values that it should be receiving. This common-sense check by the computer helps to diagnose problems with every component in the system. If the MAF becomes dirty and is falsely indicating to the engine that the car is receiving very little air while at full throttle, then the computer will most likely kick back an error code.

To gain more information about the problem, you can try disconnecting the sensor completely and taking the car for a drive. If you take short drives (30 minutes or less) with the sensor disconnected, it shouldn't cause any major damage to your car. The engine management system (DME) will enter into a type of "limp mode" that will compensate for the missing MAF. If engine performance improves dramatically when disconnecting the MAF, then the problem quite likely lies with the MAF.

Vacuum leaks and other air leaks in the system can cause MAF sensor errors. If you have a crack or leak in your air intake downstream of the sensor, then the MAF will be sensing less air than the engine is actually receiving. If the clamp on the throttle body happens to come loose and fall off, then the MAF will indicate almost no air being sucked through the intake, yet the engine will be sucking air directly from the engine compartment into the throttle body. The bottom line is that you should carefully inspect all of your hoses, clamps and intake tubes for air leaks prior to replacing the sensor (see Pelican Technical Article: Troubleshooting Vacuum Leaks).

The MAF is located on the left side of the engine compartment, just behind the air filter (see Project 3 for access to the engine compartment). For some reason, Porsche made it unusually difficult to remove the MAF, by securing it with a T20 tamper-proof Torx screw. You need the special tamper-proof Torx drivers which are not typically found in everyone's toolbox, but usually can be purchased at a good local auto parts store. Although the holes on the MAF look symmetrical, they are not and the unit can only be installed in one direction. See Photo 1 for a close-up of the MAF. Removal is easy, once you have the tool. Simply remove both screws holding it in place and pull it out. Boxsters from 2005 and later have a MAF with an integrated housing: simply unclamp the housing from the intake tube and remove it.

It's very important to keep the sensor clean. If the air cleaner isn't working too well, it could allow dust and debris to collect on the MAF. If you've had a problem with your air-oil separator, it could have contaminated the sensor as well. Oil sucked into the engine intake from a defective separator can easily find its way back to the intake tube. If you have had major engine problems (like our project car with the blown up engine), then you may find a ruined MAF. On our donor car, the MAF was soaked in oil and coolant residue that had found its way all over the engine. If you have an aftermarket reusable air filter, beware of how much cleaning and filtering oil you use on it. Excess oil may get sucked into the intake and find its way onto the MAF. To keep your MAF healthy, I recommend changing or cleaning your air filter often (see Pelican Technical Article: Air Filter / Pollen Filter Replacement).