Clutch. Tell me what I already know? ;-)
#1
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Thread Starter
Clutch. Tell me what I already know? ;-)
2001 Turbo
- Six speed. 62K miles.
- OTS Cobb stage 1 tune
- Original clutch (at least to my knowledge and by all the service records I have which are pretty complete).
- Stock PS assisted cluch setup, master, slave, accumulator. No overflow or fluid loss at brake master reservoir.
Clutch engagement point has always been a bit wonky with some variation, but things got much better after I took the advice of a respected resident tuner and disconnected the clutch switch and don't press the clutch pedal before starting (in neutral of course).
Now my clutch engagement point is getting really high, much more difficult to modulate (I stalled it at a light for the first time ever today, how embarrassing), but no detectable slippage (though my car isn't making extreme tuned power and I'm very gentle on it overall).
From what I've read, the very high engagement point is a sign that the clutch about done, but with no slippage I just want to get any other opinions... I'll likely do the clutch myself, which will be a PITA without a lift, taking my car out of commission for a while not to mention the $ for a Sachs 2.5 and the possible slippery slope of "while the transmission is out" GT2 clutch conversion for even more time and expense...
So, anybody think it's not a worn clutch disk??
- Six speed. 62K miles.
- OTS Cobb stage 1 tune
- Original clutch (at least to my knowledge and by all the service records I have which are pretty complete).
- Stock PS assisted cluch setup, master, slave, accumulator. No overflow or fluid loss at brake master reservoir.
Clutch engagement point has always been a bit wonky with some variation, but things got much better after I took the advice of a respected resident tuner and disconnected the clutch switch and don't press the clutch pedal before starting (in neutral of course).
Now my clutch engagement point is getting really high, much more difficult to modulate (I stalled it at a light for the first time ever today, how embarrassing), but no detectable slippage (though my car isn't making extreme tuned power and I'm very gentle on it overall).
From what I've read, the very high engagement point is a sign that the clutch about done, but with no slippage I just want to get any other opinions... I'll likely do the clutch myself, which will be a PITA without a lift, taking my car out of commission for a while not to mention the $ for a Sachs 2.5 and the possible slippery slope of "while the transmission is out" GT2 clutch conversion for even more time and expense...
So, anybody think it's not a worn clutch disk??
#2
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If the engagement starts rising (higher than normal) and if the pedal travel gets rough, you might have cracks in the diaphragm/spring components in the pressure plate.
I recommend the dual mass with 764 pressure plate and GT2 clutch disk "IF" you don't track your car. It has a better pedal and engagement vs the Sachs 2.5 kit
http://ultimatemotorwerks.com/clutch.html
I recommend the dual mass with 764 pressure plate and GT2 clutch disk "IF" you don't track your car. It has a better pedal and engagement vs the Sachs 2.5 kit
http://ultimatemotorwerks.com/clutch.html
#3
Rennlist Member
I personally like the lighter pedal feel of stock. I've driven multiple 996 GT3's and really disliked how heavy the clutch pedal feel was. That said, I agree with Kevin, looks like a clutch is in your near future. I'm happy to lend a hand.
#4
Drifting
2001 Turbo
- Six speed. 62K miles.
- OTS Cobb stage 1 tune
- Original clutch (at least to my knowledge and by all the service records I have which are pretty complete).
- Stock PS assisted cluch setup, master, slave, accumulator. No overflow or fluid loss at brake master reservoir.
Clutch engagement point has always been a bit wonky with some variation, but things got much better after I took the advice of a respected resident tuner and disconnected the clutch switch and don't press the clutch pedal before starting (in neutral of course).
Now my clutch engagement point is getting really high, much more difficult to modulate (I stalled it at a light for the first time ever today, how embarrassing), but no detectable slippage (though my car isn't making extreme tuned power and I'm very gentle on it overall).
From what I've read, the very high engagement point is a sign that the clutch about done, but with no slippage I just want to get any other opinions... I'll likely do the clutch myself, which will be a PITA without a lift, taking my car out of commission for a while not to mention the $ for a Sachs 2.5 and the possible slippery slope of "while the transmission is out" GT2 clutch conversion for even more time and expense...
So, anybody think it's not a worn clutch disk??
