4k rpm hesitation
07-16-2018, 06:34 PM
#16
Former Vendor
Thanks for the advice everyone! I think I'm starting to look at replacing the plugs and coils as a start to try to get rid of the misfires - fingers crossed that's the root cause. What sucks is the seller just replaced the plugs 3k ago. I've only had the car for about a month. But my guess is that the previous owners never drove it hard and babied it. My PPI went through without this issue and I even drove the car 400+ miles from SoCal to NorCal with some heated sprints on Hwy 5 
Anyways, I'm leaning on a DIY job just to learn more about the car...
Anyways, I'm leaning on a DIY job just to learn more about the car...Spark Plugs
https://www.warehouse33auto.com/cata...ion-Spark.Plug
Coils
https://www.warehouse33auto.com/cata...-Ignition.Coil
-Jason
07-16-2018, 06:46 PM
#17
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Good on 'ya, but I personally think the job is a pain in the a$$, especially without a lift.
I did the first plug change (since new) myself using jack stands. I took off the rear bumper and intercoolers, and taking my time it took about three hours, not including all the time it took to get one of the coil pack attach bolts out after someone at the factory had over torqued it and boogered up the allen head. I helped a friend change his plugs a couple of months later, and with two working it took a little less than two hours while taking our time (which may have included drinking a beer).
I've paid a shop to do the work ever since.
I did the first plug change (since new) myself using jack stands. I took off the rear bumper and intercoolers, and taking my time it took about three hours, not including all the time it took to get one of the coil pack attach bolts out after someone at the factory had over torqued it and boogered up the allen head. I helped a friend change his plugs a couple of months later, and with two working it took a little less than two hours while taking our time (which may have included drinking a beer).
I've paid a shop to do the work ever since.
07-17-2018, 12:54 AM
#18
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Good on 'ya, but I personally think the job is a pain in the a$$, especially without a lift.
I did the first plug change (since new) myself using jack stands. I took off the rear bumper and intercoolers, and taking my time it took about three hours, not including all the time it took to get one of the coil pack attach bolts out after someone at the factory had over torqued it and boogered up the allen head. I helped a friend change his plugs a couple of months later, and with two working it took a little less than two hours while taking our time (which may have included drinking a beer).
I've paid a shop to do the work ever since.
I did the first plug change (since new) myself using jack stands. I took off the rear bumper and intercoolers, and taking my time it took about three hours, not including all the time it took to get one of the coil pack attach bolts out after someone at the factory had over torqued it and boogered up the allen head. I helped a friend change his plugs a couple of months later, and with two working it took a little less than two hours while taking our time (which may have included drinking a beer).
I've paid a shop to do the work ever since.
3 hours by yourself? That doesn’t sound that bad given that shops want $1k for labor. From the couple of videos I’ve seen there are one or two cylinders that looks damn nearly impossible to get to. I’ve been in deep on some other jobs before where I got to the point of no return and then told myself I’d pay double to have someone “make the pain go away”. LOL.
07-17-2018, 01:27 AM
#19
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Unless something is real easy, AND I'm in the mood to tackle the job, I just take it to the shop these days. I don't live to work on my Turbo.
07-17-2018, 01:43 AM
#20
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I would agree with that.
You and I have had the same experiences. One of them that I had was the first time I changed the plugs on my Turbo, especially when the coil pack retaining bolt stripped out. I thought I was going to have to have my car towed to the shop to get it fixed.
Unless something is real easy, AND I'm in the mood to tackle the job, I just take it to the shop these days. I don't live to work on my Turbo.
You and I have had the same experiences. One of them that I had was the first time I changed the plugs on my Turbo, especially when the coil pack retaining bolt stripped out. I thought I was going to have to have my car towed to the shop to get it fixed.
Unless something is real easy, AND I'm in the mood to tackle the job, I just take it to the shop these days. I don't live to work on my Turbo.
07-18-2018, 02:26 PM
#22
Three Wheelin'
just changed my plugs was getting hesitation at 4k with no codes thrown, easy job, can be fiddly but once you work around path of insertion for the coil packs it's really a simple job and relatively easy. changed plugs and alls good, 9k miles. since you are throughing codes and lights your plugs are probably good and need new coils, I would just change both..
07-18-2018, 04:44 PM
#23
Former Vendor
07-23-2018, 01:19 PM
#24
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Oak - any advice or special technique you can share to get those hard to access coils out? Any particular tool to have ready for those tight areas? Sometimes a lot of time gets wasted because I don't have the right tools available. Thanks in advance!
07-23-2018, 02:31 PM
#25
Like Oak said, pretty easy job. Just time consuming taking the bumper and intercoolers out (which will be the most difficult part during this diy). Once that is done, getting to all the coils is easy. The only "particular" tool you need is an extension on your ratchet. Also, word of advice, make sure you hear a "click" when reconnecting the coils. I assembled everything back together, went for a drive and cylinder 6 started misfiring, had to take EVERYTHING back apart to realize the clip was not fully seated on the coil, FML.
Also, unplug the coils first before you remove the bolts. Will make it easier.
Since you will be removing ICs, I highly recommend doing a boost leak test afterwards. Every single time I remove ICs, and follow a boost leak test, I always get a leak even though I have upgrade GT2RS ICs with upgraded clips.
Also, unplug the coils first before you remove the bolts. Will make it easier.
Since you will be removing ICs, I highly recommend doing a boost leak test afterwards. Every single time I remove ICs, and follow a boost leak test, I always get a leak even though I have upgrade GT2RS ICs with upgraded clips.
07-23-2018, 02:39 PM
#26
Three Wheelin'
Pliny, for access it was easier to use a combination of 1/4" sockets with an adapter to my 3/8" the narrower extensions and all my 3/8" and 1/4" extensions and universal extensions made access and path of insertion easier and less binding on a couple of the coils with tight access, also I loosened a metal hose clamp that was in the way on the driverside. one coil on the drivers side was abit fiddly just take your time and work different angles and it will come out., I had more problems reattaching the electrical plugs to the coils the rubber seals would get pinched, some dielectic grease and a small 0-ring hook helped from pinching, it's quite easy just take your time and be patient.
07-27-2018, 01:20 PM
#29
According to this link, 22ft/lb on the plugs and 7 ft/lbs / 84 in/lbs on the coils. No thread locker or anti-seize on either would be my advice.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...coilpacks.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...coilpacks.html
07-28-2018, 05:03 PM
#30
As mentioned previously it's alot easier to remove the coil bolts and then pull the plug wires. For some reason the rennlist diy guide says it's easier to remove the plug wires first, for me it wasn't. Also heard this swap out can be done without removing the bumper... Well that was an hour wasted, unless you have tiny hands, not possible.. Yes, a lift makes everything easier..
