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my car makes that nails on chalkboard scream any time after a day or two particularly in summer heat.
i hate it. but i'm not pulling c4 to start the car lol. it IS a horrible sound though. oil STARVED rattle and screech. sounds like "scoring" in fact, but it ain't.
my car makes that nails on chalkboard scream any time after a day or two particularly in summer heat.
i hate it. but i'm not pulling c4 to start the car lol. it IS a horrible sound though. oil STARVED rattle and screech. sounds like "scoring" in fact, but it ain't.
haha that's why I just pull the fuse its so easy to do I have the fuse marked so its easy to see, only after sitting for a week or more. takes only a few seconds to build up pressures and it starts up nice and quiet no rattling or the can of bolts sound you would normally get.
It's a forum.. Good o'l oil threads.. LOL Running Redline 0W40/5W50 50/50% blend has reduced my IMS noise.
As Oak just wrote>>we have the option to pull the fuse so that we don't hear the rattle on start up. I do the very same thing. If the car sits for more than 2 to 3 weeks I pull the fuse on my cars. I pull the fuel pump relay on my Denali..
In shop class 40 plus years ago, we were taught to pull the coil wire on oil changes..
It's a forum.. Good o'l oil threads.. LOL Running Redline 0W40/5W50 50/50% blend has reduced my IMS noise.
As Oak just wrote>>we have the option to pull the fuse so that we don't hear the rattle on start up. I do the very same thing. If the car sits for more than 2 to 3 weeks I pull the fuse on my cars. I pull the fuel pump relay on my Denali..
In shop class 40 plus years ago, we were taught to pull the coil wire on oil changes..
I changed to Lubrication Engineers Monolec 5/30, had done the Mobil 1 route (EU) before. The IMS rattle can't be heard any longer. On another car of mine I have actually spun a rod bearing twice on startups that has been to dry. So never starting engines that has not been used for some weeks without any priming. A couple of thoughts from me: The sounds people are getting (rattles) is breakage of the oil film, so metal moving against metal makes those noises. Might not be a big deal, but microscopically it is. Bearings are so soft so they can be hand scratched from nails. When priming the oil pump makes a bit less flow volume than when idling, but then again the rpms are lower too. The big difference I think is on the rod bearings when priming. Then the rod bearings only take up the force from compression and the piston movements without combustion pressing on the bearings. The difference in pressure on the bearings is huge. Looking at lots of aircraft engines, they often have electrical priming pumps. Diesel locomotives have mechanical handpumps for priming. I'm not spinning another rod bearing and wasting 10.000+ of dollars on that disappointment again.
I changed to Lubrication Engineers Monolec 5/30, had done the Mobil 1 route (EU) before. The IMS rattle can't be heard any longer. On another car of mine I have actually spun a rod bearing twice on startups that has been to dry. So never starting engines that has not been used for some weeks without any priming. A couple of thoughts from me: The sounds people are getting (rattles) is breakage of the oil film, so metal moving against metal makes those noises. Might not be a big deal, but microscopically it is. Bearings are so soft so they can be hand scratched from nails. When priming the oil pump makes a bit less flow volume than when idling, but then again the rpms are lower too. The big difference I think is on the rod bearings when priming. Then the rod bearings only take up the force from compression and the piston movements without combustion pressing on the bearings. The difference in pressure on the bearings is huge. Looking at lots of aircraft engines, they often have electrical priming pumps. Diesel locomotives have mechanical handpumps for priming. I'm not spinning another rod bearing and wasting 10.000+ of dollars on that disappointment again.
What was the other car? Sounds like other issues to spin 2 rod bearings from not priming the motor. How many cars are on the road today? How many people actually do this? Little to none. I ask what the other car was out of curiosity. Remember oil weight is important for for bearing clearance to be able to flow through those small passages.
The consensus is that after you change the oil and rather than dry start it, you crank it to build oil pressure and get oil to the heads. Is there any reason to really do this? Probably not, but people do what they find comfortable. Some cars you'll notice a slight knock upon startup after a change. Never heard in on a P car of mine. Your logic isn't wrong. Sitting overnight, or better yet, days, has the same effect.
It's an extra care thing, normal driving causes wear too, and some people prefer NOT to even start their cars ... LOL... everyone must decide where they want to draw their lines, based on their own personal situation, fears, and goals.
I always pull the c4 fuse on first start up after winter storage. Also before doing an oil change I pull the fuse and crank the engine over a few times and then again after oil change before startup. I also always prime about a litre of oil directly into the filter inlet before installing the new filter. I have heard that if you directly prime the oil filter inlet with oil first it will actually make its way down to the turbos to prime them also, although I have never intensionally left the turbo drain plug out to see it it does indeed do this.
If you remove your turbo sump tank plugs you will see the oil move thru the turbochargers if you pour oil in the oil filter canister. My son has a video of this somewhere??!!
07-15-2019, 10:54 PM
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