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The BBI piece fits into the same location as the stock Turbo slave without modifying the trans case and replacing the clutch forks, and has a bypass for the hydraulic pressure from the PS pump. It looks to be installable with the engine in the car. I believe there are other companies that make a similar soultion using a fabricated mounting bracket for the OE GT2 slave; I have read of potential issues with bracket flex.
The OEM GT2 slave is on the passenger's side of the trans case and requires milling the case flat, drilling & tapping some new holes, replacing the clutch forks, and plugging the original Turbo slave hole. Then either add a bypass for the PS pump or switch to a Tiptronic pump without the clutch pressure output & remove the clutch hydraulic lines. This appears to require an engine out service.
Either way needs the clutch master & lines flushed of Pentosin or replaced.
gt2 slave is mounted on the drivers side not passenger. and theres no need to mill the mounting base its already flat and ready to tap for studs. you could connect the 2 hydraulic lines together if you wanted to eliminate the need to remove the lines. remove the coupler in the p/s pump and no fluid moves thru the lines oem slave hole is capped with a simple plug from home depot
Yes I got my sides backwards.
The threads about installing the GT2 slave all said that the case surface needed to be machined flat to take the slave - you're saying that is not required?
I haven't done either of these yet.
most of the failures are because the pentosin is not fully removed. Find a shop that can do this - and fully remove the pentosin - and it's a nice update
This. I have the BBI upgrade and its fine once we got it bled properly. Going on 2 years and still love the feel. O do have the GT2 helper spring. It is a must. If I were to do it again though, I would have done the GT2 full drill and tap when I had the trans out. I looked at the BBI conversion as a reversible mod if I didnt like the stiff clutch. Doesnt make much sense now though since I like the feel. Live and learn.
Yes I got my sides backwards.
The threads about installing the GT2 slave all said that the case surface needed to be machined flat to take the slave - you're saying that is not required?
I haven't done either of these yet.
if you look at the pics in the following post you can see the housing is already flat. what you need to do is mount the gt2 clutch fork and see if it hits the inside of the bellhousing during its swing. a small dremel easily clearances the housing
if ypou pull the rod out of the gt2 slave set it at the edge of the housing you can mark the mounting lug holes. about 1" deep. you can see the outline of the stud boss. center between the studs make a 3/4" hole. done
So, it turns out that the accumulator that was dealer replaced in circa 2015 came loose and was only a few turns away from complete departure. The o-ring was torn in one spot. I ordered a new $25 o-ring and my indy buttoned everything up and it's as good as new.
Thanks for the feedback on the GT2 conversion. I suspect the driving characteristics would appeal to my preferences, but for the 2,000 miles or so that she rolls each year, I'll just have to suffer through life with the stock assisted unit.
You should bypass the clutch switch as this may cause premature failure of the accumulator.
You should drive her more though
100%. i did this years ago and have had zero accumulator issues OR clutch pedal "feel" inconsistencies since. MT porsche's should be started in neutral anyway.
09-13-2018, 03:46 PM
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