Newbie with mod. ?
#16
I am trying to buy the correct exhaust for my car. I asked John at speedtech if the 2.5 X-cellerator came with a 200 cell and his response was we can build it with a 200 cell cat. but this exhaust performs much better with a 100 cell cat. I was told the 100 cell cat. would pass CA sniff test. I am just trying to find out why would you go with 100 cell instead of a 200 cell if the the 100 cell cat. will give you better performance.
Trying to decide on an exhaust has been exhausting! once I feel like I figured it out i find out something else. If the cost was only a few hundred dollars I would buy a half dozen of them and try them all out to see which one I like best but we are talking about $2K-$5K and I would hate to spend that kind of money and be disappointed. Not looking to squeeze every possible HP out of this just want to amke sure I will be happy with it.
Trying to decide on an exhaust has been exhausting! once I feel like I figured it out i find out something else. If the cost was only a few hundred dollars I would buy a half dozen of them and try them all out to see which one I like best but we are talking about $2K-$5K and I would hate to spend that kind of money and be disappointed. Not looking to squeeze every possible HP out of this just want to amke sure I will be happy with it.
#17
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Do you know what size your internal exhaust piping is in the stock 996TT exhaust? Do your homework.
Statement: the 2.75 or 70mm piping is the optimal sizing for the stock and mid power 996TT.
Statement: the 3.0 piping exhaust is the preferred piping diameter for POWER applications (drone is induced due to the size of piping)
Statement: a 2.5" exhaust with 100 cell cats will not match the FLOW and power with a 2.75" exhaust and 200 cell cats(130/132mm diameter)
Statement: A 3.0" exhaust with 200 cell(130/132mm) exhaust will flow and support near 800HP(easily)
You might need to go back to your drawing board and wish list. Look for a 2.75" exhaust and 200 cell HJS cats.. There are "many" systems out there that have this design>>you will have to raise your budget.
Statement: the 2.75 or 70mm piping is the optimal sizing for the stock and mid power 996TT.
Statement: the 3.0 piping exhaust is the preferred piping diameter for POWER applications (drone is induced due to the size of piping)
Statement: a 2.5" exhaust with 100 cell cats will not match the FLOW and power with a 2.75" exhaust and 200 cell cats(130/132mm diameter)
Statement: A 3.0" exhaust with 200 cell(130/132mm) exhaust will flow and support near 800HP(easily)
You might need to go back to your drawing board and wish list. Look for a 2.75" exhaust and 200 cell HJS cats.. There are "many" systems out there that have this design>>you will have to raise your budget.
#18
Great. Thanks for the information. This is the type of information I need before I spend $$$ on something that I will not be happy with. Finding the right exhaust is not as easy as I thought it was going to be.
#19
Getting ready to order the b8's and springs and I want to make sure I order the correct top mounts and springs. I see the H & R springs in black and red that lower thew car by 1" . Are these the correct springs:
https://www.vividracing.com/sport-sp...05-p-1706.html
Also on the top mounts are they just for the rear and can is the oem brand good?
https://thmotorsports.com/9256338-ge...k-mount-flange
https://www.elephantracing.com/porsc...t-for-996-997/
Rear toe link is necessary to get proper alignment and tire wear?
Thanks for you help. I don't know anything about about suspension parts. What should cost be on shocks and struts?
https://www.vividracing.com/sport-sp...05-p-1706.html
Also on the top mounts are they just for the rear and can is the oem brand good?
https://thmotorsports.com/9256338-ge...k-mount-flange
https://www.elephantracing.com/porsc...t-for-996-997/
Rear toe link is necessary to get proper alignment and tire wear?
Thanks for you help. I don't know anything about about suspension parts. What should cost be on shocks and struts?
Last edited by ceeyahd1; 11-13-2018 at 01:16 AM.
#20
If I live in CA where 91 octane is the only thing available, not planning on tracking my car and only doing exhaust, suspension, tune and shifter. What would be my best bet for a tune? Monitoring different settings as with the COBB would be something that is useless to me as I am only looking to have a something fast to drive when I feel like taking my car out for a burst or two.
