How many of you Daily Drive your TT thru the snow of winter?
#16
I know what salt does to a car, mo matter how much you try to protect it. I'd rather not just because of that!
I'd be happy to put studded rally tires on and go nuts on a frozen lake though.
I'd be happy to put studded rally tires on and go nuts on a frozen lake though.
#17
I've been thinking/talking about exactly this idea for years... I really need to get it done someday
I've been looking for the right second turbo to buy and turn into an all-weather rallye style car... Raised slightly on performance coil-overs, no lips, gravel flaps, underbody protection, all terrain tires. Running gear is pretty close to perfect for a build like this as it comes from the factory. Unfortunately even cosmetically challenged 996 turbo's are hard to find at a decent price...
Sort of a 996 Turbo creation inspired by Leh Keen's absolutely amazing air-cooled Safari 911 cars.
Would sure beat the crap over one of the overpriced, under powered, poorly engineered Land Rover Defenders selling for boatloads on BAT as a winter beater / light duty trail runner.
https://youtu.be/LWNgs0mvoew
Sort of a 996 Turbo creation inspired by Leh Keen's absolutely amazing air-cooled Safari 911 cars.
Would sure beat the crap over one of the overpriced, under powered, poorly engineered Land Rover Defenders selling for boatloads on BAT as a winter beater / light duty trail runner.
https://youtu.be/LWNgs0mvoew
#18
I "daily drive" (actually about 3 days a week) my car on a 200+ mile (total) commute, and while I generally don't go to the office if "inconvenient" levels of snow are forecast, I've been caught in pretty heavy white stuff many times.
Car seems to drive just fine, and that is even with a center-diff that I don't think is working 100% right.
Mind you, it does "take its toll"; after just one season of snow, my new turbo heat-shields have already started to rust pretty badly, and there is not a single metal fastener under the car that does not show corrosion. Oh, and I've have a couple of the "studs" that hold the splash-shields on, break-off due to corrosion where they go into the floor-pan.
My plan is to start swapping fasteners for stainless ones as I do various service tasks, and to find someone to weld-in (and reseal) the failed studs, but now that winter is with us again, all that will have to wait until the Spring.
Oh, and the sand/salt actually sand-blasted the paint off part of the inner lips of the fenders. I at least got around to repainting those areas before the snows hit...
Mind you, this commute is what I bought the car for, and I always prefer Road Warriors to Garage Queens, but as I said, "it takes its toll"...
Car seems to drive just fine, and that is even with a center-diff that I don't think is working 100% right.
Mind you, it does "take its toll"; after just one season of snow, my new turbo heat-shields have already started to rust pretty badly, and there is not a single metal fastener under the car that does not show corrosion. Oh, and I've have a couple of the "studs" that hold the splash-shields on, break-off due to corrosion where they go into the floor-pan.
My plan is to start swapping fasteners for stainless ones as I do various service tasks, and to find someone to weld-in (and reseal) the failed studs, but now that winter is with us again, all that will have to wait until the Spring.
Oh, and the sand/salt actually sand-blasted the paint off part of the inner lips of the fenders. I at least got around to repainting those areas before the snows hit...
Mind you, this commute is what I bought the car for, and I always prefer Road Warriors to Garage Queens, but as I said, "it takes its toll"...
Last edited by greencalex; 12-22-2017 at 03:15 PM.
#19
Race Car
Thread Starter
The more I look around I am leaning toward a 4S with a well sorted IMS/RMS record. I have had 4 of them and they were all great cars. Actually good MPG's and reliable. Plus I have tons of parts sitting around in the basement that I could use either on the TT or the 4S.
#20
I "daily drive" (actually about 3 days a week) my car on a 200+ mile (total) commute, and while I generally don't go to the office if "inconvenient" levels of snow are forecast, I've been caught in pretty heavy white stuff many times.
Car seems to drive just fine, and that is even with a center-diff that I don't think is working 100% right.
Mind you, it does "take its toll"; after just one season of snow, my new turbo heat-shields have already started to rust pretty badly, and there is not a single metal fastener under the car that does not show corrosion. Oh, and I've have a couple of the "studs" that hold the splash-shields on, break-off due to corrosion where they go into the floor-pan.
