Advice on this 996TT!
07-11-2012, 12:23 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
My sons rarely listen to me either. Actually they do sometimes, but not when they really want something. Of course I also tell them it's best to make their expensive mistakes while they are young.
If you get the TT, you will love it. Just go into it with your eyes open.
Just ease into the power and try not to kill yourself. You're Dad would want me to say that.
If you get the TT, you will love it. Just go into it with your eyes open.
Just ease into the power and try not to kill yourself. You're Dad would want me to say that.
07-11-2012, 01:56 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
Buy the turbo for all the reasons stated above but sign up for a driving school next week. Somebody recently posted something on Rennlist about driving schools in your area so do a search and you can find something. These cars are very docile at low RPMs and easy to drive but they can get out of hand quickly once the boost kicks-in. Take it to a track with a good instructor and drive it 150 on the straight to get it out of your system. Just don't be a jack-a$$ on public roads with other cars. "With power comes responsibility".
07-11-2012, 02:17 PM
#18
Burning Brakes
07-11-2012, 03:22 PM
#19
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That car looks great, and Evolution Motorsports (EVOMS) is a reputable (albeit expensive) tuner. Their "tune & intake" stage is a pretty basic upgrade - not too intrusive.
That said, in addition to the power mods, it appears to also have suspension modifications. Maybe simply lowered on X73, or lowering springs (H&R, Techart, or Ruf are most common, IMHO)... or perhaps a set of coilovers a la Bilstein, KW, JRZ, Moton, etc etc.
Get the mechanic's full report on the car, and all the better if the previous owner has dates/receipts for all of the work done (including the mods).
07-11-2012, 04:52 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
If you decide not to buy the TT, you might want to look into a newer Carrera 4S. BTW that TT has minimul factory options and the mods should not drive any more in price than the standard 996TT. If you do not do your own work you really need to unsderstand the actual maintainence on the car. This car holds almost 10qts of synthetic oil only, and will cost you to do a simple oil change. Even though the book says change oil every 9.500 mile most people on this board probably cut that in half.. So depending on how many miles a year will determine your simple oil change cost. Yoiu need to ask if the 30K manintence was done, which includes oil, sprk plugs, brake and clutch fluid flush,air filter and cabin filter along with some other items!
07-11-2012, 06:57 PM
#21
Track Day
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Thanks for all the input guys! I'm making a list of everything I need to go over with the mechanic, who will be showing me the car on Saturday. I'll let you know how it goes!
07-11-2012, 10:07 PM
#22
Be careful - get a PPI by a reputable shop/indy...go to the local PCA DE tech person and ask what shop(s) to use.
it is very low. My car is euro GT2 height, I have to be careful, and that think looks much lower. It might need a corner balance.
The sides are painted silver at the bottom, the front aero lip is missing...the rear clam needs an aero front lip to balance things (with it being that low, you'll hit the ground going into a gas station....raise the car to at least euro gt2 height, get a lip on Ebay for a few hundred, paint it to match...be prepared to trash it....part of life.
Look at rear tire life. I got my car and did not realize just how pricey new rubber 800 miles into ownership would be....I now use Yoko AD08's. But I used sumi htrz III's and they were great for dd use.
Look at brake parts....
Look for spart plug/coil pack change history.
Look for oil/smoke.
Listen for IMS issues....LOUD clicking.
A PPI by a shop that knows the turbo 996 is a must. Period.
In 2nd gear, declerating on a downhill, does it stay in gear?
Do you see dried fluid stains up front on the driver side on the plastic under the hood....near a reservoir that is for the power steering....
How does the clutch feel?
These cars are immensely well made and such, but they are complex mechanical things and they can cost a little. New ones are (even the normal base cars) north of 85k these days....so it is a steal to get these. Just don't assume a plug change will be 100 bucks....
I've had my car for 6 years...I am owner #2 and plan to keep her for a long time. Nothing newer is more fun that I can afford.....I don't see a gt3rs 4.0 on my check book this month...and on the street, with a tune, the turbo might be faster and safer (torque, awd).....go figure.
Jeff
it is very low. My car is euro GT2 height, I have to be careful, and that think looks much lower. It might need a corner balance.
The sides are painted silver at the bottom, the front aero lip is missing...the rear clam needs an aero front lip to balance things (with it being that low, you'll hit the ground going into a gas station....raise the car to at least euro gt2 height, get a lip on Ebay for a few hundred, paint it to match...be prepared to trash it....part of life.
Look at rear tire life. I got my car and did not realize just how pricey new rubber 800 miles into ownership would be....I now use Yoko AD08's. But I used sumi htrz III's and they were great for dd use.
Look at brake parts....
Look for spart plug/coil pack change history.
Look for oil/smoke.
Listen for IMS issues....LOUD clicking.
A PPI by a shop that knows the turbo 996 is a must. Period.
In 2nd gear, declerating on a downhill, does it stay in gear?
