"02996ttx50

yes, one last bit, as you're an educated if not new to the platform owner? go with a new oem sachs clutch only adding or at least considering the *unsprung* oem g2 disc. it will better handle the *occasional* thumping/stomping that we might do. cost is similar yet it's a definitive ( if not minor improvement yet UNnoticed ) to the stock setup. the unsprung clutch disc handles some occasional "mishandling" a bit better than oem "sprung". that said, if you want to stay stock with everything? then do. either way you need a clutch, a slave, and accumulator at least, and could even need a flywheel. you won't know until you get to inspect the parts, or more commonly are TOLD about them.. and that's why a trusted shop is of paramount importance. if i didn't have a trusted person to help me with the car parts and labor?, i'd possibly have trouble affording my girlfriends. again, GL.

SeabrookPorsche

Rear main seal?

06Turbo

Road King

It's in the back of my mind too, I don't worry per sae but I do keep an eye on the coolant temp and whenever I detect a whif of coolant (in traffic) I definitely perk up. My car has 53K miles, but the clutch was replaced right before I bought it at about 40K miles, so despite my 1 bar tune (and exhaust) the clutch is doing great, especially since my car's not a commuter. So, I'm still waiting to either pin or weld the coolant lines when I do my first engine drop. I won't drop the engine to do this as preventative maintenance, but with the engine down for something else like a clutch it's a no brainer.

OP, if you're engine's coming out, please consider the advice here, it's a 1 time fix and those coolant lines are the achille's heel of our cars. Spent a little more dough and get them pinned/welded when you get the clutch replaced....you can thank us later when you never have one pop out and never have to worry about them.

Big Swole

I'm interested in that all you finally decide to do and what the total cost of parts / labor will be.

Post up afterwards if you don't mind sharing.

Hosewater2

Can you describe the improvement more? I have a stock clutch, for my taste the pedal is too soft and engages too far out.

Mtrboatvr6

Pump the clutch pedal about 20 or 30 times with the car off to get rid of the assist and you will get an idea of what it feels like without the assist (feels just a bit harder than the GT2). Mixed with that and the proper GT2 spring in the pedal replaced its a super linear feel that releases mid to low floor. Large traffic jams can be unpleasant, but my car is not a daily. It just allows you to better judge pedal feel. Keep in mind I also have the UMW GT3RS 4.0 clutch, lightweight flywheel and Sachs 764 pressure plate. The mod is not for everyone, but ot was just what my car needed.

SeabrookPorsche

What kind of cost are we talking about to pin the lines? My pocketbook is getting thin... I have not heard many problems with the lines unless you track the car.

911mhawk

You can easily spend as much as you want "while you're in there".
If the engine's out for other stuff, pinning is a half day to a day and $20 in drill bit, tap and screws with some JB weld for the seams if desired.
Well worth doing but while you're at it, all the hoses, vacuum lines, reservoir, radiators, on and on...
My advice would be to pick a budget you can afford and then add 50%.

Third-Reef

Water line pinning kit.

Third-Reef

Try again. i chopped off the critical part on the left

911mhawk

I used a very similar kit to this^^^
Don't need the angle attachment if engine's out.

"02996ttx50

the rms is basically an "o-ring" that is facing you once you drop the trans. it's a "must replace" item anytime you're dropping the box. as, there is NO reason to find an oil leak after buttoning it up, resulting from simply not replacing a 40 dollar seal.

as to coolant lines? I'm at 150k miles in this '03 with nearly every bolt on that made sense, running rwd @ 575 whp and i have zero concerns whatsoever about the coolant lines going, and would not do anything pre-emptively, myself. a bridge like that will only be crossed if i abruptly come to it. that said, i have witnessed a buddy's coolant line give way while toiling up a mountainous canyon road at a breakneck speed of 50 mph lol. so, waddya gonna do?

while it's de riguer for some? and even required now if tracking at most courses, given the isolated failures and potential for harm to those following closely behind you? the reality is, that the actual percentages of 996 turbo's that have had coolant failures is *relatively low*, measured against the numbers of 996 turbo's still on the road, absent coolant line failure. i'd let that *fact* be your guide. it's working for me.

i'd wait, and address extant issues first, and just drive. in other words, contrary to the supposition that coolant line "popping" is a foregone conclusion? it clearly, is not.

Warehouse33.net

I can help you out with the parts, email me a list.


-Jason

SeabrookPorsche