My plan is to start swapping fasteners for stainless ones as I do various service tasks, and to find someone to weld-in (and reseal) the failed studs, but now that winter is with us again, all that will have to wait until the Spring.
Oh, and the sand/salt actually sand-blasted the paint off part of the inner lips of the fenders. I at least got around to repainting those areas before the snows hit...
Mind you, this commute is what I bought the car for, and I always prefer Road Warriors to Garage Queens, but as I said, "it takes its toll"...
Car seems to drive just fine, and that is even with a center-diff that I don't think is working 100% right.
Mind you, it does "take its toll"; after just one season of snow, my new turbo heat-shields have already started to rust pretty badly, and there is not a single metal fastener under the car that does not show corrosion. Oh, and I've have a couple of the "studs" that hold the splash-shields on, break-off due to corrosion where they go into the floor-pan.
My plan is to start swapping fasteners for stainless ones as I do various service tasks, and to find someone to weld-in (and reseal) the failed studs, but now that winter is with us again, all that will have to wait until the Spring.
Oh, and the sand/salt actually sand-blasted the paint off part of the inner lips of the fenders. I at least got around to repainting those areas before the snows hit...
Mind you, this commute is what I bought the car for, and I always prefer Road Warriors to Garage Queens, but as I said, "it takes its toll"...
I never thought about those studs and the issues, but yeah I can see that being a prob. Think about spraying the entire underside in fluid film or something similar as it will help tremendously once you have everything replaced and new.
#21
Rennlist Member
You guys are my heroes.
#22
#23
Rennlist Member
The more I look around I am leaning toward a 4S with a well sorted IMS/RMS record. I have had 4 of them and they were all great cars. Actually good MPG's and reliable. Plus I have tons of parts sitting around in the basement that I could use either on the TT or the 4S.
#24
Rennlist Member
^^^^
I hope your not serious....
I hope your not serious....
#26
Rennlist Member
Sorry, that is absurd. Yup, there are some failure points, but to suggest that M96 engines shouldn't be driven in cold weather has got to be the ultimate chicken-little concern.
#27
1. These cars were designed and manufactured to be driven in a cold climate... Germany, which is actually farther north than you are. Not to mention being marketed in ALL parts of the world. The different expansion rates of the dissimilar metals are part of the design. Same as old air cooled VW engines. Nothing new with the M96 in that department and nothing that would be affected in cold weather.
2. Jake Raby is a fear monger who stirs up these types of things for business. It's just part of his business strategy.
#28
Race Director
That is funny right there.
1. These cars were designed and manufactured to be driven in a cold climate... Germany, which is actually farther north than you are. Not to mention being marketed in ALL parts of the world. The different expansion rates of the dissimilar metals are part of the design. Same as old air cooled VW engines. Nothing new with the M96 in that department and nothing that would be affected in cold weather.
2. Jake Raby is a fear monger who stirs up these types of things for business. It's just part of his business strategy.
1. These cars were designed and manufactured to be driven in a cold climate... Germany, which is actually farther north than you are. Not to mention being marketed in ALL parts of the world. The different expansion rates of the dissimilar metals are part of the design. Same as old air cooled VW engines. Nothing new with the M96 in that department and nothing that would be affected in cold weather.
2. Jake Raby is a fear monger who stirs up these types of things for business. It's just part of his business strategy.
Pretty ridiculous statement about jake raby. The m96 is a piece of junk every which way. While just about every engine porsche builds has serious issues, the m96 is by far the worst.
#29
#30
Race Director
Ok, but isn't it true?
Mag cases, pop off valves, headstuds, thermal reactors, valve guides, d chunk, head cracks, bore scoring, coolant tubes, cam shaft sleeves spinning, dlc coatings, etc etc.
I'd actually grant you that the 996TT is one of the least problematic, along with the new 9a1s (although they do score also).
Mag cases, pop off valves, headstuds, thermal reactors, valve guides, d chunk, head cracks, bore scoring, coolant tubes, cam shaft sleeves spinning, dlc coatings, etc etc.
I'd actually grant you that the 996TT is one of the least problematic, along with the new 9a1s (although they do score also).