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tl;dr: Is my brand new ignition switch faulty? Can I test it?
A couple of weeks ago I was getting a setup done on a guitar at a GC where a friend works. I go to leave, turn the key, dash lights up/radio comes on as normal, turn to start and... nothing. No click, no crank, no nothing.
I do a quick bit of research online, check what I can, hook up my booster pack to the battery, etc but still nothing.
I have my friend and another customer give me a push start and the car comes to life, drives like normal, and gets me home.
That was a nerve wracking drive home as I was overthinking NOT stalling the car out, which doesn't really ever happen, but would be especially embarrassing on the side of the road flagging down someone to give me another push haha.
I do some more research here and on other sites, and conclude that the ignition switch is likely bad. I order a new switch and replace it. Nothing. Same issue.
I move on to checking the clutch safety switch by bypassing it. Still nothing.
I check to see if I get power at the starter solenoid, which I do. But I get no power from the solenoid to the starter when the key is turned to start.
I read a bit about the starter relay. I'm not very familiar with electrical systems so I didn't want to do much, but I swapped the relay from #2 into #7 (like swapping coil packs when chasing a misfire) and I got nothing. Still no crank, no start.
My battery seems good (waiting to get flamed on this, we'll see what you guys say) as I keep it on a tender, have had 0 issues indicative of a bad battery, and am getting power back at the starter solenoid.
Duramatric scan shows no codes.
THEN I notice that suddenly I have no radio, no heater/AC, no window switch operation. (the windows still lower/go up when doors are opened or closed).
Those functions rely on the ignition switch, correct?
Is it possible that I got a faulty switch from Pelican?
Can the switch be tested somehow to verify that is is good/not good?
I opened a ticket with them concerning the switch just to get the ball rolling and get some input.
Am I overlooking something that I am unaware of that is different from Japanese tuner cars where my roots lie?
Thanks in advance for any advice you may have to offer.
It's definitely possible. First question - did you get the cheap switch ($12) or the more expensive switch ($27)? Here's a link to the 2 different ones (actually 4 different ones - good and cheap old style, good and cheap new style):
(BTW, Warehouse33auto.com is a sponsor here and has prices normally cheaper than Pelican, plus they give another 10% off by using promo code "996outpost" or "Rennlist", just sayin')
Anyhow, if you bought the cheap switch, I'd say a much higher chance of it being bad than if you bought the quality one. On my '99 C4 (same part), I went with the cheapo model when I replaced it the first time. That one lasted about 3 months before I had to replace it. The cheap ones are junk - the only reason to buy one of them is that NAPA keeps them in stock in their local stores, so it can get you out of a jam if you need it right now.
tl;dr: Is my brand new ignition switch faulty? Can I test it?
Is it possible that I got a faulty switch from Pelican?
Can the switch be tested somehow to verify that is is good/not good?
I opened a ticket with them concerning the switch just to get the ball rolling and get some input.
Pelican says that each switch is tested thoroughly and they don't have records of any being bad out of the box.
I see testing and retesting, maybe swapping back to the old switch to see if I get back my radio/window/heat & AC functions in my future.
I used the $12 switch and it works like a charm the past 2 years. I've been told it is a good idea to have another back up switch in case/when this happens again, regardless of VW one or OEM one.
For anybody interested, I've tested the #7 relay by energizing w 12v and then looking at resistance across the remaining 2 pins. I also did the same with the #1 relay. They both check out fine.
I'm getting 12v at the #1 relay socket but not at #7, but I'm not sure if the key has to be turned to the start position to get 12v going to it.
I'm skeptical of this replacement switch I bought.
Remember, I'm suddenly not getting radio/window switch/heater & ac operation... which all would have to be going through the ignition switch to come in. All fuses are good.
I'll now let you get back to discussing speakers, floor mats, and car covers.
Does anyone here know if there is a diagram for the harness that plugs into the ignition switch?
Or do you guys know if there is a constant 12v power coming to the ignition switch, which wire in the plug that would be?
I've got 2 new switches that give me the same result as the old switch, and I do not have any juice coming through the plug into that switch. Anyone have an idea?
Also, suddenly one of my headlights doesn't function. Along with no gauges, radio, window switches, and of course no start.
Battery was load tested & checks out fine, clutch switch is fine, etc
Ugh, electrical problems. I was really hoping it would be a bad ignition switch. It still really sounds like an ignition switch, but obviously getting the same results with 3 parts means the chances are nearly zero that it's the culprit. I wonder if you still have the original entire ignition assembly (the "pistol"). I was under the impression that you only needed to swap the entire pistol out if there was a mechanical issue like the steering wheel lock would not release. However, maybe you do need the entire assembly. At this point, though, we're just guessing and I doubt you want to just keep throwing parts at it, especially parts that are expensive and difficult to replace (as opposed to just the electrical portion of the ignition switch). It might be time for a trip to your mechanic.
Ugh, electrical problems. I was really hoping it would be a bad ignition switch. It still really sounds like an ignition switch, but obviously getting the same results with 3 parts means the chances are nearly zero that it's the culprit. I wonder if you still have the original entire ignition assembly (the "pistol"). I was under the impression that you only needed to swap the entire pistol out if there was a mechanical issue like the steering wheel lock would not release. However, maybe you do need the entire assembly. At this point, though, we're just guessing and I doubt you want to just keep throwing parts at it, especially parts that are expensive and difficult to replace (as opposed to just the electrical portion of the ignition switch). It might be time for a trip to your mechanic.
I'm leaning toward that direction.
I called my insurance provider for towing coverage info, and my local indy shop to check on their timing, and I can be ready to go in short order.
I really hate the idea of taking it to a shop but I'm about at my wits end and I have exceeded my knowledge with electrical systems.
Really trying NOT to fall into the stereotype of "supercar/exotic/performance car/whatever owner who can't turn his own wrenches" but I'd like to wrap this up before winter and I don't see myself getting any closer without a pro stepping in.
10-18-2018, 10:35 AM
New ignition switch faulty?
