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Clutch replacement price check

Old 01-02-2019, 09:13 PM
  #16  
Carlo_Carrera
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Originally Posted by "02996ttx50 View Post
forgive me, but a DMFW alone is $800.00 Minimum...
A DMFW at rockauto.com is half that.

They have entire clutch kits including a DMFW for $800

Last edited by Carlo_Carrera; 01-02-2019 at 09:39 PM.
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Old 01-02-2019, 09:28 PM
  #17  
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I just did a clutch as well, ~62K miles on original clutch. I went with stock dual mass flywheel, GT2 clutch disk, Sachs 764 pressure plate.

The biggest "while your in there" job for me was opting to do a full factory style GT2 clutch slave hydraulics conversion...

For me, that was a OEM GT2 clutch slave, oem gt2 clutch fork, oem gt2 clutch hose, oem gt2 clutch pedal spring.

Labor for installing all of the above included drill and trap the transmission itself (for the opposite-side GT2 slave instead of flexy aftermarket bracket), reworking the power steering pump to remove the coupler that provided the clutch hydraulic pressure, flushing the master and any other reused parts from any residual pentosin, installing GT2 clutch pedal assist spring, etc.

My shop was at 8 hours labor for clutch plus 6 hours for the clutch hydraulic conversion.

While labor for the factory style GT2 clutch conversion is definitely more hours than installing some of the conversion kits out there, doing the factory style conversion with oem parts actually has a significantly lower parts cost to balance it out a bit.
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Old 01-02-2019, 09:51 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Carlo_Carrera View Post
A DMFW at rockauto.com is half that.

They have entire clutch kits including a DMFW for $800
really? the "LUK" was 800 last i checked. any provenance on the $400 DM flywheel? thats awful cheap.

i sit corrected. looks like i'll get my next one there. LUK DMF153 Dual Mass Flywheel Info
Turbo$442.99Add to CartBRUTE POWER/PERFECTION CLUTCH 502790 {#99611401250} Dual Mass Flywheel Info
For OE Dual Mass Flywheel System (Only 2 Remaining)$596.79
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Old 01-02-2019, 09:52 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by pfbz View Post
I just did a clutch as well, ~62K miles on original clutch. I went with stock dual mass flywheel, GT2 clutch disk, Sachs 764 pressure plate.

The biggest "while your in there" job for me was opting to do a full factory style GT2 clutch slave hydraulics conversion...

For me, that was a OEM GT2 clutch slave, oem gt2 clutch fork, oem gt2 clutch hose, oem gt2 clutch pedal spring.

Labor for installing all of the above included drill and trap the transmission itself (for the opposite-side GT2 slave instead of flexy aftermarket bracket), reworking the power steering pump to remove the coupler that provided the clutch hydraulic pressure, flushing the master and any other reused parts from any residual pentosin, installing GT2 clutch pedal assist spring, etc.

My shop was at 8 hours labor for clutch plus 6 hours for the clutch hydraulic conversion.

While labor for the factory style GT2 clutch conversion is definitely more hours than installing some of the conversion kits out there, doing the factory style conversion with oem parts actually has a significantly lower parts cost to balance it out a bit.
Can you feel the difference with the GT2 clutch disk?
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Old 01-02-2019, 10:06 PM
  #20  
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no difference in feel or clutch action when using the unsprung gt2 "rigid" disc....

so back off topic...after looking, that rock place is dirt cheap, i'll concede that. but even their OEM sachs clutch kit sans flywheel is over $800.00

apples to apples. i'm unfamiliar with those aftermarket names that sell "kits" for "half that" who knows. i'll stay with oem sachs stuff for my clutch as the clutch is a lousy place to "test parts" imo.
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Old 01-02-2019, 10:12 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by mffarrell View Post
Can you feel the difference with the GT2 clutch disk?
Oh yes.... A proper clutch! Firm but not silly firm pedal, crisp engagement, great clutch feel. Took about two minutes to adjust to the new clutch feel and am super happy with it.

996/997 Turbos are amazing cars, but Porsche IMHO had a huge swing-and-a-miss on these cars with the hydraulic assisted clutch system and hydraulic spoiler rams!

[whoops, I see you were asking about the clutch disc, not the clutch hydraulics... Above comments are for the entire system, not sure I can pick out the difference in the clutch disc only]
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Old 01-02-2019, 11:17 PM
  #22  
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ordinarily, i would agree on the hydraulically assisted clutch being problematic, often providing inconsistent feel. but i have found over these many years that once you eliminate the requirement of engaging the clutch "pre-igintion" by disabling the "switch", you will eliminate the undue stress to the accumulator which is the *usual* source of failure on the car which leads to fluid migration to the master, and accompanying slave issues etc.

switch eliminated? my clutch is "proper".

only thing i can say about the wing, is keep it clean and re-bleed as required. there is a reason porsche has factory "re-bleed' instructions for the spoiler. still works for me.
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Old 01-02-2019, 11:55 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by "02996ttx50 View Post
no difference in feel or clutch action when using the unsprung gt2 "rigid" disc....

so back off topic...after looking, that rock place is dirt cheap, i'll concede that. but even their OEM sachs clutch kit sans flywheel is over $800.00

apples to apples. i'm unfamiliar with those aftermarket names that sell "kits" for "half that" who knows. i'll stay with oem sachs stuff for my clutch as the clutch is a lousy place to "test parts" imo.
The aftermarket kits are just sachs parts. I bought the Luk gt2 kit and it was all sachs parts. They are apples to apples just don't carry the sachs packaging.

