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In the "measure twice, cut once" mindset, verify these are the part we are talking about?
[Update: This is NOT the part we are talking about] OEM: 996.341.043.06, $219/ea at Sunset Tarett thrust arm bushing kit
There is an adjustable (TABKA01, $125/ea) and non-adjustable (TABKA02, $100/ea) Tarett bushing. Do we need the adjustable?
OK, looking more it seems that might not be the part John was talking about...
I think it is this one, which PET calls a 'Wishbone' and lists part number 996.341.053.16 (now 996.341.053.17), but Sunset calls a Lower Control Arm. $337 ea. at Sunset.
The LCA is #21 in that pic, #17 that you have labeled is the thrust arm. The thrust arm bushing is in the control arm.
This is why I always like to double check descriptions against actual part numbers! My PET diagrams list #17 as "Control Arm" rather than thrust arm, and #21 as "Wishbone", not lower control arm.
Paul, the names of a lot of these parts are not accurate in PET or interchangeable with others. Generally this is what you have based on the picture below. These are OEM Porsche Motorsport RSR parts and thus look slightly different from the street parts but you get the idea.
Front toe arms, aka "tie rods"
Front wishbones aka "Lower Control Arms - LCAs"
Rear wishbones aka "Lower Control Arms - LCAs"
Rear toe arms
Rear thrust arms
The items not pictured are the rear upper control arms, aka "dog bones".
Easy to see how those bushings are responsible for the fore/aft movement, now, and how some shot ones might allow a lot of it.
We were talking about the rears, but I'm guessing you'd recommend the same thing all around?
For a street car I'd just do the rear sold T/A bushings and call it a day. That's where all the weight is. With the solid bushings your rear tire wear will improve substantially.
btw, finally got under there this weekend while doing a leak test. That tab was all bent up from the tire hitting it. Ground it down pretty good till my dremel attachment decided it wanted to be at a 90 degree angle. So still need to go in and clean it up a bit
Bumping this back up as I just ordered new rear LCA's (aka. "wishbones") with Tarrett thrust bushings pressed into them. Thanks again to John and everyone else in this thread for their guidance.
One more question for the experts: while I'm in there, is it worth replacing the thrust arms with something like this? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-european...634104306~eps/ (which replaces the bushing highlighted below)
Here's a vid that makes the sales pitch, but I'm not sure that I'm sold based on this explanation:
I'd stick with OEM for a street car. Hard/sporty on a street car is going to get old. This is coming from someone who has the luxury of orange county roads.
Bumping this back up as I just ordered new rear LCA's (aka. "wishbones") with Tarrett thrust bushings pressed into them. Thanks again to John and everyone else in this thread for their guidance.
One more question for the experts: while I'm in there, is it worth replacing the thrust arms with something like this? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-european...634104306~eps/ (which replaces the bushing highlighted below)
Any thoughts? Should I stick with OEM for a street car?
The PU bushing is junk. Stick with OEM or the OEM Motorsport Thrust arms. There is no difference in ride quality as both have monoballs on them. The Motorsport arms have offset bushings (see attached picture) to give you anti squat geometry which is nice especially if you are using soft springs as it helps you put the power down coming out of turns. For street use, it really does not matter.
07-11-2018, 01:36 PM
