Posted my Turbo for Sale today
 

Plan on putting this on BAT with a fair reserve, it's a driver, but pretty clean, with only typical issues. If you guys know anyone looking for one, here it is. I'll leave it up until I'm done with the little stuff, and I'll probably get the accumulator replaced before posting on BAT.

I know, pics. I'll take some tonight and edit.

https://tulsa.craigslist.org/cto/6589832559.html

I'm interested in seeing pics and maybe the VIN / build sheet. Do you have a copy of the PPI?

Here's the PPI and simple photo, includes VIN. Please PM me for more details, I can take more photos.


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...1950425dfa.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...22521f6e5a.jpg

Bill:
Looks like you've got it priced accordingly. Most of those items on the PPI are minor. Probably the biggest is the spoiler hydraulics. You might want to check with Kevin as he has an economical fix for it. If you were keeping the car, I'd recommend the Rennkit, but if you can fix those hydraulics very inexpensively with Kevin's repair parts, I think that would be a good investment. New brake pads are cheap & easy also - decent pads are about $100 per axle and an easy DIY. Frankly, the rear pads at 6 mm are probably fine for quite a while, but I'd replace the front pads. Front brake rotors start at $80 each ($160 per axle) and also an easy DIY. Brake bleed is cheap & easy. Clutch accumulator is $130 and an easy DIY also. Plus, if you are running inexpensive HTR ZIIIs (like a lot of us guys do), then I'd also invest in a new set for the rear (2 rears at $170 each, free shipping right now and install at about $50 will only total about $400) Also, BTW, front HTR ZIIIs are only $115 each with free shipping, making a set of fronts with installation only about $280.
So, to add it up, figure:
$200 for Kevin's hydraulic spoiler repair parts (I think - I could be wrong, but I think that's about the cost)
$100 for front brake pads
$160 for front brake rotors
$20 for brake fluid for the bleed
$40 for genuine Porsche rubber bump stop
$130 for clutch accumulator
$400 for a set of rear HTR ZIII's
That puts you at just over $1,000 and a Saturday of your time to take care of every significant issue on the PPI. The rest of those items are minor appearance issues. I'm not sure how much actual return on investment you'll get from that $1,000, but I know for certain it will make the car sell much quicker. And who knows, maybe after you do that, you bump the price up to $39,750 and actually get $37,500 or $38,000 for it. My 2 cents worth. Best of luck with the sale. If I hear of anybody up here in KC looking for a 996TT, I'll send them your way.

A new Camry is $40k, this car is worth more all day long with the minor issues resolved.

Thanks for the input guy's. I've got some parts on order, I'll chew on the brakes and tires.

Bill, I would make the recommendation to put a little money into your car. The funny thing is after the brakes/tires/slave is fixed>>you might decide to keep the car.. If not ask more monies for your car to cover repairs..
Per KCattorney post my Ultimate Motorwerks cylinder repair is $248 per cylinder ram. Here is a recent thread..

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-turb...epair-kit.html

Small detail.. 911mhawks 996TT cylinders are shown pictured on my test bench pump under pressure.. They are sitting ready to go (LOL)

With regard to Kevin's hydraulic repair - here's the DL:

• Kevin has so many vocal advocates because he has earned them; his solutions are elegant, bespoke, and remediate factory design flaws as best as possible
  • fixing future problems is distilled down to nearly-free o-rings and an understanding of the system (which is simple) so his solution can be worked on my hands-on owners or shops with ease and for small amounts of monies
  • the weak points in the factory system design are fixed with his solution and will not fail in the future
  • this represents a solution for those wishing to keep the factory look and function
• My entire system is current with Kevin for rebuilding, and pricing is based on what needs to be remediated
  • Wing lifts - $248 each
  • Hydraulic pump - $695
  • Full system assembly and test - $100
  • This is what I'm having done - so a fully rebuilt, ready to bolt-in system for $1295

So - without know what your fail-point in the system is, it could be anywhere from $250 to $1300 to reconcile. I also learned that failed wing lifters can add undue stress on the hydraulic pump, so if a pump fails, it's possible that stress from the wing lifters alters the function of the pump, exposing it's weak point (a nylon drive-block that actuates the syringes and performs the push/pull function that pushes/pulls the pentosin in and out of the lifters cracks and the unit cannot function thereafter). Of course, that nylon block could fail despite perfect wing lifters as well. The o-rings on the piston heads that are driven by the nylon block also deform, which causes havoc in the system (this can still occur with Kevin's fix, but there will be no downstream impacts as he CNC's his own drive block - only the o-ring will need to be replaced and system re-bled).

Kevin's solution was my preference as I want to keep my car OEM+ and do not like the look of alternatives. Of course this is subjective, but as a buyer I would not consider a car with aftermarket hydraulics - even if they replace an imperfect system. Kevin's solution is 95% perfect in my mind, and if $1300 gets me 10, 15+ years (hopefully) of use before needing to be opened up for new o-rings, I'm more than satisfied.

Good luck with the sale, and I hope this information helps you make your decision or can be communicated to potential buyers so they know their options. You're car is a stunner and for $35K, there is NOTHING out there that is a better option, even if it didn't have a rear deck attached at all! :)

These cars are such bargains. It's mind boggling.

-Joe

If my spoiler ever gives me problems, I'll be going with Kevin for those very same reasons.

Do you have a hydraulic spoiler turbo?

I have the factory original spoiler on my 996 Turbo.

Really all the mechanical issues listed are fairly inexpensive and easy for DIY, with the possible exception of the spoiler rams.

In addition to mentioned above,

• Front and rear trunk/frunk struts are super easy to replace and cheap on Amazon.
• Headlight polishing is a bit of a PITA to do yourself but not too difficult. Most detailers will do them for ~$50 each. Common.
• Brake caliper clear-coat failure is also very common, and you can clean/mask/touch them up with some high temp clearcoat right on the car and they will look 5X better.
• Replacement front lip is ~$100 on ebay and an easy install.
• Missing wheel center cap? Come on... just buy one!
• Clutch accumulator: Just doing the clutch safety switch bypass (the one that requires you to depress the clutch before starting) and don't depress the clutch when the engine isn't running and your "clutch feel" issues will likely disappear. All it takes is a couple of spade lugs, a couple inches of wire, and a zip tie.

If you want to sell it as-is and not screw with it, someone who knows Turbo's will likely take it off your hands at or near your asking price, but you'll do MUCH better if you take care of most of the items prior to sale. Also, BAT really isn't a great venue for a car with a ton of little issues, but if you take care of most of these, they often sell for premium. They don't accept every car, though, so don't be surprised if you submit your car and they aren't interested.

Did you buy another one?

Another spoiler or another 996 Turbo?

Haha, I dusted off the turbo Tuesday night...on my way