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turbo-forum-61/
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Old 01-03-2019, 01:03 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 88mmm View Post
The aftermarket kits are just sachs parts. I bought the Luk gt2 kit and it was all sachs parts. They are apples to apples just don't carry the sachs packaging.

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turbo-forum-61/
i don't know that, but you do(?). i do know the LUK is an OEM supplier and that is good enough for me.

the other bits? again, i would experiment with parts like i.e. brake pads and many other maintenance items, but unless i was certain beyond any reasonable doubt. i wouldn't put aftermarket generic clutch parts in unless i was building out the usual hi perf upgrades. sachs is sachs, though.

good for you, for finding them so inexpensively. hopefully they end up being "oem" equivalent. i last changed my clutch at 100k miles. i hope to need another replacement, ten years from now.
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Old 01-03-2019, 01:39 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by "02996ttx50 View Post
ordinarily, i would agree on the hydraulically assisted clutch being problematic, often providing inconsistent feel. but i have found over these many years that once you eliminate the requirement of engaging the clutch "pre-igintion" by disabling the "switch", you will eliminate the undue stress to the accumulator which is the *usual* source of failure on the car which leads to fluid migration to the master, and accompanying slave issues etc.

switch eliminated? my clutch is "proper".
I agree that deactivating the "clutch in to start" switch and starting in neutral really helps... It helped me live with my clutch for an extra year.

But even with the improvement in consistency, it's like night and day moving to the GT2 clutch, from livable to awesome. I'm sure opinions differ, and I wouldn't be quick to do the swap unless the transmission was already down for a clutch replacement or if your slave has failed, but the difference is quite noticeable and changes the feel dramatically for the better, IMHO of course!
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Old 01-03-2019, 02:54 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by pfbz View Post
I agree that deactivating the "clutch in to start" switch and starting in neutral really helps... It helped me live with my clutch for an extra year.

But even with the improvement in consistency, it's like night and day moving to the GT2 clutch, from livable to awesome. I'm sure opinions differ, and I wouldn't be quick to do the swap unless the transmission was already down for a clutch replacement or if your slave has failed, but the difference is quite noticeable and changes the feel dramatically for the better, IMHO of course!
i have no doubt the proper gt2 conversion, is optimal and know also the rube goldberg hydraulics weren't configured for either of us. the original target buyers or their husbands, perhaps?

i just haven't had to "spend" to make my clutch as "good" as oem/stock can be. the only issues that contribute to clutch inconsistencies, are those that have to do with the "clutch in" requirement as you say. this is factual. that said, i also agree the *feel* of a "non assisted" clutch is "best".
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Old 01-03-2019, 10:59 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by pfbz View Post
I agree that deactivating the "clutch in to start" switch and starting in neutral really helps... It helped me live with my clutch for an extra year.

But even with the improvement in consistency, it's like night and day moving to the GT2 clutch, from livable to awesome. I'm sure opinions differ, and I wouldn't be quick to do the swap unless the transmission was already down for a clutch replacement or if your slave has failed, but the difference is quite noticeable and changes the feel dramatically for the better, IMHO of course!
What's this about deactivating the "clutch in to start"? How do I do that?
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Old 01-03-2019, 01:39 PM
  #28  
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We charge 8 hours for the clutch job on a 996TT. Also good time to check rear main seal. If we convert to GT2 hydraulics (which are GREAT in these cars) it is 4 hours for the Evoms unit and 2 hours for the BBi unit. The BBi is simpler to install, but more $$ upfront. Both work fine.
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Old 01-03-2019, 01:58 PM
  #29  
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my factory clutch also died at 40K miles. Fortunately for me, I bought the car with 44K miles so the previous owner paid big bucks for a factory clutch from a local San Diego Porsche dealer. If I was changing the clutch on my time / my dime, I'd address those coolant lines at the same time!
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Old 01-03-2019, 02:16 PM
  #30  
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there is a switch at the pedals ( the clutch ) that once disconnected will eliminate the requirement of engaging the clutch to start the car. once you do this, you won't need to replace the accumulator or have engagement issues. again, as long as all you internal clutch components are within "spec" and not unduly "worn". inconsistent clutch feel has to do with the hydraulics and not the clutch itself.

im sure there are many DIY threads on this. ( i spent 20 mins trying to find just one. to no avail.. sorry )

Last edited by "02996ttx50; 01-03-2019 at 02:54 PM.
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