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I will be bringing the Turbo in for the below items. Can anyone think of additional items to do while they are in there?
Air Filter
Serpentine Belt
Spark Plugs
Coils
Clutch
Flywheel
Clutch accumulator
Motor Oil and Filter change
Transmission Oil and filter change
Radiator flush
Fuel Filter
Check for boost leaks
If you are looking to do any performance upgrades, motor mounts and a transmission mount may be worth your while. Depending on miles a water pump if the engine is coming down would be a good idea. Like where your head is at though so far.
If you are looking to do any performance upgrades, motor mounts and a transmission mount may be worth your while. Depending on miles a water pump if the engine is coming down would be a good idea. Like where your head is at though so far.
I use tge RSS Tarmac series mounts. minimal NVH, but a great feel. You can also go with Wevo, or the 964 RS Porsche setup. I dont think you can really go wrong with any of the 3 for motor mounts. For the trans mount, I didnt want too much NVH, but just a little better feel so I went with the 997 Turbo stock mount. Its a replacement for ours and is very good. There are other mount bushings you can do but they add quite a bit of NVH from my understanding, however potentially even more feel. Below is where I got my RSS mounts. Alex shipped quick with no hassles.
-> Do you have a problem with the accumulator or just doing it as preventive maintenance? Are you sure your clutch slave is ok? If your pulling the transmission to do the clutch, that's the time to address the clutch slave or upgrade to the GT2-style clutch slave.
-> If your pulling the transmission to do the clutch, you might consider pulling the engine instead and pinning the coolant lines?
-> Not sure how many dealers do a real boost pressure test, ask them what exactly they do. For example, the factory manual specified boost test (from the boot where the air box plugs in) won't identify a #16 check valve failure (fairly common) because you are pressurizing both sides of the valve if you test from that location.
Other commonly needed parts at your cars age...
Replace, or check and replace:
Front differential fluid change
Cabin air filter
Motor mounts
Transmission mount
Front and rear hood struts
Check suspension bushings for play
Check shocks for leaks.
-> Do you have a problem with the accumulator or just doing it as preventive maintenance? Are you sure your clutch slave is ok? If your pulling the transmission to do the clutch, that's the time to address the clutch slave or upgrade to the GT2-style clutch slave.
-> If your pulling the transmission to do the clutch, you might consider pulling the engine instead and pinning the coolant lines?
-> Not sure how many dealers do a real boost pressure test, ask them what exactly they do. For example, the factory manual specified boost test (from the boot where the air box plugs in) won't identify a #16 check valve failure (fairly common) because you are pressurizing both sides of the valve if you test from that location.
Other commonly needed parts at your cars age...
Replace, or check and replace:
Front differential fluid change
Cabin air filter
Motor mounts
Transmission mount
Front and rear hood struts
Check suspension bushings for play
Check shocks for leaks.
Agree with the above. Did this stuff while my engine was out and a whole small book of extra stuff. If the engine is coming down, I would HIGHLY recommend the GT2 conversion. I always hated the clutch in this car....until O went GT2 conversion. One of the best things I have ever done for this car. So much feel and reliability were added.
i will do the cabin filter and front bumper removal and cleaning myself.
i will most certainly do the motor and trans mount/s.
i did the front and rear hood/engine struts.
i will have a brake flush done as well.
the accumulator is leaking bad. I hope it's not the slave as well. How do I go about a GT2 conversion? Can I just tell them to do it and they will know what I am talking about? These are Porsche guys doing the work so they should know their stuff. To me this conversion sound like a game changer and I am all for it.
its about $600 in parts, and if the transmission is out they can drill and tap the bell housing. I went the expensive BBI route....but looking back should have probably just went plain old OEM drill and tap. I wanted something reversible, but its so good ill never go back. BBI is working well for the first season of it being installed (after it was properly bled). Hopefully I get many more.
