Add oil to Spoiler reservoir/pump unit?
 

I've seen some posts on this and wonder what you know please?
I know I can replace the whole unit, but want to try a fix before I gho to that end.
THX.
MK

Buy the fixed wing kit or replace the unit ,everybody has tried diffrent things but it always seems to fail in time

Thought for sure I saw oil add?

wing it
 

i bought the kit on ebay... agree with previous post buy the kit save yourself the pain of numerous fixes over time. it took 45 minutes but i had practice removing the pump.

irie,
what was in the kit? Do you mean an OE "take off" ?
Thanks all.
MK

I have added oil with leak stop, solved it for about two months and leaked again.

I removed the whole thing and got the fixed wing kit. Uses stock parts and is easy to install. Find it on eBay for $150 I think.

Allows for manual adjustment.

bleeding instructions

spoiler

Thanks guys..........I'll let you know how it goes. No leaks.........just a bit low due to evaporation I think.
MK

the kit is on ebay.... evaporation???? the design is not robust from porsche i would just get the ebay kit but either way good luck!!!

With the installation of the eBay kit, does the wing have to be left in the UP position or can it be left in the DOWN position should I choose?

if in the up (I drive on track) you will not get alarms wing not working. If not full up you will get alarms if speed over 75 or there about. with the kit you can position wing anyplace you wish from down to full up.

OOPs sorry the kit is simply some correctly sized nuts bolts and washers and a skinny wrench. would I buy it again or try to figure it out knowing what I know now.... definitely buy the kit. Good Luck!

You can manually raise and lower the wing to whatever height you want. His latest kit gets the wing even higher. I just leave mine up now.

Results:
Here's waht I found/did to get my weing working again;

Check out the links provided above and in Six Speed that WROSS sent me too.....you have to dig a bit.

Genearl:
I fooled around a bit and disassembled an actuator only to lwearn what I could have seen in the links:
1) The actuators are really "caged" springs that hold the wing down. Inside they contain a hydraulically pressurized pin thats about 3/16 in. in diameter. It appears to rely on a very close fit to control leakage as I could see no seals at all.
2) the small actuator barrel (about 1/2" in diameter brass) inside of the spring is swaged together making any seal replacement (if there are in fact seals) near impossible.
3) with the spoiler fully retracted and the wing removed, you can extract the 3/16" pin with a magnet after you've pulled the big snap rings. ONLY pull the big snap rings with the pistons fully tretarcted or you'll get parts in the face - CAUTION!
4) I found that the larger, exposed, chrome plated pistons were worth removing (per set 3) because they were somewhat 'gummed' up below the exposed portion and could have been the root casue of my slow/no actuation and warning light.
5) the chrome pistons run in very nice teflon coated sleeve bearings and thus there is no need to lubricate as lube would only attract dirt.
6) note also that the "pump" is really an electric jack screw driving to parallel "syringe" like pistion to provde syncronus movement of the fin actuators.

TO Bleed/Flush the hydraulics:
a) raise the fin so as to remove it using the special spanner.
b) lower the fin actuators all the way (or the springs in the fin actuators will create pressure in the hyraulic lines).
c) access the pump under the engine lid so you can power it with 12V or a battery charger..........note that reversing polarity will reverse the pump direction.
d) with the fin pistons all the way down, disconnect one or the other (but only one) hydraulic hose from the bottom of an actuator.
d) submerge the hose end with the bango bolt and all in a clear cup of clean hyraulic fluid (Pentosin) and cycle the pyump full strokes back and forth a few times. It will very gently expel dirty fluid and air, and then suck in clean fluid. Continue until all the air is out and stop the pump is fully retracted, i.e. has sucked in a full charge of oil.
e) then I carefully reconnected the hose to the actuator trying to loose as little oil as possible (thus the reason to leave the banjo bolt in place and fully flooded with oil.
f) repaeted step e) with the other hose.
g) then cycled the whole system without the wing in place until you get consistent action. Then Synchronize per the book (see link above).
SYNCHRONIZE: (before wing is re-installed)
1) raise the pistons to mid position: the book says 35+/- 0.2 mm but I can't see that it specifically matters.
2) then measure the height of each from some common reference point on the actuator-----record the height measurements.
3) now, remembering that each piston is spring loaded down, and thus creating pressure in each hydraulic line, you can simply lower the higher of the two pistons by very slightly cracking the banjo bolt on the higher of the two actuators to let out fluid - a drop or two at a time only - until the piston retracts to the height of the other piston. Careful: if you carck that banjo bolt too far, oil will spray and the piston will drop to the bottom and you'll have to re-bleed that line.
4) if you go down a little to far bleeding the higher of the two pistons - OK - just swith to the other piston and let it down to match the other.
5) if when you are done the fin doesn't go high enough to the top, you let too much oil out of the system and you have to re-bleed both lines and start over.

Cycle the whole thing a few times to feel good about it the synmchronization and operation before re-installing the wing.

Good luck and thanks to all those who helped.
MK19