- Six speed. 62K miles.
- OTS Cobb stage 1 tune
- Original clutch (at least to my knowledge and by all the service records I have which are pretty complete).
- Stock PS assisted cluch setup, master, slave, accumulator. No overflow or fluid loss at brake master reservoir.
Clutch engagement point has always been a bit wonky with some variation, but things got much better after I took the advice of a respected resident tuner and disconnected the clutch switch and don't press the clutch pedal before starting (in neutral of course).
Now my clutch engagement point is getting really high, much more difficult to modulate (I stalled it at a light for the first time ever today, how embarrassing), but no detectable slippage (though my car isn't making extreme tuned power and I'm very gentle on it overall).
From what I've read, the very high engagement point is a sign that the clutch about done, but with no slippage I just want to get any other opinions... I'll likely do the clutch myself, which will be a PITA without a lift, taking my car out of commission for a while not to mention the $ for a Sachs 2.5 and the possible slippery slope of "while the transmission is out" GT2 clutch conversion for even more time and expense...
So, anybody think it's not a worn clutch disk??
#5
Rennlist Member
Transmission jacks are cheap from Harbor Freight. Is the under engine support that expensive? I've heard you can just drop the transmission to replace the clutch. However if you're planning on pinning the coolant pipes it may make sense to drop the entire engine/transmission so you can do it all together.
#6
Drifting
Transmission jacks are cheap from Harbor Freight. Is the under engine support that expensive? I've heard you can just drop the transmission to replace the clutch. However if you're planning on pinning the coolant pipes it may make sense to drop the entire engine/transmission so you can do it all together.
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#8
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#10
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I've seen a few threads discussing pulling the engine without a lift, so I imagine you could also drop the transmission alone. My esco jack stands can go pretty high, but I think it would be a multiple step process to get it up on all four stands at max height, and the threads I've seen don't soft-sell the PITA factor of doing it without a lift...
#13
Three Wheelin'
2001 Turbo
- Six speed. 62K miles.
- OTS Cobb stage 1 tune
- Original clutch (at least to my knowledge and by all the service records I have which are pretty complete).
- Stock PS assisted cluch setup, master, slave, accumulator. No overflow or fluid loss at brake master reservoir.
Clutch engagement point has always been a bit wonky with some variation, but things got much better after I took the advice of a respected resident tuner and disconnected the clutch switch and don't press the clutch pedal before starting (in neutral of course).
Now my clutch engagement point is getting really high, much more difficult to modulate (I stalled it at a light for the first time ever today, how embarrassing), but no detectable slippage (though my car isn't making extreme tuned power and I'm very gentle on it overall).
From what I've read, the very high engagement point is a sign that the clutch about done, but with no slippage I just want to get any other opinions... I'll likely do the clutch myself, which will be a PITA without a lift, taking my car out of commission for a while not to mention the $ for a Sachs 2.5 and the possible slippery slope of "while the transmission is out" GT2 clutch conversion for even more time and expense...
So, anybody think it's not a worn clutch disk??
- Six speed. 62K miles.
- OTS Cobb stage 1 tune
- Original clutch (at least to my knowledge and by all the service records I have which are pretty complete).
- Stock PS assisted cluch setup, master, slave, accumulator. No overflow or fluid loss at brake master reservoir.
Clutch engagement point has always been a bit wonky with some variation, but things got much better after I took the advice of a respected resident tuner and disconnected the clutch switch and don't press the clutch pedal before starting (in neutral of course).
Now my clutch engagement point is getting really high, much more difficult to modulate (I stalled it at a light for the first time ever today, how embarrassing), but no detectable slippage (though my car isn't making extreme tuned power and I'm very gentle on it overall).
From what I've read, the very high engagement point is a sign that the clutch about done, but with no slippage I just want to get any other opinions... I'll likely do the clutch myself, which will be a PITA without a lift, taking my car out of commission for a while not to mention the $ for a Sachs 2.5 and the possible slippery slope of "while the transmission is out" GT2 clutch conversion for even more time and expense...
So, anybody think it's not a worn clutch disk??
#15
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
That said, I've probably jinxed myself and I'll probably start it in gear and crash into my toolbox in front of the car tomorrow.