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Accumulator or Slave?

Old 06-20-2019, 01:44 PM
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Hosewater2
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Default Accumulator or Slave?

My clutch is stiff on cold start when sitting more than 12 hours, do I replace just the accumulator? How can I tell if slave is bad too? The clutch otherwise feels fine, maybe a trace more feedback but normal takeup points, no problems shifting. Power steering feels normal.

Last edited by Hosewater2; 06-20-2019 at 02:08 PM.
Old 06-20-2019, 02:20 PM
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wross996tt
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I believe consensus is when replacing either component, do both.
Old 06-20-2019, 02:28 PM
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manimal
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Not to discourage an actual fix, but if you wanted to try to live with it and postpone the repair, you can short the clutch switch so that you don't need to depress the clutch pedal to start the car. That way, the slave system retains pressure, and you maintain a more constant clutch feel (as long as you remember to start the car without depressing the clutch).
Old 06-20-2019, 02:35 PM
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Hosewater2
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I was wondering about that, but didn't know if it would cause other issues. My clutch feel is unchanged, as in it's the usual crappy feel that it's always had.
Old 06-20-2019, 03:24 PM
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lflouie
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Default Failure

Originally Posted by Hosewater2
My clutch is stiff on cold start when sitting more than 12 hours, do I replace just the accumulator? How can I tell if slave is bad too? The clutch otherwise feels fine, maybe a trace more feedback but normal takeup points, no problems shifting. Power steering feels normal.
Do you have other symptoms? Any leaks under car or excess fluid in clutch fluid reservoir/loss of fluid in PS, and if you can pump the clutch pedal over ~10 times before it stiffens....you likely have a bad slave cylinder.

If pedal stiffens immediately or after just a few strokes, it is most likely the accumulator.

If you replace slave, then yes replace the accumulator at the same time. If it is just accumulator no need to do the expense of the slave at this time.

My 07 tt just had the accumulator failure...internal failure of blatter.....only symptoms besides stiff pedal after a few days of no use, was low PS level bc the accumulator was storing fluid in the failed blatter within accumulator.
Old 06-20-2019, 03:33 PM
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Hosewater2
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It is stiff immediately when the car sits more than 8 hours or so. If it sits for less than that it's normal. Have not had any leaks under the car but I do need to look in the cowl, check fluid levels and such.
Old 06-20-2019, 08:23 PM
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pfbz
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Originally Posted by Hosewater2
...do I replace just the accumulator?
Originally Posted by manimal
... you can short the clutch switch so that you don't need to depress the clutch pedal to start the car....
Originally Posted by Hosewater2
I was wondering about that, but didn't know if it would cause other issues. .
The accumulator is a relatively easy job and only about $140 in parts (from discounter). It might or might not fix your problem, but worth a try... I have a brand new on on my shelf I'll sell for a decent price if you want one. I went to a full GT2 conversion before I got a chance to install a new accumulator.

You should absolutely do the clutch switch bypass. Zero other issues, other than making sure you keep the car in neutral when you start!



Old 06-20-2019, 08:31 PM
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manimal
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How much extra pedal effort is the GT2 setup?
Old 06-20-2019, 09:43 PM
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Hosewater2
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No leaks, I got in the frunk and managed to get the driver cowl trim out of the way (despite being unable to remove the Torx, must be stripped) and no evidence of any massive leak, things were maybe a bit bit greasy but not bad. Pentosin level at max. Did the clutch bypass, I’ll still get it in for the accumulator I suppose, or possibly the BBi just to be done with it. I don’t think I drive my car hard enough to go GT2.
Old 06-20-2019, 09:48 PM
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"02996ttx50
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at this stage of "it" my bet is it's only the accumulator. but following the advice upthread to simply jump the clutch switch is really the best option, both long term and also to probably even avoid needing to r&r the accumulator at all.

it takes "awhile" for a faulty accumulator to also impact the slave. i jumped my clutch switch many years ago, and have never had one single clutch issue or uneven pedal response since.

i must have bought 3 accumulators on this and my previous tt, before i jumped the switch. its a 10 minute deal and i prefer making sure the car is in neutral before i start it. it reminds me of porsche 911's.
Old 06-20-2019, 10:42 PM
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Kevinmacd
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Accumulators causes hard pedal, bad slave usually is due to a bad check valves and pentosin fills the master clutch cylinder and overflows! Just do your accumulator!
Old 06-21-2019, 12:03 AM
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911mhawk
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Originally Posted by manimal
How much extra pedal effort is the GT2 setup?
For a manimal, it's no issue.
Fine around town with a heavy PP IMO, and I'm no gym rat.
Old 06-21-2019, 12:08 AM
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manimal
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thanks.

I keep reminding myself I don't want to convert the car into a GT2 (it's not a GT2) nor a racecar (it's too nice of a street car) -- but I think the GT2 slave is on the list.
Old 06-21-2019, 01:47 AM
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pfbz
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My GT2 clutch only feels heavy on true stop and go traffic, or if I hop back in my car after driving a stock turbo with their ultra-soft clutches...
Old 06-22-2019, 12:13 AM
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Turbodan
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Originally Posted by Kevinmacd
Accumulators causes hard pedal, bad slave usually is due to a bad check valves and pentosin fills the master clutch cylinder and overflows! Just do your accumulator!
he said it was greasy in there and fluid was full...to me that means the check valve in the slave is faulty and slave requires replacing. It should be bone dry and not filled all the way.
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