PaulStewart

The VIN numbers don't match on my 3.6 Boxster conversion, all it does is confuse the emissions inspectors. Been that way for 40,000 miles and 7 years. Using the original VIN allows IPAS to give you the correct programming codes.

Highly recommend a compression test.

robflying

That's what I was told by the ECU guys but that the engine will perform as expected other wise.

mffarrell

32krazy!

theres a few tricks to be done to drop the trans and not the motor. it comes out fairly easy its harder to reinstall with the clutch fork rod but it can be done. pull the trans and try a 1 piece flywheel . not a cheap fix but on mine it fixed a major issue i had and driveability was greatly improved

robflying

Ok guys I seriously need help here. I ask cause the Porsche tech I've been speaking with doesn't have the time to spent on my project and I understand truly. Well I dropped the engine Checked the flywheel tooth count and its all good from the info I was given that is. I was told with #1 cyl at TDC there should be a 15 tooth count from sensor to the 2 missing teeth and there was so that indicates that the flywheel timing is proper. Now I'm wanting to check the cams before I set this beeach back into its place. Is there marks something I can follow, besides tearing the valves covers off, seams like such a task. I've read that on bank #1 the lobs have to be facing each other while on Bank #2 cylinder #4 I believe they must be opposite. Anyone dear God what a mess.

32krazy!

without the proper timing plates you are simply guessing at the timing. valve covers have to come off tdc is set cam bolts loosened and timing plates set in place. no other way .

i would also consider changing to a billet flywheel from a 3 piece unit

robflying

I am considering changing the flywheel, tho it seams weird too me. After talking with the porsche tech I've been speaking to. He says that these engines aren't known for jump timing, giving how low the mileage is and how clean it is and the fact that there seams to be no evidence of tampering of any sort he highly doubts that its cam timing. He did mention something on the vario setup but that it would still run, just not perform properly. Oh some one mentioned if I had checked compression answer is yes its reading between 150 to 155 cold of course.

32krazy!

Had mine for 6 yrs now. Active on 3 forums and a half dozen f/b pages. Friends with about 6 shops and countless backyard diy porsche builders. Never seen or heard of a single engine jumping time. Broken chains yes but never just jumped the chain. I would put that at the bottom of the possibility list

PaulStewart

Have you ruled out fuel pressure yet?

robflying

Yes 53psi, ordered a new fuel pump since I've read so many issues about this, tho while I was checking compression and spark, I also checked to see if the injectors where injecting into the combustion chamber and it was plus the plugs are wet. Someone had suggest to check the crank position sensor gap. So I went back and reset it. engine going back in next week wish me luck.

cdk4219

993GT

+1^
if its barking on quick start/ether/etc just keep feeding it and see if it continues after say 10 seconds, longer you can keep it running the more information you'll have...watch fuel pressure while doing this, get a datalog if you can

robflying

The DTC's that are present I believe are from the last stored engine reading, which are the O2 sensors, nothing else is showing. Like some here quoted this engine aren't know for jumping time, so unless I want to open a can of worms which at this time I don't care to, I will leave that one alone . Last owner assures me that the engine was running with no issues. I must take it faith, cause plugs tell a tale as been said and these plugs are clean, in other words worn plugs no fouling to note. The flywheel is a light weight aluminium but the reluctor wheel is steel, that shouldn't be the issue. As the ECU repair guys have told me and the confirmation of a post listed here cars VIN and modules VIN don't necessarily need to match for the system to function. So at this point search continues.

manimal

I'm just thinking out loud here as I am not an expert here, I just troubleshoot systems:

What's the easiest way to prove that the immobilizer isn't the issue?

I know you keep saying the ECU experts say "it shouldn't be an issue", but based on everything I'm reading:

1) the symptoms you describe are exactly in line with how an immobilizer issue would behave;
2) you haven't ruled that out, other than "it shouldn't be an issue";
3) everything else is working / there are no obvious culprits

Feel free to ignore if you disagree, but if I were you, I would focus on trying to prove that the immobilizer IS NOT causing your issue.

s65e90

All this work yet it seems you never changed the crank sensor itself. Why not? Easy to verify and it will cause a no start, crank only.