jumper5836

What are the current alternatives for hydraulic clutch conversion to non hydraulic?

Kevin

For the most comprehensive Kit" is the factory installation of GT2/GT3 clutch slave components. Go to my clutch page and look at the hardware involved.

http://ultimatemotorwerks.com/clutch.html

You can remove the power steering pump BUT in my opinion I strongly recommend adding the new reservoir.

32krazy!

tilton hydraulic release bearing on a tilton clutch makes any other clutch seem antiquated

wross996tt

Am I missing something from the OP? The difference between the standard TT clutch and the GT2 is the TYPE of hydraulic fluid (one is Pentosin the other some DOT4 equivalent). None are non-hydraulic TMK!

lflouie

The difference is elimination of the clutch assist/accumulator which dampens the clutch action and can be in consistence on engagement point feel.

pfbz

If you really mean non-hydraulic, you will need to go back to an air cooled 911...

But if you mean improvement over the stock 996 system, it usually goes like this:

• Stock System. (Power steering pump boosted pentosin)
• Stock System with clutch switch removed to allow clutch-out stand and improve consistency.
• Stock System with fresh slave and accumulator.
• GT2-like setup with third party bracket. (non-Pentosin)
• True GT2 conversion with OEM GT2 reverse shift fork, slave, and pedal spring.. Drill/tap the alternate mounting bosses on the transmission, (non-Pentosin)

jumper5836

Thanks all, yes I meant a GT like conversion, didn't know the exact details that is was still hydraulic but with brake fluid. My main issue is the hard line from the slave pump forms a leak. I've replaced it 3 times now and it does this at the track wasting my track day or weekend. It has never done it driving on the street. I'd like a system that gets rid of this problem but sounds like a conversion may not help.

jumper5836

So I ended up doing the BBI Clutch Slave Cylinder Conversion. Anyone else have had it done?

I also have a upgrade clutch and pressure plate so it has more pressure then oem. Now the clutch is very heavy and I am looking at how to make it a little less. I got the kit with a clutch spring from what I think is a 997gt3 (997423081) bu it doesn't fit and is too large to install.
Would the 996 GT2 clutch spring (996423081) fit in a 01 Turbo?

2fcknfst

I Did the BBi conversion and Kevin's GT3RS clutch/PP - I love it and I don't find it very heavy at all.

Mind you, my left calf is easily three times bigger than my right one...

s65e90

Try the clutch spring, but the clutch is now very heavy cause you removed the assist. Can't have both.

jumper5836

you have a 996 tt with the 997 gt3rs clutch helper spring? My mechanic couldn't fit it on my car no room to install it.

Capt. Obvious

Tell me more about this, I'm not familiar with this idea. Does the clutch switch have something to do with how much assist there is? I thought it was just a safety switch for starting the car?

2fcknfst

Straight across factory GT3RS4.0 clutch kit, not modified.

F.A.

I am definitely not an expert but have been researching options heavily since my slave is leaking (ended up staying OEM since it is a street only car and I have not seen any driveability issues or a single stall with OEM setup). The only benefit I know of with removing the switch is it allows you to avoid the initial full clutch depression when the vehicle is off to start the car which can cause the slave or accumulator to fail. But with the added fear of the car getting started in gear at some point.

manimal

The benefit is that it doesn't depressurize the system, so if you have a leaky/failing slave, it maintains more consistent pedal feel.

When the clutch is depressed, even with the car off, the slave assist loses pressure. That's why some folks experience a moving/inconsistent engagement point. It definitely drove me insane, personally, feeling as if I had forgotten how to drive stick.