iotapi322

From the guys that have put on lowering springs and sway bars...

I have sitting in a couple of boxes the GMG sway bars and the H&R Lowering Springs, going on to a stock 2002. Doing this to bring the car down a bit lower and to dial out a little bit of the turn in and get some more straight line stability at speed, hopefully corner a bit flatter. Anyway for the guys that have already done this. Would you do everything while you were in there or would you do one first then come back and do the other?
For example come in first and replace the sway bars then come in later and do the lowering springs?

Follow up, with the stock struts being used... I've read some negatives about keeping the stock struts. Opinions from people that have kept the stock struts with the H&R lowering springs, I've read that it can make the ride unsettled and 'bounce'. True not true?

Car has 58k miles so still not even broken in yet. New Bridgestone SO-2's on the front, three year old Bridgestone SO-2's on the rear.

Thanks for all your opinions.

Third-Reef

I did Eibach sways first and then the H&R springs. I see no reason to wait, do both. I would not run the H&R springs with stock shocks, especially used ones. The Bilstien B8s are designed for lowering as they are shorter, this is considered the best entry level suspension set up. H&R are low, be prepared to replace the front lip several times before you master the art of dodging dips and curbs.

Carlo_Carrera

Do both. Changing out the bars is cake.

iotapi322

Really glad to get you gents opinion on this. - I tried getting the B8 shocks and was on back order for 6 months... and then I just gave up. I'll try again.

I consider the $90 ebay front aero lip a consumable item like brake pads... :-)

Third-Reef

I am on my 4th front Aero lip. first after B&H lasted 1 week, second was a month, third was a year. fourth is going on 4 months now and doing OK.

Road King

Because I can't really lower my car due to a steep driveway angle here in SF, I did sway bars only. Went with GMG, and they really helped eliminate some of the understeer.

Fast forward 3.5 years, I'm about to move across the Bay, new place has as very easy driveway, so I'm eventually going to lower the car, will probably do H&Rs and Bilsteins.

iotapi322

Quick follow up, did any of you get rear adjustable links? Meaning that because of the lowering you had issues with too much camber?

"02996ttx50

toe. lowered cars needs adj toe links to adjust for the WOT squat. that kills inner rear tread wear.

Third-Reef

I did Elephant Racing eccentric toe rod bushings to allow the toe and camber to be brought into spec. This is the cheapest route. If I did it again I would do adjustable toe rods with the bump steer correction.

iotapi322

Thank you, this is really good information.

iotapi322

Thank you sir, Definitely saved my rear tires.

Dock

It depends on how careful you are with managing potential scrape areas.

ace17

My issue with the H&R stance is the rear is too high. Don’t like that look. Anybody ever cut a coil or half coil on the rear? I’m sure I’ll get mashed on for even asking!

I was actually asking for a friend!

Third-Reef

What are your fender arch measurements? Mine ended up with the "ideal" 1/4 of rake. That tiny bit of lift in the rear is supposed to add to high speed stability. If you cut a half a coil off you would on the ground and buying new springs.

ace17

or a 1/4 coil? Just depends on much between winds on the coil.