Do you see dried fluid stains up front on the driver side on the plastic under the hood....near a reservoir that is for the power steering....
How does the clutch feel?
These cars are immensely well made and such, but they are complex mechanical things and they can cost a little. New ones are (even the normal base cars) north of 85k these days....so it is a steal to get these. Just don't assume a plug change will be 100 bucks....
I've had my car for 6 years...I am owner #2 and plan to keep her for a long time. Nothing newer is more fun that I can afford.....I don't see a gt3rs 4.0 on my check book this month...and on the street, with a tune, the turbo might be faster and safer (torque, awd).....go figure.
Jeff
07-12-2012, 10:12 AM
#23
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Be careful - get a PPI by a reputable shop/indy...go to the local PCA DE tech person and ask what shop(s) to use.
it is very low. My car is euro GT2 height, I have to be careful, and that think looks much lower. It might need a corner balance.
The sides are painted silver at the bottom, the front aero lip is missing...the rear clam needs an aero front lip to balance things (with it being that low, you'll hit the ground going into a gas station....raise the car to at least euro gt2 height, get a lip on Ebay for a few hundred, paint it to match...be prepared to trash it....part of life.
Look at rear tire life. I got my car and did not realize just how pricey new rubber 800 miles into ownership would be....I now use Yoko AD08's. But I used sumi htrz III's and they were great for dd use.
Look at brake parts....
Look for spart plug/coil pack change history.
Look for oil/smoke.
Listen for IMS issues....LOUD clicking.
A PPI by a shop that knows the turbo 996 is a must. Period.
In 2nd gear, declerating on a downhill, does it stay in gear?
Do you see dried fluid stains up front on the driver side on the plastic under the hood....near a reservoir that is for the power steering....
How does the clutch feel?
These cars are immensely well made and such, but they are complex mechanical things and they can cost a little. New ones are (even the normal base cars) north of 85k these days....so it is a steal to get these. Just don't assume a plug change will be 100 bucks....
I've had my car for 6 years...I am owner #2 and plan to keep her for a long time. Nothing newer is more fun that I can afford.....I don't see a gt3rs 4.0 on my check book this month...and on the street, with a tune, the turbo might be faster and safer (torque, awd).....go figure.
Jeff
it is very low. My car is euro GT2 height, I have to be careful, and that think looks much lower. It might need a corner balance.
The sides are painted silver at the bottom, the front aero lip is missing...the rear clam needs an aero front lip to balance things (with it being that low, you'll hit the ground going into a gas station....raise the car to at least euro gt2 height, get a lip on Ebay for a few hundred, paint it to match...be prepared to trash it....part of life.
Look at rear tire life. I got my car and did not realize just how pricey new rubber 800 miles into ownership would be....I now use Yoko AD08's. But I used sumi htrz III's and they were great for dd use.
Look at brake parts....
Look for spart plug/coil pack change history.
Look for oil/smoke.
Listen for IMS issues....LOUD clicking.
A PPI by a shop that knows the turbo 996 is a must. Period.
In 2nd gear, declerating on a downhill, does it stay in gear?
Do you see dried fluid stains up front on the driver side on the plastic under the hood....near a reservoir that is for the power steering....
How does the clutch feel?
These cars are immensely well made and such, but they are complex mechanical things and they can cost a little. New ones are (even the normal base cars) north of 85k these days....so it is a steal to get these. Just don't assume a plug change will be 100 bucks....
I've had my car for 6 years...I am owner #2 and plan to keep her for a long time. Nothing newer is more fun that I can afford.....I don't see a gt3rs 4.0 on my check book this month...and on the street, with a tune, the turbo might be faster and safer (torque, awd).....go figure.
Jeff
07-12-2012, 10:16 AM
#24
Track Day
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As for the tires do you guys have any opinions on these. This is what my dad sent me on the tires when he went to check it out.
brand new Ventus 285 30zr 18 in Back.
Fronts are close to wear bars and more worn on inside edge...said that was normal...fronts are Michelin 22540zr18
brand new Ventus 285 30zr 18 in Back.
Fronts are close to wear bars and more worn on inside edge...said that was normal...fronts are Michelin 22540zr18
07-12-2012, 11:12 AM
#25
Nordschleife Master
I've been reading your thread since the beginning but initially I didn't want to post because I knew my opinion wouldn't be popular and I would get blasted for posting it.
I bought mine when I was about 3 yrs older than you and I've asked for advice here just like you did. I've received great help and I've always appreciated this forum.
I would walk away from this so called ' deal '. To me it smells fishy from the beginning to the end. A heavy modded car,lowered beyond GT2 specs,with wrong size tires and wearing them on the inside(toe=alignment....Accident? Frame damage?) and this is considered ' Normal ' ?! Are you kiddin' me?!
