Ck986

I am planning on replacing my radiators with cfs rads and expect some if not most of the coolant to drain out. I plan to buy a uview 55000 vacuumed system and want to know if the system will work in a partially drained system and do I need a durametric to put the car in coolant flush mode? Will the uview suck out the coolant when I create a 25psi vaccume?


As a side note I am considering replacing the water pump too, but think it might be a bit out of my skill level as the motor needs to be dropped a little and the exhaust needs to be removed. How difficult do you guys deem this project. I don't need to do it yet, but after 12 years and 50k miles I'm sure a replacement wouldn't hurt.

Macster

Both my cars have had partial coolant system drains and the dealer vacuum lift system works just fine. While there is low pressure -- to the point the techs told me the hoses collapse -- it will not should not suck out any coolant as there is no air flow.

About having to put the car in coolant flush mode, the factory manual reference I have mentions this:

19 38 17 Draining and filling in coolant
Caution
Draining coolant
Filling in coolant
Bleeding the cooling system
CAUTION Risk of damage!
The drain ***** of the front radiator and side radiators must be opened only manually . Never open them with tools.
Manually open drain ***** and drain/collect the coolant.

CAUTION Risk of damage!
Never use tools to close the drain *****.
1. Close drain ***** manually .
2. Check position of the locking springs on the drain *****. The bows of the locking springs must always point up.

CAUTION
Severe damage can occur if the installation position is incorrect (twisted out of position).
3. Vent the cooling system in connection with the System Tester 2 . Use menu item "Special functions" for this purpose.

Draining coolant
1. Unscrew cap on coolant expansion tank.
2. Undo coolant drain plugs on right and left and drain the coolant. Equip drain plugs with new seals. Tightening torque 10 Nm (7.5 ftlb.) to 15 Nm (11.0 ftlb.).

Bleeding the cooling system
Note
• The cooling system is bled in connection with the Porsche System Tester 2
1. Connect the Porsche System Tester 2 and switch on the ignition.
2. Select menu item "Special function" in the "Vehicle type" menu.
3. Press the ’ key to change to the "Control units" menu.
4. Select menu item "Cooling system" in the "Control units" menu and press the >> key.
Note
• The following message appears on the screen: Start function with [F8]
5. Press the F8 key and follow the further instructions of the Porsche System Tester 2 .

But what this does I have no idea.

993GT

I find it very easy to drain/re-fill/bleed the coolant system without an air-lift/vacuum system...
Doing the rads, try to drain all you can from 'controlled-release' points on the cooling system, messy job can be made VERY messy if coolant isn't drained systematically.
Cheers,

Ck986

I was planning on lifting the front half of the car and emptying whatever coolant from the front drains and then just going at it and removing the rads. It appears to be a messy job no matter how you cut it.

Or I can just send it to the shop. I just hate the way I get my car back as I have been working on wrapping certain leather components cleaning up the door thresholds, the independent shops always leave scratches on things and oil smudges on the leather. To top it off there is always something new that is wrong with the car after the car goes to an independent. I'm tired of trying reputable shops until I definitely have to do so, so I'm trying to tackle all non-engine removal maintenance. By the way will the durametric allow me to put the car in servicing mode to flush the coolant. If so maybe I'll just go out and buy one as it is on my list of things to get.

sanyata

When I changed the coolant I opened the radiator drains, the engine drains and disconnected the hoses by the tranny that connect the tube running from the front of the car and the back of the engine. Those hoses really evacuated the system. Then using a vacume system I refilled with distilled water only and went for a 10 mile run to circulate the water throughout the system. Then I drained the system again and was surprised how much coolant had mixed with the water so I was glad I did the water flush before refilling with new coolant. Never did anything with the durametric and never got a CEL. Afterward ran for an extended period of time with the coolant cap valve open and checked level every so often. Barely had to top off and everything went smoothly. Hope this helps.

mmm951

As santaya mentioned, it can be done with a good vacuum system (Snap-On or Mac that connects to shop air). You do not need the Durametric to perform this operation - I have one. The vacuum system allows the flaps to open within the cooling system in order for a proper fill and bleed to take place.

Ck986

Thanks for the great information guys!

993GT

Do not need Durametric at all, nor do I think there is any function it can perform to help...
Preferably with rear of car higher than the front, fill car up with premixed coolant with the vent flap open(little tab on black cap turned up), let it settle for a few minutes, top up as necessary...
Fire car up and let it idle up to temp(not full hot per se, but getting warm) with filler cap off and flap still open, heater on, add occasion sustained higher RPM, top up as necessary...
Let car cool down(flap still open), top-up coolant if necessary, put filler cap on and drive around under light load and get car up to full temp...find a hill/driveway/slope/ramps/etc and again get the back of the car higher than the front, rev engine to say 3k RPM...
Take back home and let cool down...top up as necessary...
Essentially do a few hot-cold cycles with the car, with full coolant flow/heat, the system naturally bleeds itself using the coolant tank as the system high-point, the flap/cap is designed exactly for this reason...
The air-left system is great for shops that cannot afford anytime to let the system bleed as designed, works but not necessary.
Cheers,