Just search 996 Turbo GT2 slave conversion and grab a mug
of coffee for some reading
the accumulator is leaking bad. I hope it's not the slave as well. How do I go about a GT2 conversion? Can I just tell them to do it and they will know what I am talking about? These are Porsche guys doing the work so they should know their stuff. To me this conversion sound like a game changer and I am all for it.
no reason to get into the clutch unless you suspect it's worn out. it's a relatively labor intensive job just to "look/see". as to, accumulator issues? if it's an indie, sure if experienced they could do a gt2 conversion, but a porsche dealership will not. an accumulator r&r alone however, is a minor repair and a cheap part. an hour and a $150 part, but disabling the clutch switch will eliminate most all issues with it. it likes to operate once and only once the hydraulic system is pressurized, not so much before. this is the cause of accumulator "issues".
so, how have you made the determination it's only that part leaking? have you ruled out the slave? fluid migration to the front reservoir under the frunk is a clue the slave has also gone south. eliminating the accumulator is not a "game changer" as such, it just eliminates the hydraulic "assist". if you want a non assisted clutch then consider the conversion. but if you want a trouble free hydraulically assisted clutch that is NOT prone to regular failure(s)? just remove the clutch switch at the pedal, requiring you to engage the clutch with engine off to start the car. problem solved. just remember to L/R the gearshift in neutral before you turn the key lol.
add: also, you mentioned mounts and others have mentioned their preferences. i use the wevo semi-solids paired with a relatively new oem 997 trans mount. this is a very taut combination with minimal added NVH though the semis add SOME NVH? it's great for a canyon or track car. for a full time street car, if trying to minimize NVH? any performance add ons result in usually commensurate "noise". so consider oem's as most "quiet" and anything else a bit "noisier" by degree. all suspension/drivetrain connected mods are a trade off, in one way or another.
I believe the clutch is toast. The car has a tune on it and it slips bad in 4th and 5th gear when you get on the gas.
I do have fluid in the frunk. However on my last 2001 I just had the accumulator changed an that fixed it. I hope is the same here. I have already spent some decent coin on the parts.
I believe the clutch is toast. The car has a tune on it and it slips bad in 4th and 5th gear when you get on the gas.
I do have fluid in the frunk. However on my last 2001 I just had the accumulator changed an that fixed it. I hope is the same here. I have already spent some decent coin on the parts.
sorry to hear of that. then as you already surmise, you need a clutch for sure, and then you're looking at the dmfw ( depending upon its remaining "mass"? ) so, yeah..I've had all manner of everything you mention replaced once or twice, at one time or another. so your slave has to be looked at and if you're going in for new clutch, then now's the time to consider your long(er) term goals for the car. ( primary usage" ) vis a vis oem or upgraded parts. i only mention this as you referenced going gt2 slave elimination conversion,.. and that's something you'd do ( presumably for a more track focused car, makes sense ) not necessarily a "street driven, oem is fine" car. but i have no issues with a gt2/3 non assisted clutch, per se. i just don't drive in "traffic" so accumulators that don't fail don't bother me, in the least. but there's your "game changer" lol. so, all things to consider. so you need an accumulator a clutch AND a slave ( my guess ). grab the parts yourself if you can and your shop lets you?, everyone here will know the best replacements and best prices, and good luck. all minor stuff, just part of the joy. OR? tap and drill
The car is and will only be for road use. I just don't see the need for the lines to be pinned. I drive very conservative until it's time to unleash the beast when needed. Houston is a flat, crowded "****hole country" so you need to travel at certain times of the day to get the best out of this car. (And that's what I do)
I will proceed with the motor/Tran mounts, but stand down on the GT2 clutch and pinning the lines.
A bad accumulator alone shouldn't allow the pentosin hydraulic fluid to migrate to and overflow the front reservoir. It's usually a bad check valve inside the clutch slave that causes that problem... So it sounds like you likely need a clutch slave.
If I were fixing a bad clutch slave without pulling the transmission, I'd be tempted to just install another OEM style slave, but if I was pulling the transmission anyway, I'd definitely go for the GT2 conversion.
It's a decent size job, even with the transmission already down. I'm not an expert on the job, but essentially you need:
GT2 slave (996.116.237.90).
GT2 clutch fork(997.116.08.690).
Studs to mount the slave.
Tap out the transmission case to accept the studs.
Modify the power steering pump to eliminate the clutch circuit.
Flush the crap out of everything to prevent cross contamination.
Set up the new clutch system with standard hydraulic fluid instead of the pentosin..
DOUBLE CHECK ALL INFO ABOVE! IT'S JUST FROM MY NOTES, NOT GUARANTEED ACCURATE!
01-21-2018, 09:26 PM
2001 Porsche Turbo Service- What else?
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