When it comes to these so called ' mechanics ' don't believe anything they're saying,unless they're part of your family or something...The ONLY way to buy a car like this is to have a PPI(Pre Purchase Inspection) at a Porsche dealer of your choice,where a Factory Trained Technician that knows these cars very well,with no interest whatsoever in your purchase,will perform a 100 plus points CPO sheet inspection,for a fee.
My advice is to walk in there like a cold blooded killer,with no emotions. When you're 25 and test drive one of these and feel that boost,your mind turns to mush,you get addicted,you don't think with your head anymore,but with your heart and might make a stupid decision.
Take your time,drive a few of these,compare them,get to know them very well,maybe invest your money for awhile,make them work for you and when it's time and you know you've found the right one...go for it!....they're great cars!
Good luck and let us know how it turned out!
I bought mine when I was about 3 yrs older than you and I've asked for advice here just like you did. I've received great help and I've always appreciated this forum.
I would walk away from this so called ' deal '. To me it smells fishy from the beginning to the end. A heavy modded car,lowered beyond GT2 specs,with wrong size tires and wearing them on the inside(toe=alignment....Accident? Frame damage?) and this is considered ' Normal ' ?! Are you kiddin' me?!
When it comes to these so called ' mechanics ' don't believe anything they're saying,unless they're part of your family or something...The ONLY way to buy a car like this is to have a PPI(Pre Purchase Inspection) at a Porsche dealer of your choice,where a Factory Trained Technician that knows these cars very well,with no interest whatsoever in your purchase,will perform a 100 plus points CPO sheet inspection,for a fee.
My advice is to walk in there like a cold blooded killer,with no emotions. When you're 25 and test drive one of these and feel that boost,your mind turns to mush,you get addicted,you don't think with your head anymore,but with your heart and might make a stupid decision.
Take your time,drive a few of these,compare them,get to know them very well,maybe invest your money for awhile,make them work for you and when it's time and you know you've found the right one...go for it!....they're great cars!
Good luck and let us know how it turned out!
07-12-2012, 11:15 AM
#26
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I'd like to echo a few of the comments above. Read especially Jeff's (JCB-Memphis) post above. These are the real issues to look for.
Those rear tires should be 295/30-18 not 285/30-18. Because of the AWD, one had to be very careful to match tired diameters on these cars. That is probably a typo, but it's important. Rear tires wear out quickly on these cars, so a lot of us have switched to Kumho or Sumitomo, which are good tires and half the price of Michelin.
Repairs on these cars are expensive, period. There is a list of common failures that you should look for, some of which are mentioned above:
> Rear spolier hydraulic
> Clutch slave/accumulator
> Second gear pop-out
> Front radiator leaks
> Diverter valves
> Boost leaks
Good luck!
Jon
Those rear tires should be 295/30-18 not 285/30-18. Because of the AWD, one had to be very careful to match tired diameters on these cars. That is probably a typo, but it's important. Rear tires wear out quickly on these cars, so a lot of us have switched to Kumho or Sumitomo, which are good tires and half the price of Michelin.
Repairs on these cars are expensive, period. There is a list of common failures that you should look for, some of which are mentioned above:
> Rear spolier hydraulic
> Clutch slave/accumulator
> Second gear pop-out
> Front radiator leaks
> Diverter valves
> Boost leaks
Good luck!
Jon
07-12-2012, 12:31 PM
#27
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Never,
This car does sound sketchy. It has been my experience that the first car you look at is rarely the right one. When I bought mine, I looked for about 2 months and considered four or five different cars. There are a lot of these cars on the market, don't just lock in to the first shiny one you see.
This is also personal opinion but buy a car that is stock and then make your own decision about mods. The stock car is a rocket.
EB
This car does sound sketchy. It has been my experience that the first car you look at is rarely the right one. When I bought mine, I looked for about 2 months and considered four or five different cars. There are a lot of these cars on the market, don't just lock in to the first shiny one you see.
This is also personal opinion but buy a car that is stock and then make your own decision about mods. The stock car is a rocket.
EB
07-12-2012, 12:52 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
As always, caveat emptor, especially true with a modified car.
^ Good check list, but no hydraulics, its got aerokit.
Note to OP, to date CPO has covered almost $10K worth of issues on mine. And this year my "maintenance" costs exceed $5K. (love my new clutch though).
^ Good check list, but no hydraulics, its got aerokit.
Note to OP, to date CPO has covered almost $10K worth of issues on mine. And this year my "maintenance" costs exceed $5K. (love my new clutch though).
07-12-2012, 05:00 PM
#30
Track Day
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I called the local Porsche Dealership where I am looking at the car and they are not available to do PPI's on Saturdays. When I asked where else they would recommend they suggested the mechanic and place who I am meeting with to look at the car and who has already done a PPI. I asked about his reputation (even though my dad has been using him for years and trusts him) and the dealership agreed that his is an expert on all things Porsche. Some of your suggestions have made me quite concerned, should this ease my mind at all?