What do you guys suggest to keep the cost down to get what I want? Is $1,100 to $1,600 is what I found on the COBB or Softronics. Are diverter valves something I need to upgrade?
Again. Thanks in advance for your advice.
What do you guys suggest to keep the cost down to get what I want? Is $1,100 to $1,600 is what I found on the COBB or Softronics. Are diverter valves something I need to upgrade?
Again. Thanks in advance for your advice.
#21
Getting ready to order the b8's and springs and I want to make sure I order the correct top mounts and springs. I see the H & R springs in black and red that lower thew car by 1" . Are these the correct springs:
https://www.vividracing.com/sport-sp...05-p-1706.html
Also on the top mounts are they just for the rear and can is the oem brand good?
https://thmotorsports.com/9256338-ge...k-mount-flange
https://www.elephantracing.com/porsc...t-for-996-997/
Rear toe link is necessary to get proper alignment and tire wear?
Thanks for you help. I don't know anything about about suspension parts. What should cost be on shocks and struts?
https://www.vividracing.com/sport-sp...05-p-1706.html
Also on the top mounts are they just for the rear and can is the oem brand good?
https://thmotorsports.com/9256338-ge...k-mount-flange
https://www.elephantracing.com/porsc...t-for-996-997/
Rear toe link is necessary to get proper alignment and tire wear?
Thanks for you help. I don't know anything about about suspension parts. What should cost be on shocks and struts?
https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog..._pg2.htm#item5
here's your H&R ( SPORT ) springs https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog..._pg1.htm#item2 though there's no pic. make sure they are RED ( ask them ). they'll drop the car an inch or a smidgen more. if you dont want the car lowered? just get OEM springs.
if you lower the car? you'll wan't/need some adjustable to links to mitigate excessive inner tread wear on rears owing to pronounced "squat". I use torque solutions http://www.torquesolution.com/product-p/ts-por-003.htm
#22
you can find 100. ya just gotta look around for it.
re a tune? Kevin in your thread here, can help you as well as any tuner ever could. but given you're in CA sambo @by design is also equally adept and knowledgeable and if you buy from him, you'll be able to torture him ad nauseum with questions you will have with the car ( which he will also answer.. as will UMW Kevin ) from now and until hell freezes over. all, at no extra charge.. GL.
re a tune? Kevin in your thread here, can help you as well as any tuner ever could. but given you're in CA sambo @by design is also equally adept and knowledgeable and if you buy from him, you'll be able to torture him ad nauseum with questions you will have with the car ( which he will also answer.. as will UMW Kevin ) from now and until hell freezes over. all, at no extra charge.. GL.
#27
backing plates: i've only ever r&r'd the fronts. black springs are OEM and red are "sport" and will lower the car .call kevin,.. take advantage of his "offer".. and ask him more stuff. he will help more ably lol. GL.
add: 845 for a UMW tune plus support is a "faggedaboudit". just do it.
add: 845 for a UMW tune plus support is a "faggedaboudit". just do it.
#28
Three Wheelin'
Based on my experiences here in the Bay Area, it doesn't really matter if you buy 100 or 200 cell cats with your exhaust.
Neither will pass the visual, so unless your smog shop is 'friendly', it's a FAIL.
There is no longer a 'sniff test' on exhaust emissions, they simply plug into the OBD II port and and do their sniffing there.
The best strategy IMO opinion is to buy the exhaust you like, and swap it out for stock every 2 years for the bi-annual test. Guaranteed to pass....
Neither will pass the visual, so unless your smog shop is 'friendly', it's a FAIL.
There is no longer a 'sniff test' on exhaust emissions, they simply plug into the OBD II port and and do their sniffing there.
The best strategy IMO opinion is to buy the exhaust you like, and swap it out for stock every 2 years for the bi-annual test. Guaranteed to pass....
#29
Burning Brakes
With any exhaust build/purchase as a consumer I would request 200 cell 130/132mm HJS cats. This will prolong the life of your cats and offer years of service vs the dreaded CAT inefficiency CEL. Which will trigger your emission non readiness codes. Pay the extra monies to get at a minimum 130mm or 5 inch diameter HJS cats.
Thanks
TK